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Old 08-13-2021, 10:50 AM   #1
Yareelohim
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The Weight Police - half wrong/half right

This is not meant to be offensive. I for one appreciate the concern people have for other’s safety and the term weight police is not being used in a derogatory manner. 

This is meant to tell you some of the weight police here are dead wrong, some are half right and some are really good. But thank you to all who have helped me research, investigate and experience this world for myself.

You can go here for the back story which prompted this post:
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=45015

In short I had some “weight police” attempt to discourage me and tell me I was “dangerous” “overloaded” “overweight” etc because I was towing a 34’ trailer with a 1/2 Ton Sierra Denali. After an entire season of towing, many trips, many miles and towing with 5 different trucks, including a F250 Diesel, I learned the 1/2 ton Sierra Denali with the 6.2l and electronic trailer sway control handles and tows my trailer better than the 5 other trucks I tried (including the F150 3.5 and the F250 6.7 Diesel). This experience is 100% contrary to the experience the weight police said I would have. I almost went and bought a 3/4 ton diesel. Glad I tested 5 trucks first over this summer.



Here is where you are half right and half wrong (not all of you).

1)The payload sticker on your truck (half WRONG).
“There is a payload capacity on the tire label sticker on your door jamb. This is the trucks payload capacity.” 

That is half wrong. The tire sticker is NOT the trucks payload capacity. The tire sticker is the payload the TIRES can support which may be less than what the truck can support. On my truck they put Passenger rated tires which gave me a payload of 1300 lbs. Per a discussion with GM if you change to LT or better tires you just increased tire payload to or above your trucks payload capacity.

My suggestion: stop saying the tire capacity is the truck’s capacity.
Half right = your truck’s payload capacity is limited by the payload capacity of the tires.
Half wrong = your tuck’s actual capacity is much higher than the tire limit. You can increase tire payload capacity with better ply tires.

2)Trucks ACTUAL Payload
As pointed out above. The tire label is NOT the truck’s actual payload as many suggest.
Payload as only some of you accurately point out is the trucks GVWR - the trucks current weight, which is higher than the tire payload label on these half ton trucks.

Suggestion: Ask for the trucks GVWR - GVW and then tell a person which tires they can switch to if they want to reach the trucks payload rating instead of being limited by passenger tire pay load ratings.

3)”You can’t tow a 34’ windsail with a 1/2 Ton truck”
This has been the main concern I have heard people say. A 34’ trailer is too long for a 1/2 ton truck. 
I am here to tell you I have towed with 5 different trucks this year, all on the same route in identical weather conditions going over the Oregon/California border. For those who know, that s a pretty steep grade at times.

I can confidently say, the 1/2 ton Denali wit the magnetic suspension and electronic ride control tows and handles better than any truck I have tried from 1/2 ton F150 3.5 EcoBoost up to 3/4 ton diesels, including the F250 6.7l. And yes the WDH was setup perfectly for each truck before going on the trips.

Half right = the 2021 Silverado 5.3l RST pulled the trailer fine but was the worst on handling.
Half wrong = my 2015 Sierra 1500 Denali 6.2 blows all those trucks out of the water and I have yet to find a truck, even a 3/4 ton which handles remotely as well as this truck. And stoping power is just as good as the 3/4/ ton trucks.

Suggestion: don’t assume because you or a friend had a bad experience it relates to all other scenarios. I could but any truck on the market right now (and almost did) but I am grateful I tested the 5 trucks I was considering before buying one because it led me back to the 1/2 ton some of you said couldn’t handle my trailer. Some of you were dead wrong on that point and I almost wasted a good amount of money.

4)Tongue weight: ”Your 10k lbs trailer has a tongue weight of XXXX”
Seriously, so many people got this dead wrong!

I know there averages for a bumper pull trailer are 10% - 12% tongue weight. Sometimes 15% in the case of toy haulers.
What I learned is many of the WP did not know what I found out. Manufacturers actually design and build the RV with the exact tongue weight they want and have that number readily available for you. You don’t have to assume this number anymore. They also design your trailer so when it’s fully loaded it won’t fluctuate more than 1% in either direction, seriously. This will be hard to believe for some, so you’ll have to call the manufacturer yourself or look up the specs on your trailer build sheet.

