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03-13-2021, 08:49 AM
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#1
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Ridgefield WA
Posts: 190
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Adding a battery disconnect
I normally remove our batteries for the off season and keep them on a Battery Tender, but during other periods of non-use I've been disconnecting the the batteries from the post.
I'd like to add a battery disconnect, since our Passport didn't qualify for such an extravagance.
I've looked at some different types, and some require a hole cut into the chassis to mount the switch, and I won't do that.
What are my options?
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03-13-2021, 09:04 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,353
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This one is very popular and I have installed countless number of them.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/MARINCO-7...98a2a5054a4ce0
Argument is positive or negative lead...Manufacturer uses the positive.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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03-13-2021, 09:23 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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If you want a "simple and easy to install" BCO switch, Harbor Freight sells a switch that mounts on either the positive or negative battery terminal with the switch built into it. Remove the battery cable, install the device, attach the battery cable to the device and operate the switch. It's $6.99 at HF https://www.harborfreight.com/batter...tch-97853.html
If you get into the argument of "positive or negative" and where to install it, just buy two ($14) and install one on each terminal on the battery.....
HF also sells the "red key type" BCO switch for $7. If you decide to go that route, you'll also need to buy a "gray plastic utility box" and an extra battery cable (or cut your current one and solder/crimp terminals on the cut ends). Then you'll need to locate a place to install the box with the BCO switch in it. That location could be "on the battery box lid" or close to the battery location.
It's easier to just install the "battery terminal device", then as you use it, determine if it is "fancy enough for you" or whether you want to indulge in a more elaborate BCO switch system. The total investment is $7 and about 10 minutes.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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03-14-2021, 03:17 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Suwanee
Posts: 414
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Thank you for this. I've been disconnecting our cables after every use. Didn't realize there were options on the market.
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03-14-2021, 06:07 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
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X2
This is the switch I installed on our 5er, and loved it would flip to off when we got home from a trip, and two months later batteries still showed a full charge.
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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03-14-2021, 07:18 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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The reasoning behind using the negative post for the cutoff is simple... no ground / no power flow...
If you choose the positive post just be sure to put the switch before any connection to a terminal. This is why there are parasitic draws even with the factory installed cutoff switches.. by law they cannot completely disconnect power from some safety features.
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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03-14-2021, 07:44 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 822
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Also, obviously, if you use the "battery terminal post" type switch and you have multiple batteries, you will need to install the post switch at every battery.
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03-14-2021, 07:58 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisB
Also, obviously, if you use the "battery terminal post" type switch and you have multiple batteries, you will need to install the post switch at every battery.
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Not really, just the lead to the trailer if all your doing is disconnecting the "trailer".
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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03-14-2021, 08:10 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisB
Also, obviously, if you use the "battery terminal post" type switch and you have multiple batteries, you will need to install the post switch at every battery.
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NOPE! Just the primary positive to the trailer or the negative cable going to ground.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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03-14-2021, 08:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisB
Also, obviously, if you use the "battery terminal post" type switch and you have multiple batteries, you will need to install the post switch at every battery.
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NOPE! Just the primary positive to the trailer or the negative cable going to ground.
If you use the disconnect that separates in the middle & install it on the positive cable you will have sparks, on negative you shouldn't.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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03-14-2021, 08:16 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 822
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Right. No need to install one on the tow vehicle or the DW's car. Batteries for a residential fridge need special consideration - there's probably other scenarios where separate batteries are used for boondocking or starting the generator. I assumed that we were talking about standard trailer batteries connected to the trailer.
It is fairly common to find 2 or more batteries in a bank that can not be fully interrupted with the OE "disconnect" system. If you have a trailer with more than one battery connected as a bank that you want to disconnect and you choose to use the battery post connection/switch shown by John in his post, then you will need to install a switch on each trailer battery. Sorry if that wasn't clear.
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03-14-2021, 08:19 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisB
Right. No need to install one on the tow vehicle or the DW's car. Batteries for a residential fridge need special consideration - there's probably other scenarios where separate batteries are used for boondocking or starting the generator. I assumed that we were talking about standard trailer batteries connected to the trailer.
