Black tank leaking when valve is shut

[Justus2]

Two new/related issues for me.

I noticed this past weekend there was a horrible, raw sewage odor coming from under my 2014 Alpine 5th wheel (3010RE). Pinpointed it to the actual dump valve - it was slowly leaking fluids out of the small/hose valve (I have the cap with the smaller hose hook up/valve).

I checked - the only valves open were the gray water, and no water had been flushed down the drains since we winterized. Black tank valve was shut as far as the rod would go in. Could it be that valve not shutting all the way allowed some of the black tank stuff to leak out (we've been using the toilet for a couple weeks now)? Or, is this a sign of something more serious that I need to be prepared for when the water goes on next weekend?

How do I push that black tank valve rod all the way closed? The rod won't got in any further, it sticks out about 1/2 inch to inch. The rod itself appears to be rusting a little so its getting harder and harder to close. Seems when we flush the black tank there's a kick back of water out of the black tank flush, no matter how long we wait for things to drain. How do we stop that kick back of water (it goes all over the place. Everything is wet).

Thank you in advance.

[66joej]

Best bet is to drain and flush the black tank and replace the valve. Not a big job. In the meantime you can purchase a valve that goes on at the outlet. Like this.Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve
Sold by: Amazon.com.ca, Inc.

[chuckster57]

Do you have cable actuated valves? If so then replacing the valve is a little more involved. Keystone likes to use "Bristol" brand, I am currently working on a '15 Alpine with a bad gray tank valve.

The spitback from the rinser is normal. When you hook the hose up and turn on the water it goes UP hill to the anti siphon valve and then DOWN hill to the black tank. Your seeing the water that's in the UP hill portion drain back out.

[notanlines]

Justus, you need to start your problem solving by dropping your Coroplast a little and actually look to see if the valve is working with the cable or what the problem might be. I just replaced the cable on our black tank and it didn't seem to be much of a problem. While I was there I also disconnected one of the grey tank cables and filled it with lube. Both work just fine now.

[ctbruce]

A couple of pictures will help too, so we can see exactly what you are seeing. A picture of your leak/dump area, the valve that's not working and your pull location would be very helpful. Good luck.

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[PARAPTOR]

Before you get into replacing a valve you may want to read a previous post of mine. Have already replaced two cables, one black and one gray. Pull down the belly cover around the handles an enough to see the cable going to the valve

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ighlight=Cable

As stated by chuckster57 the water you are seeing coming out of the back flush is the amount of water that was in the length of hose from the outside connection to that back flow device

[ChuckS]

You can also try working some PB Blaster inside the pull handle cable sheath. I've done this on my 2014 Alpine 3010RE and all valve handles pull very easy. I spray these 3 to 4 times a year now... I also put on an external valve Valtera brand with clear connection and hose flush. This extra gate valve prevents leakage should one of the tank valves not close all the way as well as providing me an easy way to clean my black tank out.... some will say this don't work but on my unit it works quite chipper.


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[kksfish]

Might be worth first trying a good flush and clean with Dawn....could be as simple as some "stuff" has built up and is preventing the valve from closing completely

[carwheel_09]

I swapped out my Bristol valves to Valterra. The 3" is a good fit, the 1.5" not good.


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[Justus2]

Thank you all. Will try flushing it good when the water goes on (should be this weekend or early next week). My husband looked at things yesterday and said the job looked horrible, the black underbelly (coroplast?) is not easy to get off. We have our trailer off the jacks and on blocks. I think the blocks are in the way so we may need to figure out how to put the landing gear down so we can remove those blocks near the valve.

Since I have you here, what is the Dawn thing all about? Do you actually put Dawn dish soap in your toilet, fill the black tank with cold water & rinse? We could try that too.
And Mineral oil to lube things? Add to the water? We could try that too.

[JRTJH]

Most of us probably would not remove the coroplast to access the dump valve. Rather we'd cut a "3 sided flap" in the coroplast (immediately under the valve location) with the "hinge flap" toward the front of the trailer. That way you can "fold the flap down, repair the valve and then fold it back up, clean the cut edges with alcohol and "repair the cuts" with Gorilla tape. That's much easier than trying to disassemble the trailer.

If you look at your ram type slide motor access, Keystone has already cut the access (or provided a piece of coroplast that's screwed into the location where the access would need to be cut) so you can gain access to the slide motor.

I wouldn't remove the coroplast, you're asking for more trouble than you'll want. Trying to reseal it to the frame rails and getting it lined up properly is just an exercise in frustration that you can easily avoid.

DAWN (blue type) is a very effective cleaner. Many of us use it in the black tank as a cleaner/deodorizer. It seems to work best if the trailer is towed with Dawn in the tank. The agitation helps break down scum that's adhered to the walls. It will work on a stationary tank, but probably not as well. I don't know about using mineral oil in the tank. Depending on the composition of the valve slide blade seals, it may damage them. Olive oil is an alternative to "commercial lubricants" and works in holding tanks.

This next statement may seem "tongue in cheek" but it isn't really intended that way. Do a forum search for "olive oil" and you'll find some good discussion (some very comical) that will give you a better perspective on using olive oil in your RV.

[66joej]

Dawn soap is used by a lot of campers (cheap and effective). Put in both black and grey tanks. Great grease cutter. Don't need a lot 1/4 cup is more than enough. Mineral oil would be to lube the gate valves.

[chuckster57]

I wouldn't remove the coroplast, you're asking for more trouble than you'll want. Trying to reseal it to the frame rails and getting it lined up properly is just an exercise in frustration that you can easily avoid.

I agree, BUT...With a customer unit I don't get that option.

[cardinal96ss]

Justis 2- Perhaps you will be as lucky as I was. Last year I noticed that my black tank valve was not closing fully and posted, asking for help in how to replace/repair the problem. I received great assistance from other members and waited until spring to address the problem. After flushing the tank several times and working the valve, it seated better and solved the problem. No leaks now during or after the 2500 mile trip we just completed.
I did add a Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve mentioned above to the end of both dump connections to prevent any problems. They worked well and would take care of minor leaks also.
Good luck.

[Justus2]

Thank you all. This advice is priceless - RV dealers/technicians don't have answers like this forum.

Just saw a note, water turn on is delayed due to freezing temperatures. It may be another couple weeks, but I'll let you know how things go.

Have a great weekend.