Half right = yes the tongue weight of a bumper pull will be between 10% - 15%
Half wrong = no you don’t have to assume 15%…the trailer has been designed, balanced and the storage limited to specific areas by the manufacturer to give you the exact tongue weight.

Suggestion: tell people to look at the tongue weight listed on their trailer build sheet instead of scaring them by saying, “You have a 10K lbs trailer so your tongue weight is going to eat up 1,240 lbs of your payload.” That is so wrong. See the next point.

5)Trailer weight vs tongue weight
The GVWR of my trailer was 9580 lbs. 
So many people told me, “You have a 10k lbs trailer so your tongue weight will be 1200lbs which will put you over on payload.”

Wrong. The dry weight of my trailer is 7170 lbs. The loaded weight with all our gear is 7580 lbs and weighed on the scales, the tongue weight = 760 lbs. Full tanks would only add another 500 lbs which would then put my tongue weight to 810 lbs. That is way off from what people were saying.

Half right = Yes a fully maxed out trailer would give you a max tongue weight
Half wrong = there is no way I could possibly add another 1500 lbs to my already fully loaded trailer carrying full tanks of water. There i just no room left.

Suggestion:
Don’t calculate based on the MAXIMUM weight. Be realistic. My trailer has a payload capacity of 2,410 lbs. At max I have only been able to add 910lbs to the trailer including full water tank.

6)Trailer Length = Wind Sail
“You are pulling a 34’ wind sail with a 1/2 ton truck…it will drag you all over the road.”

Half right = Total length of my 29DSFWE is 33’ 11”.
Half wrong = the box (i.e.) wind sail portion is 29’ exactly.

Suggestion: Clarify if you are meaning the box or tongue to bumper as my tongue and bumper are hardly a wind sail. Also, my 1/2 ton truck handles this 29’ wind sail better than the 3/4 ton trucks I have tested. But only my 1/2 ton handled this way. The 3/4 tons handled better than the other 1/2 tons I tested.

7)Increasing Truck’s Payload Capacity
“You can’t increase your payload, you need to buy a new truck”

As noted above, that is false. Per GM You can increase your tire’s payload up to the truck’s actual payload (GVWR - GVW). Remember that little tire sticker is not your truck’s payload, it’s the payload capacity of the tires which is almost always less than the trucks payload on a 1/2 ton truck due to using P rated tires instead of LT or better tires. 

Thats not all though. My particular truck included everything as the max tow trucks except for the HD rear springs. Per GM, if I only put HD leaf springs in the rear, I can increase my GVWR from 7100 lbs to 7900 lbs. I can add 800 lbs to my trucks payload for $250. But since I don’t need it, I am not going to. My truck even includes the 3/4 ton rear axles rated at 14K lbs, which one person couldn’t believe. Verified via the manufacturer again.

Half right = most 1/2 ton trucks might not be as lucky as I am with only having to swap HD rear springs to add an additional 800 lbs payload.
Half wrong = stating it can’t be done. Per the manufacturer it actually can be done on every truck and you can even have a new GVWR sticker mailed to you. The amount of money it takes for that will depend on each truck, for mine, it’s $250.

Suggestion: Research that before saying it can’t be done. It can be done and for very little money in some cases.


OVERALL SUGGESTION:
Please continue to educate people and call them to research/investigate. I have fully appreciated that myself. But some weight police need to do their own research before being so mater of fact. When someone asks you to explain something that seems wrong, don’t dig your feet in and try to win a battle. Research to see if you are wrong. In my case, there were some who were dead wrong and dead set I needed to buy a new 3/4 ton truck. That led me to borrowing/renting 3/4 trucks and realizing, my 1/2 ton handles and pulls better.


This is how I would start with a new person. 

