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Old 07-05-2021, 02:08 AM   #1
Old_Stevenick
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Crossfire Bullet Water Pump inlet, hot water bypass

Can anyone tell me where my water pump is and how to install an inlet valve to it for winterizing?

Same question regarding a hot water bypass.

I'm starting to plan for a few months from now!

1650EX Crossfire Bullet Hybrid TT.
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Old 07-05-2021, 06:18 AM   #2
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Look at the location of your water fill on the outside. Many times the pump is just inside the camper hidden behind a blank panel. Do you have any blank panels near where the water tank filler is located and if you do, there will be a couple of screws holding the panel in place. I am sure an owner of your model will come along and help out with more specifics.
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Old 07-05-2021, 06:26 AM   #3
flybouy
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Turn the water pump on and follow the sound. As George stated, typically behind a panel screwed in somewhere, could be in the pass thru or in the base of a cabinet. As for instructions, if you buy a "kit" it should come with instructions. The instructions would vary depending up[on what type koit you are installing.

Are you sure it didn't come from the factory with the bypass and pump winterizing valve?
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Old 07-05-2021, 06:53 AM   #4
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If your trailer has a FloJet pump, all you need is a "pump inlet fitting" and a length of clear 1/2" vinyl hose. Slide the hose onto the barb end of the fitting locate your water pump, pull the blue tab and disconnect the inlet fitting, slide your "homemade winterization kit" into the pump and close the blue tab. Put the end of the hose in a gallon jug of antifreeze and turn on the pump. "You're winterizing your trailer for about $5.

You can buy the fitting at any RV dealership for about $2 and the vinyl hose at Home Depot or Lowe's "by the foot".

Take the money you save by not buying a $19.95 "winterization kit" and buy a "snap on FloJet pump strainer" to protect your pump, faucet valves and water heater outlet valve from being damaged by the construction debris that is in your fresh water tank..... It's the "best $8 you can spend" to protect your water system...
https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-017403...5496421&sr=8-5
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Old 07-05-2021, 07:44 AM   #5
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What is the general opinion of compressed air winterizing vs. pumping Anti-freeze through the system?

I live in New England, it will be very cold stored outside.
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Old 07-05-2021, 08:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Stevenick View Post
What is the general opinion of compressed air winterizing vs. pumping Anti-freeze through the system?

I live in New England, it will be very cold stored outside.
MY (everyone has THEIR) general opinion is this:

Use compressed air to remove as much water as possible. This helps prevent dilution of the antifreeze when you introduce it to the system.

Then use RV antfreeze as an "ADDITIONAL PREVENTATIVE MEASURE" to assure the water system is fully protected...

Some will suggest that compressed air is all that's needed (but is there still water in low spots)

Some will suggest that RV antifreeze is all that's needed (but is there enough water in the system to dilute the antifreeze, reducing its effectiveness

Many people "fret over the high cost of RV's" and the "poor construction of RV's"...

For me, it's still an investment and "my money deserves the best protection I can provide for it"....

So, I use both, compressed air followed by RV antifreeze... So far, I've made it through over 30 years without any "freeze damage".... Before that, back when RV plumbing systems were "flare fittings on copper tubing" I rebuilt the entire plumbing system every spring.... It's much cheaper to pay $5 for two gallons of "pink stuff".

Works for me, YMMV.
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Old 07-05-2021, 08:36 AM   #7
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I built an air chuck to water hose adapter, which I think you can also purchase on amazon and after draining everything as much as it will drain and running the water pump until it is just air coming out I put 40 PSI into the system and open up valves and low point drains one at a time.

After several passes of going around the trailer and opening things and no more water coming out I call it good.

Don't forget the black tank flush inlet, outdoor shower or the toilet flush valve.

This winter, when we had our "snowmagedon" and it got down to -2, I had no issues when I opened the trailer up for guests for memorial day. I have used this method since we bought the trailer in 2015.

YMMV, but it works for me here in North Texas.

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Old 07-05-2021, 08:37 AM   #8
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For me I also use compressed air then pump in the pink stuff (do not fill freshwater tank or water heater with antifreeze, just drain.). I use an air regulator set to 30 psi on the city water connection with the low point drains and all hot and cold faucets open. Then I pump in the antifreeze via the fresh water pump. Here winter temps can vary widely. One year the Chesapeake Bay froze over significantly, other years we've hardly dipped down to freezing. For the cost of two gallons of antifreeze it's cheap insurance. It's worked for me for many, many years.
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Old 07-05-2021, 09:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-O-B'03 View Post
I built an air chuck to water hose adapter, which I think you can also purchase on amazon and after draining everything as much as it will drain and running the water pump until it is just air coming out I put 40 PSI into the system and open up valves and low point drains one at a time.

After several passes of going around the trailer and opening things and no more water coming out I call it good.

Don't forget the black tank flush inlet, outdoor shower or the toilet flush valve.

