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Old 01-25-2022, 03:25 PM   #21
flybouy
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I think it would be helpful if you could post a video or some pictures. Our unit has 2 slides, both rack and pinon and both slides "tilt up" or "tilt down" at the end of retracting and extending. When extended fully the slide will be flush and plumb with the interior gasket and when retracted fully it will be flush and plumb with the exterior gaskets.

The first time I saw a slide do that I thought something was wrong as it looked very disconcerting to me. After seeing other units on the lot do the same thing I accepted this as "normal" . Our trailer, now 10 yrs old has never had to have the slides adjusted. I do not extend the slides unless the trailer is level and the stabilizers are down. It's also good practice to fully extend or retract without stopping if possible. That may not be possible if space prohibits (say in a storage lot or rest stop) but that's better than stepping on the slide floor while it's retracted. You should avaid stepping on, or setting on any part of a slide when it's retracted.
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Old 01-25-2022, 03:35 PM   #22
JBM3M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
It's also good practice to fully extend or retract without stopping if possible.

That is part of my point. On retraction only, the top part, most (not always) times hangs, system can be heard overloading, and you have to stop and jiggle the top from the inside and it like jumps in at the top and then it works fine. I am certain that is not correct. As to why I can't say. When I run the slide, the unit is level on hard supports.
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Old 01-30-2022, 08:05 AM   #23
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Before making any adjustments, you should look over the racks and pinion gears and also the hydraulic ram. Make sure they a clean and lubricated. If at all dry, clean the teeth out good and spray with hydraulic slide lube. I have seen simple cleaning and lubrication have dramatic effect on this type of slide. On our first 5er I was sure the liv/din slide was out of adjustment and called a mobile tech. He looked it over and hosed it down good with lube and it worked fine for years after that. I of course lubed it periodically after that.
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Old 01-30-2022, 08:14 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by JBM3M View Post
That is part of my point. On retraction only, the top part, most (not always) times hangs, system can be heard overloading, and you have to stop and jiggle the top from the inside and it like jumps in at the top and then it works fine. I am certain that is not correct. As to why I can't say. When I run the slide, the unit is level on hard supports.
Only a real requirement on the Schwintec system to keep the motors in time

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Before making any adjustments, you should look over the racks and pinion gears and also the hydraulic ram. Make sure they a clean and lubricated. If at all dry, clean the teeth out good and spray with hydraulic slide lube. I have seen simple cleaning and lubrication have dramatic effect on this type of slide. On our first 5er I was sure the liv/din slide was out of adjustment and called a mobile tech. He looked it over and hosed it down good with lube and it worked fine for years after that. I of course lubed it periodically after that.
DRY LUBE ONLY
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Old 01-30-2022, 08:14 AM   #25
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by jimborokz View Post
Before making any adjustments, you should look over the racks and pinion gears and also the hydraulic ram. Make sure they a clean and lubricated. If at all dry, clean the teeth out good and spray with hydraulic slide lube. I have seen simple cleaning and lubrication have dramatic effect on this type of slide. On our first 5er I was sure the liv/din slide was out of adjustment and called a mobile tech. He looked it over and hosed it down good with lube and it worked fine for years after that. I of course lubed it periodically after that.
The OP's slides are Lippert electric driven ram slides. Keeping them clean is important, but I'd be concerned with "spraying them with hydraulic slide lube". I've found through the years (and Lippert warns against) spraying anything on the electric slide ram gearset that would attract or collect dirt/grime. That "sticky slide lube" can make a slide stop working completley or worsen problems with electric slides.

Keeping the polished hydraulic piston rams clean and lubricated is a "must do" for hydraulic rams, but is definitely not beneficial for electric ram gearsets to function properly.... YMMV
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Old 01-31-2022, 06:01 AM   #26
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Retraction

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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The OP's slides are Lippert electric driven ram slides. Keeping them clean is important, but I'd be concerned with "spraying them with hydraulic slide lube". I've found through the years (and Lippert warns against) spraying anything on the electric slide ram gearset that would attract or collect dirt/grime. That "sticky slide lube" can make a slide stop working completley or worsen problems with electric slides.

