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Old 12-01-2012, 08:24 AM   #1
sonuvabum
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: The Best Part of Texas
Posts: 7
Winterizing your RV

Several years ago, when I got my first trailer, I remember being disapointed by the lack of documentation that came with my trailer. I also remember having to go to several different sources to find all the info I felt was needed to complete the job properly. Through that exercise, and after several years of experience, I have drafted a somewhat generic process for winterizing an RV rig. I thought I would share with everyone.

To the newbie, please note these are generic instructions. I hope they help. To the more experienced of you out there, if you see something to add, please do.

Best to all,

Gary
_____________________________

Winterizing:

Supplies Needed:
Plastic water inlet nozzle (available from most any RV Supply)
Air tank or compressor
RV Type Anti-Freeze (do NOT use automotive anti-freeze)

Be sure you have done your normal gray and black water dump and rinse before beginning this process. Do not leave any residual water in your black tank from the rinse process. The holding tanks should be completely empty.

Open all the faucets, then un-cap all the drain lines underneath the trailer. There should be at least three, Hot, Cold, and Fresh. Don’t forget to open the outside shower faucet if you have one. Open vent on top of the water heater to help draining of the heater tank. It may take a while to drain the hot water side.

Once water stops draining, run the water pump briefly to be sure there is no residual water in the pump or fresh water tank. Do not run for more than a few seconds.

Use compressed air to clear residual water out of system. Put plastic air nozzle on the city water inlet and close all faucets. Re-cap hot and cold drain lines, then one by one, open each Hot then Cold, at each faucet, one at a time. Remember the outside faucet if you have one. Begin with the faucet closest to your water heater and work your way out from there. Use air tank (or compressor) air hose to pressurize the water lines. Be sure to use a low pressure. High pressure will likely damage your system. I believe most water systems have a check valve that will maintain some pressure on the lines without having to hold the air pressure line on the air nozzle. You may need to re-pressure the lines a couple of times during this process. By then opening each valve individually, any remaining water in the lines should come out through each open faucet line. Be sure to open the toilet flush lever too. Lastly, remove the hot/cold drain plugs and blow air through the system one more time. Store all the caps in a safe place. I usually put mine in a zip-loc in the sink so that when I first open up the trailer next year, I will see them and be reminded.

Place large bucket under sewer dump outlet and open waste cap. Make sure all waste storage tanks are completely empty by opening the valves.

Re-open all hot and cold water faucets and pour some RV Anti-Freeze into all sink drains and the shower drain to displace any water in the pea-traps. I usually drop a little in the toilet as well. This is also a good time to check each pea trap drain assembly to make sure all the connections are tight. NEVER EVER PUT ANTI-FREEZE IN YOUR FRESH WATER HOLDING TANK!

After any residual anti-freeze run off from the black and gray tanks empties into the bucket, close the sewer valves and replace waste water cap.

You should now be good for the winter.
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