This winter, when we had our "snowmagedon" and it got down to -2, I had no issues when I opened the trailer up for guests for memorial day. I have used this method since we bought the trailer in 2015.

YMMV, but it works for me here in North Texas.

-Brian
Brian,

The difference is that where Old_Stevenick lives, that -2 you experienced is going to be the warmest part of the day for weeks, maybe months on end... Entirely different climate considerations in Texas and in New England.
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Old 07-05-2021, 09:34 AM   #10
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The OP lives in Massachusetts. It gets COLD. I use compressed air here in South Texas and add anti-freeze to pee traps to keep them from freezing. IF I lived up in the frozen north I would consider John's slightly more complicated protection against freeze. Compressed air plus anti-freeze.
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Old 07-06-2021, 02:39 AM   #11
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Yes it gets cold here, not quite as cold a -2 being the high for weeks on end though lol!

I will go the full route.

However I can't find my water pump access. Under the dining table seat, which is right near the water inlet, is storage, so it might be under the front bed and I don't see how to get to it. I'll keep looking.

Anyone know this model and the pump location?

Also I can't find where the hot water tank bypass might be.

The operating manual is so generic to all models it's not helpful.
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Old 07-06-2021, 05:03 AM   #12
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Turn on the pump, follow your ears then start feeling panels for vibrations. There will be an access panel held in by a couple square head scews. It may be covered in carpet so look around. The water heater bypass will be right on the water heater facing the interior. Go outside and locate the water heater access panel with the exhaust screen. Note where it is, i.e. next to the door, or about 2' past the window, or other landmark. Go inside and opposite of where you found that access door outside. Look for a removeable panel. It will be there and it will have screws to remove it. It could be in a kitchen cabinet or under a bunk, or under a bed. Just look and you can find it.
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Old 07-06-2021, 06:38 AM   #13
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I'll be out there exploring soon. Right now the battery is not hooked up as I'm installing and wiring the second battery this afternoon when it arrives.

After that my ears and eyes will be my guides.
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Old 07-06-2021, 07:52 AM   #14
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What Marshal said. The pump will be very near the water inlet hook-up. The water heater by-pass is right on the Water heater intake. Take your phone and take a picture of how the valve looks now so you can remember in the future which way is "on".
I agree with John. I live in the high rockies and both air and pink stuff are the only thing that keeps me from having to fix broken plumbing in the spring.
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Old 07-06-2021, 08:44 AM   #15
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Looking at your floorplan and an exterior photo of the roadside of that model, I'd suspect that the water heater bypass valve is located in a compartment built into the rear dinette seat. It may have a "false top" or it may have an access panel on the side of that compartment....

The water tank is probably located on the roadside front part of the trailer, just forward of the front dinette seat. There may be a panel on the extreme front of the dinette seat base to access the water pump, or it may (hopefully not) require you to crawl into the front storage compartment, around the fresh water tank to get to the water pump.... Let's hope access is through the base of the dinette seat.
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Old 07-07-2021, 09:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Brian,

The difference is that where Old_Stevenick lives, that -2 you experienced is going to be the warmest part of the day for weeks, maybe months on end... Entirely different climate considerations in Texas and in New England.
Hi John,

Yep, which is why I included the last sentence in my reply

I figure any remaining water would have frozen and done its damage at the -2 over-night, not to mention the 4 days/nights of below freezing.

My buddy, that lives in northern Arkansas, uses the same method and has had to replace his toilet flush valve a couple of times. Obviously the method does not work for all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-O-B'03 View Post
YMMV, but it works for me here in North Texas.

-Brian
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Old 07-15-2021, 06:27 AM   #17
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In our Bullet Crossfire, to get to the water heater bypass we have to lift the mattress off the bottom bunk and raise the plywood underneath it. The bypass is in the back corner of the compartment.
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Old 07-15-2021, 06:38 AM   #18
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I have only used air for the past 15 years and have never had an issue. As others have stated, make sure you get all the water out of all places. If done correctly, I fell it is as good as adding the pink stuff. One good thing is you have no taste from the pink stuff in your water, this is my wife's number 1 item!! I do put antifreeze down each of the drains and toilet.
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:02 AM   #19
Old_Stevenick
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Quote:
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I have only used air for the past 15 years and have never had an issue. As others have stated, make sure you get all the water out of all places. If done correctly, I fell it is as good as adding the pink stuff. One good thing is you have no taste from the pink stuff in your water, this is my wife's number 1 item!! I do put antifreeze down each of the drains and toilet.

Being in MN that's good to hear, you have to have as cold winters as we do here in the Northeast.

To only use air I would not need to bypass the hot water heater, nor access the water pump inlet. Is that correct?

Just hook a compressor up to the city inlet?
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:38 AM   #20
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You have to be careful with air pressure and use your Valterra (or other brand) water regulator or an adjustable air pressure regulator.
I am squeamish about not adding (for potable water systems) antifreeze. The one time you slip up, will cost you in those Northern climates. The pink stuff is way cheaper than finding and fixing a leak in the spring. JMO
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