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Old 06-22-2022, 04:56 AM   #21
Opa 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The EMS "checks power into the trailer" but once through the EMS, it doesn't continue to check power. So, for example, if there is a loose connection on one side of the power center main circuit breaker, the EMS won't detect that. So, as an example, if the air conditioners are wired, say with the bedroom unit on L1 and the main unit on L2, and there is a loose wire at the main breaker on L2, the EMS would see "good power from the campground connection, pass that to the trailer power center and L1 would work properly while the loose wire on L2 would prevent the main unit from working along with everything else on that side of the main breaker. If everything else is working on the L2 side, possibly a loose wire on the air conditioner circuit breaker would do the same thing.

I think I'd check all the wire connections on the power center. You may find a loose wire on either the main breaker L1/L2 or a loose wire on the back of the main air conditioner circuit breaker.

DISCONNECT/UNPLUG THE SHORE POWER CORD BEFORE REMOVING THE POWER CENTER FACEPLATE !!!!! There's enough "juice" in there to make you a "crispy critter" !!!!!
Thank you I will give it a try
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Old 06-22-2022, 05:43 AM   #22
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Just wondering if the clicking you heard wasn't ice breaking off. Was it just frozen up?. If i leave mine running with the dump shut so it blows thru the vents it will freeze up after awhile. This only happens when its very hot out
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Old 06-22-2022, 08:40 AM   #23
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Just wondering if the clicking you heard wasn't ice breaking off. Was it just frozen up?. If i leave mine running with the dump shut so it blows thru the vents it will freeze up after awhile. This only happens when its very hot out
I would think frozen as well but we leave it on all the time in south alabama without fail. But I do turn it up higher temp and it sits under a roof still maybe
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Old 06-26-2022, 09:23 AM   #24
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The cheapest try is to change the start-run capacitor. It is most likely a 60-5. You can get one thru Amazon for about $20. Just make sure your shore power and battery are off. Match up the wires for the compressor, common and the fan. Do not touch the poles on the old capacitor. Use insulated needle nose pliers.
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:33 PM   #25
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To add to this story we pulled out of the campground in Wisconsin on Friday made it down to Missouri by that evening temps were 90 degrees we ran both ac units and both work flawlessly until we pulled out on Saturday morning. On Saturday evening we arrived home to humid south alabama and we plugged up to our 30 amp service we have at home so only one ac can be used this unit is still working great.

I am beginning to wonder if we had a electrical service problem with the campground service box? The only thing that does not make sense if this were the case why did the front unit work without issue?
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:43 PM   #26
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It sure sounded to me like you may have lost one leg of your 120vac. Did you ever go out and look at your EMS to see what it was getting as far as incoming power on each leg or does yours do that? Very well may have been the campground power, I've had all kinds of things happen and seen lots more. Lots of those places use "whoever" they can find to do electrical mtce. and no telling what you'll come across.
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:50 PM   #27
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It sure sounded to me like you may have lost one leg of your 120vac. Did you ever go out and look at your EMS to see what it was getting as far as incoming power on each leg or does yours do that? Very well may have been the campground power, I've had all kinds of things happen and seen lots more. Lots of those places use "whoever" they can find to do electrical mtce. and no telling what you'll come across.
I don’t think our ems does that. It looks like there is a place to show error codes “2 digits” only. Do you know a device that can be purchased in addition to plug in and check the power?

In that case would you check for amps or voltage?
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Old 06-26-2022, 02:08 PM   #28
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I use a Surge Guard by Southwire. The module shows incoming voltage on each leg as well as amps being used per leg. In your situation, if the campground power lost a leg, the readout would show 120vac on L1 and 0vac on L2 - you would be looking for the voltage coming in.

Does the protector you have look like the one in the link or is it different?

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Surge-Pr...BoCFyAQAvD_BwE
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Old 06-26-2022, 02:43 PM   #29
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I use a Surge Guard by Southwire. The module shows incoming voltage on each leg as well as amps being used per leg. In your situation, if the campground power lost a leg, the readout would show 120vac on L1 and 0vac on L2 - you would be looking for the voltage coming in.

Does the protector you have look like the one in the link or is it different?

