d-ring tie down replacement

[Desert185]

Stainless hardware is good unless the tiedown load is heavy. With any kind of a heavy load you'll want Grade 5 or 8 bolts and nuts with split lock washers.

From the looks of the OP's old d-rings, I would probably use anti-sieze on the bolts.

[hankaye]

Pullin, Howdy;

hummm, thought I'd posted something to this earlier this AM.
Musta hit preview and moved on...
Anyway, for information about fasteners I'd suggest looking for the nearest Fastenal location;
http://www.fastenal.com/web/location...806!1013855309
They have some expertise in these areas and can make some excellent
recommendations/suggestions for your application.
I was thinking along the lines of a mini-torch like one of these;
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/micro-flame-butane-torches
to help bust some of that rust. keep a water soaked rag handy to keep
the fire hazard low ...

hankaye

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

You can always use Loc-tite on the bolt threads. Red is "permanent" and blue is "almost permanent". That will make your nut installation easier than trying to install washers under the nuts. If you use a good high intensity flash light you should be able to remove one screw from the coroplast and peek into the "underbelly". It's easiest to see well into the underbelly at dusk or in the evening when there isn't a lot of light outside. If there are any tanks there, you'll see them.

As for using Nylock nuts, my reason for not using them is because the only ones "usually available" in most hardware stores are grade 2. They will strip very easily with any tension on the assembly. If you can find grade 5 or grade 8 Nylocks, they would work for you, but unless you can find a specialty fastener store, you're probably not going to find anything but grade 2 Nylocks.

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Good fender washers to spread the load, lock washers and grade 8 bolts and nuts. Loc-Tite blue and your golden.

I've removed a couple of edge screws to access stuff underneath without cutting a hole in the coroplast.

Originally Posted by Desert185

For those tiedowns, nylocs and washers should be fine. For car hauler loads, no nylocs. I used grade 8 nuts and bolts and split lock washers.

My Condor motorcycle chock came with nylocs, grade 5 bolts and flat washers. Must be acceptable for the application, and certainly better than self-tapping screws.

For the OP, try a heat gun for removing that broken screw along with a good penetrating oil. Kroil or PB Blaster works well. Once again, use zinc plated hardware.

Originally Posted by hankaye

Pullin, Howdy;

hummm, thought I'd posted something to this earlier this AM.
Musta hit preview and moved on...
Anyway, for information about fasteners I'd suggest looking for the nearest Fastenal location;
http://www.fastenal.com/web/location...806!1013855309
They have some expertise in these areas and can make some excellent
recommendations/suggestions for your application.
I was thinking along the lines of a mini-torch like one of these;
http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/micro-flame-butane-torches
to help bust some of that rust. keep a water soaked rag handy to keep
the fire hazard low ...

hankaye

Awesome! Thank you sir for the referral to fastenal. I just hit their website and there is one not too far from me. This is HUGE sir! Can't thank you enough.

[Pulln]

fastenal had what I was looking for. Now I am looking to replace the d ring tie downs. I found these http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Carg...hy/RR01-C.html but am worried about the recessed hole as the bolts I have are flat backed.

Do I have any reason to be concerned about the flat bolt and the recessed hole?

Thanks in advance.

[JRTJH]

I think you're asking if it's OK to install "flat" bolts in a "countersunk" hole?

If that's what you're asking, then unless "beauty" is more important than "function" it really doesn't matter.

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I think you're asking if it's OK to install "flat" bolts in a "countersunk" hole?

If that's what you're asking, then unless "beauty" is more important than "function" it really doesn't matter.

Yes sir precisely what I was asking. Appreciate the speedy reply. I am definitely looking for function and safety first.

[Desert185]

Just use a flat washer under the bolt head.

[Pulln]

yeah its looking like that might be my only option. I feel like Goldielocks trying to find a close match for this.

[Pulln]

ordered replacements from Trekwood. The folks were very nice and used a photo and the last 8 digits of my VIN to help make sure the right part gets sent. Once I get the parts in I'll let you all know how well that process worked.

I appreciate all the advice and hope to be able to pay it forward some day.

[Pulln]

received my replacement tie downs and they are spot on direct replacements. Started with the install today and so far so good. To access the left and right outer toe downs I had to unscrew the lower metal skirt from under the camper and the middle three will require cutting through the coroplast.