“Give us your actual numbers and we can help (CAT scale highly advisable):
1)GVWR of your TV
2)Unloaded weight of your TV
= Payload Capacity TV

3)Tire Payload Sticker
=can get better tires if needed to reach TV payload capacity

4)GVWR of Trailer
5)Unloaded weight of Trailer
= Payload capacity of trailer

6)Manufacturer designed tongue weight

7)GCWR of TV

8)Here is how much you can add to your truck and/or trailer before reaching your max capacities.”

It is really that simple.

The entire narrative that follows is what can be disconcerting. The numbers won’t lie, but the narrative may be dead wrong or half wrong in some instances. 

Again, I appreciate so many who showed concern, educated me and pointed me in the right direction. About half on the other side seemed to be simply spitting hear-say and promoting a false narrative along the way.

P.S.
Best narrative I received was from Lewis B (some others were great too), 
“I think my concern from the start was how you were arriving at "payload" capacity on your truck. The only numbers that count are the yellow payload sticker on your truck as well as the GVWR, GCWR, FAWR, RAWR, trailer GVWR, tire ratings, etc.. Every truck will be different due to build and options. You seem to be on the way to discovering that and making decisions that work for your family. The ultimate proof of legality will be a truck scale and the ultimate proof of "drivability" will be the first time you are surprise passed by an 18 wheeler in a wind storm on the freeway. Many of the guys here (including me) offer comments based on BTDT.

Again, my compliments on your quest to "get it right" and seek aid from others. Hopefully, you will interpret the fact that I am sitting here late at night talking about your RV as my desire to see you be successful and your family have a safe and comfortable RV adventure. Even though some may not get it, that's my way of saying "welcome”.”
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Old 08-13-2021, 11:58 AM   #2
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Johnathan, I for one appreciate the trouble you went through to post your latest thoughts on your rig. You were polite, concise, non-condescending, well, that's about all I can say. There is almost nothing in your post with which I agree, however I am also convinced that nothing I say, nothing I quote and no illustrations I post will change your mind, nor anything in your train of thought.
I stayed out of the original discussion. People every bit as knowledgeable as me took the side opposing yours. I sincerely hope you continue to post on this forum, but I hope AND pray you don't give any of the above advice to any new members. I don't mean for it to sound crass, but, well, it would be dangerous info to try to spread.
I know you're a Chevy man, and that 1500 is a towing beast, maybe the best on the highway, but I don't believe you are looking at your situation objectively.
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Old 08-13-2021, 11:59 AM   #3
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I'm getting some popcorn and beer. For this discussion:
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Old 08-13-2021, 01:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
Johnathan, I for one appreciate the trouble you went through to post your latest thoughts on your rig. You were polite, concise, non-condescending, well, that's about all I can say. There is almost nothing in your post with which I agree, however I am also convinced that nothing I say, nothing I quote and no illustrations I post will change your mind, nor anything in your train of thought.
I stayed out of the original discussion. People every bit as knowledgeable as me took the side opposing yours. I sincerely hope you continue to post on this forum, but I hope AND pray you don't give any of the above advice to any new members. I don't mean for it to sound crass, but, well, it would be dangerous info to try to spread.
I know you're a Chevy man, and that 1500 is a towing beast, maybe the best on the highway, but I don't believe you are looking at your situation objectively.
Thanks. This is a little of what I am addressing.

You say I’m not being objective.

How could I be more objective than testing every truck on the market that would fit the bill for my trailer? That’s what I am doing because I can buy any truck on the market and want the best for my situation.

Subjectively I limited the search to GM, RAM and Ford 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and 1 ton (still testing)

I also took all the info WP gave and then I went to the actual engineers of the manufacturers and either confirmed or denied the information that was given to me. To disagree with my findings is only disagreeing with the very people you claim to be quoting. I was quite surprised by their responses.

That’s is pure objectivity.

You are right. I am trying to make sure I am not condescending at all. Hopefully people will hear.
Debate for me is about hearing and finding truth, not making a point. If you think I’m wrong on anything I stated, point it out and show why. Just don’t misquote me.
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Old 08-13-2021, 01:03 PM   #5
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POST IS TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO LONG.

