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Old 12-08-2021, 07:19 PM   #1
sourdough
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Suburban Water Heater Woes

Guess I've been luck all these years and had Atwood water heaters. This one is a 12 gal. Suburban. I've found nothing redeemable about it but I have what seems to be a continuing issue;

Our first trip out (for 3 months) the electric side of the Suburban quit. Ran it down to a melted switch on the outside of the water heater. Replaced the switch but still didn't have 120 so ran on LP for the time we were out. The switch quit at about 4 weeks (maiden voyage). Had the system checked out upon return and dealer said everything was fine...probably a weak switch.

On this trip we've been out about 5 - 5 1/2 weeks and tonite the water heater switch melted again. I have now went back to LP so I could take a hot shower tonite. A couple of questions;

Has anyone experienced the external water heater switch constantly melting? Tells me the factory switch isn't made for that much current (15A). The OE melted and I replaced with an OE. I have another spare but see no benefit in constantly replacing that switch in what I consider a poor design. My thought? Bypass that switch. I see zero purpose in it being there other than to complicate what should be a simple circuit. Tomorrow I intend to cut the switch out and just wire by it. Is there something I'm not aware of? Looking at the schematics I've never seen a need for that switch but may have missed something.... Any thoughts?
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Old 12-09-2021, 04:32 AM   #2
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You can bypass that switch. I suspect it's standard equipment to accommodate various institutions. Those water heaters are used in applications other than RVs. Not uncommon for a 6 gallon unit to be used in a retail or office bathroom to provide HW for a sink or a sink in an office kitchen/breakroom.

Obviously if you don’t have a wall switch for the electric element you'll have to use the breaker in the distribution panel to operate the WH.
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Old 12-09-2021, 06:54 AM   #3
ChuckS
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In 8 years Ive not had any issue with the 120 side of my SW12DEL Suburban.. The heating element is 1440 watts so thats 12 amps max current draw across the OEM switch..

The did update the OEM switch PN a bit back.. the contacts of the switch itself are so so IMO

Taking the switch out of the circuit is not an issue IMO AS LONG AS you don't forget to trip the inside AC breaker for the water heater when getting ready to travel and make sure water is in the tank before turning breaker back on
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Old 12-09-2021, 07:07 AM   #4
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If i had problems with the switch on mine I would install a real switch.. rated at 20 amps and it would require a bit of fabrication for the bracket nut would never fail...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...-110/100184840
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Old 12-09-2021, 07:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Guess I've been luck all these years and had Atwood water heaters. This one is a 12 gal. Suburban. I've found nothing redeemable about it but I have what seems to be a continuing issue;

Our first trip out (for 3 months) the electric side of the Suburban quit. Ran it down to a melted switch on the outside of the water heater. Replaced the switch but still didn't have 120 so ran on LP for the time we were out. The switch quit at about 4 weeks (maiden voyage). Had the system checked out upon return and dealer said everything was fine...probably a weak switch.

On this trip we've been out about 5 - 5 1/2 weeks and tonite the water heater switch melted again. I have now went back to LP so I could take a hot shower tonite. A couple of questions;

Has anyone experienced the external water heater switch constantly melting? Tells me the factory switch isn't made for that much current (15A). The OE melted and I replaced with an OE. I have another spare but see no benefit in constantly replacing that switch in what I consider a poor design. My thought? Bypass that switch. I see zero purpose in it being there other than to complicate what should be a simple circuit. Tomorrow I intend to cut the switch out and just wire by it. Is there something I'm not aware of? Looking at the schematics I've never seen a need for that switch but may have missed something.... Any thoughts?
My last two trailers had Suburban water heaters in them.. They did not have an INSIDE switch for the electric so I'm pretty good with them having a switch on the outside...

This trailer (Avalanche) has both an inside switch and the one on the unit.. I just figured it's a bonus and a safety feature... That way one of us can't accidently flip the switch in the control panel and leave the water heater on while in storage..

Looking at the parts breakdown it looks like they've change the switch.. you might check that out..
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Old 12-09-2021, 08:46 AM   #6
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Finally getting around to dealing with this switch. I think I'll just bypass it. ChuckS has a good idea on upgrading the switch because I think the OE is just not up to the task....and it does look "weak". On the other hand I've already got 2 switches to control the electrical side; the switch in the control panel that activates the relay to switch on the 120vac to the heater plus the breaker in the panel; either one turned off kills the 120vac to the element.

All that said, I'm going to just bypass the outside OE switch. I'll remove the melted switch and cover the hole so I can get to the wires in the future if I need them. Thanks for all the input and suggestions.
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Old 12-09-2021, 10:02 AM   #7
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One thing to perhaps ponder about in your specific case is the fact that your SW12DEL has burned up BOTH the remote 12 volt relay for the inside 120 control and now the exterior switch as well..

That should be a 1440 watt heater drawing max of 12 amps... Have you verified your actual current draw to that heating element?

