Bilstein 5100 shocks

[Prolab]

Just got bilstein shocks 5100 installed on my GMC Sierra 2021. Installer asked if I wanted to level out my truck or keep stock oem height. I went with the leveled option and that ended up being a 1 inch lift in the front. Now I am a little worried that that may have thrown off my towing balance? Does anyone else have their trucks leveled and their experience with towing? I do have an equalizer 4 point hitch on my TT.
Thanks in advance for any insight

[Northofu1]

Originally Posted by Prolab

Just got bilstein shocks 5100 installed on my GMC Sierra 2021. Installer asked if I wanted to level out my truck or keep stock oem height. I went with the leveled option and that ended up being a 1 inch lift in the front. Now I am a little worried that that may have thrown off my towing balance? Does anyone else have their trucks leveled and their experience with towing? I do have an equalizer 4 point hitch on my TT.
Thanks in advance for any insight

I had them at oem height on my 2017 Sierra and I found it great with / without towing. I also used air bags for towing to help stiffen rear end for a 7450 lb GVWR TT.
The oem shocks on this truck do very well on a 10k lb GVWR 5er, but in time I will move to a Bilstein shock. Good luck

[Prolab]

Anyone get there front end raised to get it leveled? Experience with towing your TT with truck leveled?

[sourdough]

"Leveling" a truck used for towing isn't a good practice. The only thing I've ever figured out it's good for is "show" for the street queens. You need that offset if you are going to be putting weight in the back. Where I am every living soul has a boat of some kind; a bunch of them like to "level" their truck to make it look cool; when they hitch up the boat to come home in the evening their lights blind everyone that comes down the highway - with a little boat on the back and not an RV.

Bilsteins are great shocks and I've used the 5100s. IMO you need to put the truck back to stock if you are going to tow an RV with it or rebuild the suspension to eliminate the problems caused by "leveling" when towing.

[markcee]

The OEM rake is there to allow the truck to sit level if/when a load is placed on the rear axle. Leveling out the truck with the Bilsteins removes this factory rake so if nothing else, your headlights will be pointing skyward once you add the load.

There are a lot of recommendations to add airbags to remove the squat caused by truck leveling.

I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will chime in regarding any other potential pitfalls of towing with a leveled vehicle.

[flybouy]

Not sure how changing shocks can change ride height. The function of the shock absorber is self described. Altering the ride hieght requires either changing the spring length or spring perch location. Altering the geometry of the suspension alters its ability to function as it was designed by a group of engineers that have tested and designed it to perform.

As with most things in life trucks are a comprimise. Most manufacturers design the stance to hit a compromise between ride and carrying capacity while maintaining optimal steering, braking, etc. Optimizing the stance for looks will effect how it performs for the task for which it was designed.

[Prolab]

Thank you everyone for the replies. Rookie mistake on my part and will take back to installer to have them put back to stock height in the front. Hopefully labor isn’t the same as the install! Ouch

[notanlines]

Marshall, these are the ‘ride height adjustable’ shocks. The brand is probably the best, but the idea is bad.

[flybouy]

It's the spring seat that is changed as part of the strut assembly, not just the shock was my point.

[NH_Bulldog]

I had 5100’s installed front and rear and I was asked the same question about the front ride height. My truck has a 2” rake so the idea of leveling out the unloaded height was attractive. Ultimately I decided against it and kept it at stock setting since it sits level when loaded now and I didn’t want to have the front higher when towing and have to deal with resetting the entire WDH set-up, trips to the scale, countless hours of frustration only to find I shouldn’t have messed with the height in the first place. My lovely wife said “if it works, why screw with it and mess something up?”

[Prolab]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

I had 5100’s installed front and rear and I was asked the same question about the front ride height. My truck has a 2” rake so the idea of leveling out the unloaded height was attractive. Ultimately I decided against it and kept it at stock setting since it sits level when loaded now and I didn’t want to have the front higher when towing and have to deal with resetting the entire WDH set-up, trips to the scale, countless hours of frustration only to find I shouldn’t have messed with the height in the first place. My lovely wife said “if it works, why screw with it and mess something up?”

Well said!! Will be taking it back in and get it back to stock. 👍

[firestation12]

General motors trucks have torsion bars and incorporate a "key" with a set bolt that adjusts the torque on the torsion bar. The quick & cheap method to change ride height involves adding a few turns to the adjustment bolt. The 5100 shocks can be purchased in different lengths to accommodate higher than stock lift settings. Changing the ride height 1" isn't enough to require a longer shock. The problem with adding tension to the key to increase ride height beyond 1", changes the geometry (camber) which wil greatly shorten the lifespan of the Pitman arm. 2 of my close friends had their Pitman arms snap at about 80,000 miles. Note: when the Pitman arms breaks, a total loss of steering occurs. Cognito Motorsports has engineered a kit that includes a new upper A arm assembly, Pitman arm, and idler arm. As previous suggested by others, I agree with their advice to leave the factory setting alone to the torsion bar. Your rear suspension is designed to the truck to a near level position when loaded. Air bags can fine tune the truck's squat, but keep in mind air bags don't increase the truck's load carrying capacity. Is your truck a 2500 or 3500?