It is fairly common to find 2 or more batteries in a bank that can not be fully interrupted with the OE "disconnect" system. If you have a trailer with more than one battery connected as a bank that you want to disconnect and you choose to use the battery post connection/switch shown by John in his post, then you will need to install a switch on each trailer battery. Sorry if that wasn't clear.
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Unless you have separate battery(s) for a residential fridge, then again you only need one disconnect at the power FEED TO THE TRAILER no matter how many batteries are in that "bank"
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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03-14-2021, 09:39 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson
Posts: 822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
Unless you have separate battery(s) for a residential fridge, then again you only need one disconnect at the power FEED TO THE TRAILER no matter how many batteries are in that "bank"
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Ok, didn't mean to highjack the thread over the issue. Since you seem determined to ignore what I actually say I'll just hope that others will actually read what I wrote and capture what I was saying. This was not a recommendation on my part. I too would choose a single switch to interrupt the negative side of the entire power feed. My point was simply that you can't use a "post switch" and interrupt only one battery in a bank and expect that to accomplish a complete disconnect. With that, I'm done.
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03-14-2021, 01:46 PM
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#14
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Ridgefield WA
Posts: 190
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Thanks everyone. I’m going with the post style. The funny thing is, I first went to NAPA and they wanted $46 for one that looked just like the one at Horror Freight for $7. So I bought two from HF. The other I’ll use on my smaller hunting trailer.I figure these are probably made to handle a starter load. My little travel trailer won have near that load.
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03-14-2021, 03:31 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blubuckaroo
Thanks everyone. I’m going with the post style. The funny thing is, I first went to NAPA and they wanted $46 for one that looked just like the one at Horror Freight for $7. So I bought two from HF. The other I’ll use on my smaller hunting trailer.I figure these are probably made to handle a starter load. My little travel trailer won have near that load.
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According to the HF website, the "terminal mounted BCO switch is rated @12 volts, 500 peak/125 continuous amps. A 6 gauge battery cable 2' long will burn up (or melt the insulation) at around 150-200 amps. If you think about the two mini-breakers on the bulkhead crossmember on your trailer, one is 40 amps and the other is 30 amps, so the max that could ever go through the battery cable (and the BCO switch) is 70 amps. That is, unless you wind up with a direct short on the battery cable, and then, you'd be better off if that switch "burned up quicker than the trailer.....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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03-23-2021, 01:00 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Manchester
Posts: 71
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A simple reminder for all involved that your RV battery is likely providing power to your trailer brakes in the event of a trailer separation that involves pulling your emergency cable. If your battery is manually disconnected when you are towing (by switch, terminal removal, whatever), your brakes won't set in a separation. So make sure that battery is connected before you tow!
__________________
-----------------------------------------
2021 Aspen Trail 17BH
2018 Dodge Durango R/T tow vehicle
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03-23-2021, 04:49 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 503
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The reason to switch the positive in any towable is to avoid disabling the breakaway braking system. The breakaway switch is connected to power prior to the disconnect allowing the breakaway to operate regardless of switch position.
__________________
2018 Cougar 26RBS
2016 Chevrolet 3500DRW D/A
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03-23-2021, 07:50 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customer1
The reason to switch the positive in any towable is to avoid disabling the breakaway braking system. The breakaway switch is connected to power prior to the disconnect allowing the breakaway to operate regardless of switch position.
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But to totally disconnect ALL parasitic drains you need to disconnect a battery cable, by doing this you disconnect the breakaway power.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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03-24-2021, 05:38 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Florissant
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
But to totally disconnect ALL parasitic drains you need to disconnect a battery cable, by doing this you disconnect the breakaway power.
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Fortunately, a lot of campers will want to keep the contents of the refrigerator cold, thereby switching on the battery (and the propane).
__________________
Skids
2019 Bullet 248RKS
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03-24-2021, 05:46 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customer1
The reason to switch the positive in any towable is to avoid disabling the breakaway braking system. The breakaway switch is connected to power prior to the disconnect allowing the breakaway to operate regardless of switch position.
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Well if the disconnect is on the negative cable the breakaway will not work as the battery is not grounded, therefore no voltage.
If you really worry about the breakaway, take the positive wire and attach directly to the battery positive post, the breakaway switch is normally open and will NOT create parasitic draw on the battery.
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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