Bolting them down through the frame is definitely the right thing to do and will be able to tie down my motorcycles with absolute peace of mind.

Thanks again for all the info.

[JRTJH]

Sounds like you've got a good start on making significant improvements in your tie-down system. Don't forget.... pictures, Pictures, PICTURES !!!!! Just as soon as you're finished and it's all "buttoned up" someone will be asking the same question, so "become a hero" and post your progress !!!

[notanlines]

Pullin, first of all "thanks" for keeping us up on the progress. Most people bring up a problem and we never hear from them again. And like John said, "pictures, pictures, pictures."

[Pulln]

definitely going to be getting some pictures and I hope that this does benefit someone else in the future.

The pictures will tell it all but my tie downs on the left and right outer most sides were easily access by unscrewing the bottom screws to the metal skirt.

The center line has been quite the story and has yet to be finished. The rear most center tie down is near the fuel tank below the garage and was easy to get to.

The Middle and front most tie downs are above the potable water tanks! It didn't appear that there was a support beam that runs centerline so I may only get to anchor the center bolt of the tie down through a cross beam. For the top and bottom I will like cut some flat metal or find a large washer to back them. I may just buy two of the brophy back plates so that the tie down has the backing of the cross beam and across the top and bottom bolts.

But before I can do that I need to figure out how to drop my water tanks. Problem is I am about to head out of town on business to Honolulu, trust me I am blessed to have the job but Honolulu is not tops on my destinations due to the length of the flight.

As I am packing I will be looking for articles on the forum but if you have a link already or can kindly tell me what I am in store for I would greatly appreciate it.

My son and I have unscrewed the coroplast up to the rear axles. One tank site right over the axles and another is to the rear of it support by cross members.

Sadly the tie downs are situated right at the center point of both tanks and I can think of any other way to get to the underside of the floor to secure them. I am going to make this happen because I want that peace of mind when rolling down the road. I want to know that my gear isn't going to come loose and harm someone else.

I am 6 bolts away from having this done. I never thought in my wildest dreams I would have a camper let alone be this far up the bottom of one but here I am

Thanks again and rest assured that as soon as I get back from this trip I will post up my pictures.

[hankaye]

Pulln, Howdy;

"I am 6 bolts away from having this done. I never thought in my wildest dreams I would have a camper let alone be this far up the bottom of one but here I am"

Sound like something Igor might have said to Dr. Frankenstein, one dark and dreary evening ...

hankaye

[Pulln]

Laughing my butt off! I've been to some dark and dreary places on this projected loaded with bugs and spiderwebs and such.

I think i need two campers one to work on and one to camp in

[Pulln]

I haven't been able to find anything very instructive on the tank removal process so I am going to drop the TH off at a trailer repair shop once it get it back from the decal installers.

My son and I got 9 of the 11 installed and we install some new bolts and washers to hold the coroplast up. The old hardware was terribly rusted and needed to be done before they got any worse. I had to use some extraction tools on a few.

Hopefully the trailer supply/repair folks can do the last two a decent rate. My son smahed his hand pretty badly and had to go to the ER and my shoulder is pretty messed up from hanging all the coroplast up by myself.

Hope to have this done before next week.

[hankaye]

Pulln, Howdy;

Sorry to hear about your son's hand, hopefully not to serious
and mends quickly.
You've only got another week or 2 before your time frame changes
to a Next Year verbiage ...

hankaye

[Pulln]

Originally Posted by hankaye

Pulln, Howdy;

Sorry to hear about your son's hand, hopefully not to serious
and mends quickly.
You've only got another week or 2 before your time frame changes
to a Next Year verbiage ...

hankaye

Thanks for the well wishes!

Yeah I can't believe how fast the year has gone by. I had a dental exam yesterday and needed to book a follow up appointment, that is when I got my first sample of well we can't see ya until next year.

The years seem to fly by now.

[jsmith948]

Originally Posted by Pulln

Thanks for the well wishes!

Yeah I can't believe how fast the year has gone by. I had a dental exam yesterday and needed to book a follow up appointment, that is when I got my first sample of well we can't see ya until next year.

The years seem to fly by now.

A truism to ponder...
Life is like a roll of toilet paper....The closer you get to the end...the faster it seems to go!

[Desert185]

You beat me to the same posting.