[Prolab]

Originally Posted by firestation12

General motors trucks have torsion bars and incorporate a "key" with a set bolt that adjusts the torque on the torsion bar. The quick & cheap method to change ride height involves adding a few turns to the adjustment bolt. The 5100 shocks can be purchased in different lengths to accommodate higher than stock lift settings. Changing the ride height 1" isn't enough to require a longer shock. The problem with adding tension to the key to increase ride height beyond 1", changes the geometry (camber) which wil greatly shorten the lifespan of the Pitman arm. 2 of my close friends had their Pitman arms snap at about 80,000 miles. Note: when the Pitman arms breaks, a total loss of steering occurs. Cognito Motorsports has engineered a kit that includes a new upper A arm assembly, Pitman arm, and idler arm. As previous suggested by others, I agree with their advice to leave the factory setting alone to the torsion bar. Your rear suspension is designed to the truck to a near level position when loaded. Air bags can fine tune the truck's squat, but keep in mind air bags don't increase the truck's load carrying capacity. Is your truck a 2500 or 3500?

Appreciate the input! Truck is a 1500. 1” lift was added for leveling.

[firestation12]

Technically nothing was added to your truck by the shock installer, the torsion bar key was just twisted a bit more. If you crawl under the truck behind the front wheel, then follow the thick rod rearward, you'll see the key and bolt. The installer tightened that bolt a little. It will take less than a minute to return the truck's front ride height to stock. Easy peasy.

[Prolab]

Originally Posted by firestation12

Technically nothing was added to your truck by the shock installer, the torsion bar key was just twisted a bit more. If you crawl under the truck behind the front wheel, then follow the thick rod rearward, you'll see the key and bolt. The installer tightened that bolt a little. It will take less than a minute to return the truck's front ride height to stock. Easy peasy.

Oh that would be great if everything doesn’t have to be taken apart again. Do you know if this is true for the bilstein 5100s?

[NH_Bulldog]

Originally Posted by firestation12

Technically nothing was added to your truck by the shock installer, the torsion bar key was just twisted a bit more. If you crawl under the truck behind the front wheel, then follow the thick rod rearward, you'll see the key and bolt. The installer tightened that bolt a little. It will take less than a minute to return the truck's front ride height to stock. Easy peasy.

I believe GM did away with torsion bars on the front suspension a long time ago (2007). The 2021 Sierra has a coil-over shock set-up (basically a strut assembly). On the current set-up, ride height is adjusted by setting the spring seat to add more pre-load to the system which raises the front end.

[Northofu1]

My Truck was a 2017, it had the ride height adjustable 5100's. The front's were not adjusted, the rear was adjusted 2", when the trailer was hitched it sat perfectly level.
On the height adjustable shocks there are/were grooves on the body and a circlip that fit into the preferred raise level.
No torsion bar adjustments on my vehicle. I would imagine they would release pressure, move clip on both sides and it would be done.

https://www.tdotperformance.ca/bilst...SAIEgKZ4PD_BwE

[Prolab]

Update: called shop and they said they have to remove them and readjust and alignment will be needed as well. Hoping this will prevent others from making this costly mistake.

[stockboro]

I tow a 7500lb RV with my 2018 Silverado 1500 and an Equilizer 4way and 1400lb bars. I also have a half ton Western plow for my driveway and office snow in the winter. The stock height of the 1/2 ton was too low for plowing so I put a 2" lift in the front with an aluminum spacer under the front shocks. Got the front end aligned and its been great ever since. Then we got the camper. The Equilizer WDH spreads out the weight and levels pretty well. Still a little high in the front, and never adjusted the lights, but then I don't have to use the high beams much . In November we made a 2600 mile trip from Michigan to Georgia and back and towed at 65 to 70 with no issues. I do have E rated Coopers on the truck and added Sumo Springs in the back for better stability. So..... I really don't think an extra inch in the front would be a problem.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Prolab

Update: called shop and they said they have to remove them and readjust and alignment will be needed as well. Hoping this will prevent others from making this costly mistake.

Rather than give them more $$ I think I'd add airbags to the rear with that $$ & go with it, then if it's an issue have them correct it.