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Surge-Pr...BoCFyAQAvD_BwE
Very similar but mine has a place on the lower right corner of the box part that can show two digits. I did not see it on this one, but I am looking at my cell phone and can only make it so big it is possible I cannot see the bottom right corner well enough
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:26 PM   #30
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Here's another link to one that has the 2 digits in the lower right corner. I'm not that familiar with Hughes products but in reading it sounds as if there are various models old and new that provide more advanced features as the get newer. This one is of a current model 50A. Note the space for 2 digits in the lower right corner AND in the lower center, under 50amp it says "smart surge protector +epo". From what I gather older models did not have that. It means that the protector will shut down power if it encounters one of several different line failures. Does yours have the "+epo"? If so, it should have shut down your trailer if you lost one leg and remove that possiblility.

https://hughes.b-cdn.net/wp-content/...-FRNT-BT-1.jpg
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:56 PM   #31
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Here's another link to one that has the 2 digits in the lower right corner. I'm not that familiar with Hughes products but in reading it sounds as if there are various models old and new that provide more advanced features as the get newer. This one is of a current model 50A. Note the space for 2 digits in the lower right corner AND in the lower center, under 50amp it says "smart surge protector +epo". From what I gather older models did not have that. It means that the protector will shut down power if it encounters one of several different line failures. Does yours have the "+epo"? If so, it should have shut down your trailer if you lost one leg and remove that possiblility.

https://hughes.b-cdn.net/wp-content/...-FRNT-BT-1.jpg
I have this same unit but mine does NOT have the auto shutoff feature if a problem is detected. I strongly encourage you to get the auto shutoff if possible. I like the Bluetooth feature that sends amp and voltage info to my phone.
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Old 06-26-2022, 05:03 PM   #32
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I suspect that may be what OP has so he never knew if he lost one leg of power.
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Old 06-26-2022, 05:45 PM   #33
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I suspect that may be what OP has so he never knew if he lost one leg of power.
Thanks. This is the unit we have but it do not know about the auto shutoff. If CedarCreekWoody is right I do not have a auto shut off.

I will need to research and get a New one that does have this any suggestions
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Old 06-26-2022, 06:37 PM   #34
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If it does not have the "+ epo", the newer units with a cutoff, then you just have a surge protector which doesn't really do anything for you.

I'm not a fan of Hughes because they aren't user friendly and insist that you use an "app". I don't like apps for something like that; if it's happening while I'm there and I have a readout in house I know what's going on. Having an app to tell me there's a power anomaly when I'm 100 miles away is useless. I love my remote operated thermostat but IMO there are other, more effective methods, to monitor your power and any faults - dots, codes etc. to me just don't do it. Others disagree I'm sure.
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Old 06-27-2022, 06:37 AM   #35
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Fortunately there's many choices these days. Unfortunatly with the popularity and product expansion those choices can be confusing and deceptive. The most important thing to do is to restrict your list of considerations by what the device DOES about a fualt and ignore the units that only report a fualt. The only thing that reporting only does is tell you " this is why your air conditioner, refridgerator, and television have been destroyed". Get a device that will PREVENT damage.

An EMS (or device by any other name) WILL within milliseconds, interrupt the shore power BEFORE the fualt can cause thousands of dollars in damages. The following list is an example of the most common fualts that the device should shut down power if encountered.

1. Low or high voltage. It's the silent killer. Everything seems fine then things begin failing even though you have power.
2. Incorrectly wired or defective shore power pedestal outlets. I.e. missing ground, missing neutral, on 50 amp units missing either one of the two lines. Incorrect wiring such as the line connected to the nuetral or the ground. In 30 amp outlets if someone wires up the outlet for a 220v dryer or someone attempts to use a properly wired 220v dryer or welder outlet the results will be catastrophic.

After shortening down your list to "elegible" devices then look at the factors that interest you. Some folks live by the phone apps and others dispise them, the choice is yours as that should have no effect on the protection provoded.
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Old 06-28-2022, 02:42 AM   #36
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Fortunately there's many choices these days. Unfortunatly with the popularity and product expansion those choices can be confusing and deceptive. The most important thing to do is to restrict your list of considerations by what the device DOES about a fualt and ignore the units that only report a fualt. The only thing that reporting only does is tell you " this is why your air conditioner, refridgerator, and television have been destroyed". Get a device that will PREVENT damage.

An EMS (or device by any other name) WILL within milliseconds, interrupt the shore power BEFORE the fualt can cause thousands of dollars in damages. The following list is an example of the most common fualts that the device should shut down power if encountered.

1. Low or high voltage. It's the silent killer. Everything seems fine then things begin failing even though you have power.
2. Incorrectly wired or defective shore power pedestal outlets. I.e. missing ground, missing neutral, on 50 amp units missing either one of the two lines. Incorrect wiring such as the line connected to the nuetral or the ground. In 30 amp outlets if someone wires up the outlet for a 220v dryer or someone attempts to use a properly wired 220v dryer or welder outlet the results will be catastrophic.

After shortening down your list to "elegible" devices then look at the factors that interest you. Some folks live by the phone apps and others dispise them, the choice is yours as that should have no effect on the protection provoded.
Thank you this is good advice and I I’ll use it in my search
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