2nd, who cares if the term weight police is derogatory
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Old 08-13-2021, 01:20 PM   #6
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What I read (bullet numbers are not meant to match, save your flames):

1) Don't tell people to check the sticker (which is precisely GVWR - curb weight), instead, use the GVWR less the curb weight.

2) Don't assume 12% is your tongue weight- use the scale and look, my tongue weight is about 12%!

3) Don't trust the specs on your factory truck, I have a highly and unrealistically customized truck and it's great! If y'all don't want to drastically customize your truck, then whatever. (edit- could be that I'm just unfamiliar with magnetic suspension as standard equipment, but it sounds dang fancy for a hauling machine)

4) Nevermind that everyone here starts the conversation with "fill out your profile and let us know your exact situation," you should really take folks' exact situations into consideration before giving advice!

Huh.
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Old 08-13-2021, 01:23 PM   #7
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Re read it because you read that all wrong. Definitely not what I said nor could you quote me saying a single thing you just said.

My truck is factory BTW, not customized one bit.

Again, prime example of the intent of this post.
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Old 08-13-2021, 01:33 PM   #8
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Where did you get the "F250 Cummins" you tested with that you mentioned in that VVVEEEEERYYY long post??
I would also agree you are 1/2 right about that payload being for the tires which are typically the weak point, but if you upgrade to heavier tires you will not get a new payload sticker for the door jamb so if any weights are legally contested you will still be subject to that original sticker weights.
Also if you get an actual weight of your truck camp ready & subtract that weight from the truck GVWR I'd bet it would be very close to what that fictional payload sticker states.
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Old 08-13-2021, 01:39 PM   #9
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Sorry it was so long, I even tried to condense it.
Most of these were tow rigs I got to borrow from friends/family. All were 2019-2021 models. The F250 is currently second on my list to buy. I’ll be testing the 2021 GM 2500 6.6 GAS next. Have a feeling I may like that best for my situation if it handles well.

The F250 diesel is way more truck than I need for my loaded out 7500 lbs trailer.

BTW, you have offered me some great input on the past. So thank you for that.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:09 PM   #10
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As far as I know, those of us that “wear the badge” of weight police have always told the person asking to use the federal sticker in the drivers door that lists the CCC, it says something to the effect that “occupants and cargo should not exceed xxxxpounds” then they are told to go to the scales loaded as they would for camping…subtract THAT number from the GVWR ( occupants and cargo number) to arrive at the AVAILABLE payload left.

I don’t see where that is anything but 100% correct. As far as tongue/kingpin weight, us badge wearers will use a percentage of the trailer GVWR with the caveat to again, visit your favorite scale for actual weights. This is again 100% correct. Tell me where I’m wrong.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:13 PM   #11
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Texan…
Just saw your edit about weight/stickers.

I verified that too. At least in California there is no such thing as being liable for over the tire payload sticker. Not as it relates to insurance, California highway patrol, or department of transportation.

This ONLY applies to DOT certified trucks. This is why RV’s never go through a weigh station on the highway, only commercial DOT trucks go through there.

BUT you can also have new stickers ordered and mailed to you very easy if you are concerned about it. Including if you change the GVWR of your vehicle.

Verified. It’s pretty simple.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
As far as I know, those of us that “wear the badge” of weight police have always told the person asking to use the federal sticker in the drivers door that lists the CCC, it says something to the effect that “occupants and cargo should not exceed xxxxpounds” then they are told to go to the scales loaded as they would for camping…subtract THAT number from the GVWR ( occupants and cargo number) to arrive at the AVAILABLE payload left.

I don’t see where that is anything but 100% correct. As far as tongue/kingpin weight, us badge wearers will use a percentage of the trailer GVWR with the caveat to again, visit your favorite scale for actual weights. This is again 100% correct. Tell me where I’m wrong.

And I would agree with you (and appreciate your response).