Also have you taken a good look see at the 120 volt side thermostat for that water heater to make sure something isn't going on you haven't caught yet?

It all may just be coincidence in you case but might be something to take a closer look see at
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Old 12-09-2021, 10:06 AM   #8
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I feel similarly, and would worry that hard-wiring the switch is just going to move the actual problem to the next-weakest component.
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Old 12-09-2021, 11:06 AM   #9
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On my current Montana, that switch located on the outside of the water heater stuck in the "on" position. It froze there. Replacing it was very simple, it just pops on and pops off, switch the wires to the new one and re-insert... bingo ... done.

But, that is the only problem I've ever had with the switch. I've never had one melt on me. Something else needs to be check on that water heater before bypassing the switch. As others have stated, you need to check the actual voltage, and figure out what's really going on...especially if your camper is still in it's warranty period.
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Old 12-09-2021, 11:34 AM   #10
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Some other anomaly other than the switch was my thought the first time it failed but upon checking all readings were normal. I had initially thought the 12vdc relay had been ruined based upon feedback I had received and I wasn't getting voltage to the switch. The dealer checked it under warranty and said the relay and everything else was fine and nothing failed while they had it for about 10 days (I had already replaced the exterior switch). They did not pull the heater to check the relay but assumed it was OK because it functioned correctly. I do not know why I wasn't getting 120vac after the switch was replaced.

If I recall Suburban made models of this same heater without the exterior switch and of course I've read of no issues with them. I have however read quite a few accounts of the exterior switch failing on this particular model. When you look at one of those things I don't see how it carries 2 amps much less 12 - they look SO cheap.

In the interest of safety I will reinspect things prior to bypassing the switch. We keep having showers off and on, DW is packing to spend a few days at my DDs house in Tallahassee then they are returning for my birthday Sunday. Maybe I can get it done Saturday and see where I am. I'll post back with findings. Thanks again.
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Old 12-09-2021, 11:43 AM   #11
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With the relay for the heating element on the back side, I would see if you can get to the junction box. I’ve seen loose wire nuts.
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Old 12-09-2021, 08:24 PM   #12
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With the relay for the heating element on the back side, I would see if you can get to the junction box. I’ve seen loose wire nuts.
Excellent idea..
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Old 12-10-2021, 07:02 AM   #13
sourdough
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The more I think about it a loose wire nut might be causing this issue. It would explain why I still did not have 120vac to the switch after replacing it the first time but then the dealership found nothing wrong, it worked all the time they had it and they never pulled the unit out.

Thinking along those lines I figure I'll wait until I get back to TX in the spring to pull it out. I've got everything I need but just really don't want to try to shut it all down, pull it and troubleshoot it while trying to stay in it. I still plan to temp the wires back together (minus a switch) to read the amperage to confirm that's what's happening. At least it gives me something to do for my birthday other than eating fried shrimp....
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Old 12-16-2021, 08:24 AM   #14
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One thing to perhaps ponder about in your specific case is the fact that your SW12DEL has burned up BOTH the remote 12 volt relay for the inside 120 control and now the exterior switch as well..

That should be a 1440 watt heater drawing max of 12 amps... Have you verified your actual current draw to that heating element?

Also have you taken a good look see at the 120 volt side thermostat for that water heater to make sure something isn't going on you haven't caught yet?

It all may just be coincidence in you case but might be something to take a closer look see at
I have to agree with ChuckS.

The question is why is the switch repeatedly melting. Heat is going to be caused by resistance. The heating element works because of resistance so that is the most obvious choice for where to start. Buy a new element and compare the resistance to the one you have using an ohm meter. If that isn't it, then start looking at wire connections.
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Old 12-16-2021, 10:13 AM   #15
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I have to agree with ChuckS.

The question is why is the switch repeatedly melting. Heat is going to be caused by resistance. The heating element works because of resistance so that is the most obvious choice for where to start. Buy a new element and compare the resistance to the one you have using an ohm meter. If that isn't it, then start looking at wire connections.

I agree. First time I figured it was just cheap junk by looking at it. Second time makes you think about what is causing the heat.....IF it is excessive.....or if those switches are just junk.

First go round I pulled the specs for the element and read it - the reading was correct (10 ohms?? IIRC). I'm going to temp it to bypass the switch and see if it is actually pulling excessive current - when I can get it to the top of my "to do" list. If it isn't I'm going to just bypass that little plastic pain in the tail.
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Old 02-11-2022, 10:47 AM   #16
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A follow up on this thread and the situation;

Finally decided to do something with the switch today. I had not checked current draw so did; 12.3/12.4 amps so would seem in line. The melted switch was....melted and one conductor blackened. Put new ends on the wire and another new switch to see what happens. The switch is rated 16A at 250V and I'm running the above at 121VAC. I'm hoping that there was a bad batch of switches or something along that line, sort of like Dometic CT thermostats. If it fails again and the numbers are still in line I'm going to bypass it, then again, I've still got 2 more new switches in my spares box since I bought all that CW had. Time will tell.
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