If you read my original post you’ll see not everyone wearing the badge did what you just did, but they were petty adamant about it. It’s not just here. It’s on other forums as well.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:26 PM   #13
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You obviously have spent a lot of time/effort to state your case however you have made a lot of unsubstantiated claims. A lot of your claims I completely disagree with. I won't go into paragraph after paragraph to dispute your claims as it serves no purpose. I wish you well and safe travels.

FWIW, I will continue to urge new owners to weight their rigs and find out what the reality of their choice in truck and trailer is in relation to actual weights vs advertised weights.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:31 PM   #14
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That’s exactly what I am advising here, I think we are in agreement on that.

I can substantiate and provided evidence each point I made but didn’t because it’s already too lengthy.
My research is based on the replies from the engineers of the manufacturers and the legal authorities in my state. That’s all.

Oh…and me testing my trailer with all the current model trucks.

I’ll add. I myself and this post are actually in agreement with pretty much everything you have said to me in prior posts. You gave great info that didn’t disagree with and still don’t disagree with. I believe so at least. I may have to re read them.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yareelohim View Post
Texan…
Just saw your edit about weight/stickers.

I verified that too. At least in California there is no such thing as being liable for over the tire payload sticker. Not as it relates to insurance, California highway patrol, or department of transportation.

This ONLY applies to DOT certified trucks. This is why RV’s never go through a weigh station on the highway, only commercial DOT trucks go through there.

BUT you can also have new stickers ordered and mailed to you very easy if you are concerned about it. Including if you change the GVWR of your vehicle.

Verified. It’s pretty simple.
Well a good accident personal injury lawyer will certainly disagree with this thought.

Good luck on getting new sticker from GM with the correct VIN and a different (higher) GVWR.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:50 PM   #16
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Well I for one learned something. Our expert (sorry I couldn't read the entire tome that written) did point out that Ford is now using a 6.7L Cummins engine. About time they dropped the International now Ford diesel engine! I want a straight six Cummins with the fancy 10 speed! Well, anyway, someone seems to have more hands on their time than I do bwhahahaha Good luck Mr. OP!
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Old 08-13-2021, 03:03 PM   #17
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I'm going to just put this out there for you to read....and you can believe it if you chose to, or you can ignore or argue against it. And this statement pertains to a truck with OEM tires, suspension, etc, in other words...the way the truck comes from the factory.

The order of progression for overloading is this...
1 GVWR of the truck minus the curb weight of the truck is going to equal the available payload remaining for the truck. So, if you go over that number, the CCC or payload, you have overloaded the truck. You have also exceeded the GVWR of the truck.
2 Next in line in the overload progression is the Axle Weight Ratings.
3. The next in line is the tire load capacity ratings when the tires are fully inflated to the cold psi as stated on the safety sticker.

Adding or changing to a heavier load capacity tire will not change the payload capacity of the truck. Changing out leaf springs or adding air bags will not change the payload capacity of the truck. Putting a heavier duty axle will not change the payload capacity of the truck. The sticker on the door is the gospel as far as the CCC or payload of the truck. And, that CCC/Payload number is a moving target because of things being added to and or taken away from the truck, weight wise. So what it boils down to is this, you payload capacity should really be express as "available payload at a particular moment in time" and the way to know what that is......GVWR minus what the truck weighs right now.

Yareelohim quoted:
The tire sticker is the payload the TIRES can support which may be less than what the truck can support. On my truck they put Passenger rated tires which gave me a payload of 1300 lbs. Per a discussion with GM if you change to LT or better tires you just increased tire payload to or above your trucks payload capacity.

That is 100% wrong, and you got some terrible information from someone at GM.

There are so many inaccurate statements in your post that I cannot and will not go through it point by point, but it is painfully obvious that you have been led astray somewhere along the line.

Good luck and hopefully some day you will figure it all out, but as for now, Nope!
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Old 08-13-2021, 03:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrated View Post

Adding or changing to a heavier load capacity tire will not change the GVWR of the truck. Changing out leaf springs or adding air bags will not change the GVWR of the truck. Putting a heavier duty axle will not change the GVWR of the truck. The sticker on the door is the gospel as far as the CCC or payload of the truck. And, that CCC/Payload number is a moving target because of things being added to and or taken away from the truck, weight wise. So what it boils down to is this, you payload capacity should really be express as "available payload at a particular moment in time" and the way to know what that is......GVWR minus what the truck weighs right now.
There fixed that for ya.

The payload capacity as you mentioned is variable every 10 pounds in or on the truck is -10 from the payload.

What we mere mortals can't change (without a lot of money anyways) is the GVWR as stated on the FMVSS.

If I remove the 40 pound factory running boards and 100 pound factory tail gate then I actually increase my payload as that is factory equipment removed the truck. (NOTE: if you have to resort to that tactic to get the payload you need, you need a different tow vehicle!) I'm just providing an example.

Adding additional springs, heavier tires and axles actually reduces payload because the parts are heavier than the stock OEM parts.

Just run it across the scale before and after and the math is the proof.
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Old 08-13-2021, 03:27 PM   #19
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To any traffic cops I worked with or when I did traffic enforcement. Overweight tickets by myself and others in Oregon were and are issued for overweight vehicles and can be on any vehicle. I once wrote an overweight ticket on a utility trailer carrying candles, that was after a injury crash. DOT enforcement is a whole different thing.
When I was with OSP each fall for years we would work wood cutters for overweight and weighted RVs if we wanted at the same time at a scale station.
But I will not go through all pages of the first posting. Just a question about your scale weights.
Did you check the empty trucks axle wts. I seen a post with the front and rear axle wt. with trailer connected. That added weight on the rear is important but so is the lesser amount of the front axle wt. Those two added together will give you a better real tongue wt. I did not see the truck empty axle wts.
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Old 08-13-2021, 03:39 PM   #20
Yareelohim
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Far Northern California
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by xrated View Post
I'm going to just put this out there for you to read....and you can believe it if you chose to, or you can ignore or argue against it. And this statement pertains to a truck with OEM tires, suspension, etc, in other words...the way the truck comes from the factory.

The order of progression for overloading is this...
1 GVWR of the truck minus the curb weight of the truck is going to equal the available payload remaining for the truck. So, if you go over that number, the CCC or payload, you have overloaded the truck. You have also exceeded the GVWR of the truck.
2 Next in line in the overload progression is the Axle Weight Ratings.
3. The next in line is the tire load capacity ratings when the tires are fully inflated to the cold psi as stated on the safety sticker.

Adding or changing to a heavier load capacity tire will not change the payload capacity of the truck. Changing out leaf springs or adding air bags will not change the payload capacity of the truck. Putting a heavier duty axle will not change the payload capacity of the truck. The sticker on the door is the gospel as far as the CCC or payload of the truck. And, that CCC/Payload number is a moving target because of things being added to and or taken away from the truck, weight wise. So what it boils down to is this, you payload capacity should really be express as "available payload at a particular moment in time" and the way to know what that is......GVWR minus what the truck weighs right now.

Yareelohim quoted:
The tire sticker is the payload the TIRES can support which may be less than what the truck can support. On my truck they put Passenger rated tires which gave me a payload of 1300 lbs. Per a discussion with GM if you change to LT or better tires you just increased tire payload to or above your trucks payload capacity.

That is 100% wrong, and you got some terrible information from someone at GM.

There are so many inaccurate statements in your post that I cannot and will not go through it point by point, but it is painfully obvious that you have been led astray somewhere along the line.

Good luck and hopefully some day you will figure it all out, but as for now, Nope!

You just correctly reiterated exactly what I already said. But then you quoted and said you don’t agree with what we both agree on.

You need to re read that.

1) Payload Capacity of the truck
And
3) Payload Capacity of the tires

…are two separate payloads.

Per GM, if you want to reach the payload capacity of the truck, increase the payload of the tires by going from factory Passenger tires to LT rated tires.

Per GM, you are now limited to the higher capacity of (1) the truck and no longer limited the lower capacity of (3) the tires.

See…you said the same thing I did. You even said the same thing GM did. And you agreed.
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