Keeping the polished hydraulic piston rams clean and lubricated is a "must do" for hydraulic rams, but is definitely not beneficial for electric ram gearsets to function properly.... YMMV
My bad, I thought we were talking hydraulic slides. I take it all back. I know nothing about electric ram slides. Thanks for straightening me out. The last thing I want to do is lead someone down the wrong path.
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Old 01-31-2022, 07:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by jimborokz View Post
My bad, I thought we were talking hydraulic slides. I take it all back. I know nothing about electric ram slides. Thanks for straightening me out. The last thing I want to do is lead someone down the wrong path.
No problem. With hydraulic slides it's important to keep the "shiny piston" clean and sliding well. If not, any dirt, grime or corrosion can cause the O-ring to roll or tear and start leaking. Fortunately, hydraulic rams are, for the most part, "self cleaning and self lubricating" and tend to take care of themselves with just a simple wipedown and a quick spray of lubricant.

Electric slides don't have that "self cleaning" capability. Anything sprayed on the gearset that can attract dirt/grime will then cause wear of the gears, destroy the plastic "guides" within the ram body and create all kinds of problems for the owner who "thinks keeping it well lubed" is a plus... I'd suspect that an "ignored electric ram" would probably have fewer problems than one which has been "overly sprayed, towed on sandy roads and then sprayed "too often" to keep it lubed....

Two different "beasts" that need different care.
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Old 01-31-2022, 09:56 AM   #28
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Since this is thru the frame electric slide out then I would be looking at a few things that would cause the OPs issue:

1. The slide out is grossly out of adjustment vertically
2. The thru the frame guide bar FRAME MOUNTED outer tube is bent upwards allowing the slide to lift higher then it should as it makes its intial motion up and onto the wear bar
3. The two gear packs are binding due to lack of care and maintenance

Gear packs DO require cleaning and lubrication whether they are hyd or elect driven slides

If they didn't then Lippert wouldn't take the time to make videos and a TI discussing this

Lippert video for care of gear packs:
https://youtu.be/NK4CGVwzW9Y

Image of wear tabs... also make sure the top section of the guide bar bracket isn't bent upward... if it is this will cause all sorts of other issues and there is a field repair for this
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspf...s/pdf/0065.pdf

Lippert TI for squeaking gear packs .. which is not the OPs issue but for future reference:
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0001864.pdf

I pull both my gear packs once every year and clean them and lubricate the bronze bushings and roll bar for the gear pack roller teeth.. I also use Gray spray on dry graphite lube on the gear pack teeth and guide bar teeth... it doesn't attract any dirt, provides lube to the gear teeth as they mesh and prevents rust from forming
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Old 01-31-2022, 10:10 AM   #29
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Chuck,

The one possibility that you didn't address is that the two rams are not in sync. If one of the wear tabs "allowed one of the rams to rise up, the drive roller could "skip a tooth" which would allow one side of the slide to be "further in or further out" when compared to the other side. Depending on which side is "in", when the slide is retracted, the opposite side (the side further out) would follow, not track with the drive side. That would cause the observed "one side rises up and then the second side rides up when the slide is fully retracted".. That's the observation the OP posted and is consistent with the two rams not being "properly adjusted and timed"... Essentially, what I think is happening is that the "closest side" comes in and when it hits the trailer sidewall, it "rides up".. Then, the "furthest out side" comes in enough for the brass bell to contact the trailer frame rail and stop the slide movement as that side "also rides up" and the end result is that both sides of the slide end up "against the trailer sidewall" but the first end to contact the trailer is caused by the ram teeth not being properly timed....

When I replaced my broken gearpacks, I needed to do the "field repair" on the drive ram wear tab. The other side (the follower ram) was fine and that tab didn't need to be shimmed. The reason my gearpacks needed to be replaced was from broken plastic rollers. I believe they broke from "rough towing in Colorado on I-70" but I can't prove that was the cause... Anyway, the bouncing ram with the broken rollers is probably what caused my wear tab to be squeezed and worn.
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Old 01-31-2022, 10:18 AM   #30
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I will say that both sides seem equal in retracted and full out mode. The pic of the wear things helps a lot. Need to get out and do a measurement along with seeing those wear bars.
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Old 01-31-2022, 10:19 AM   #31
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If I remember right the “old” field repair was cutting a washer and inserting it on the pin. “New” repair is to make the outer tube square and weld plates on 3 sides of it.
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Old 01-31-2022, 10:39 AM   #32
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If I remember right the “old” field repair was cutting a washer and inserting it on the pin. “New” repair is to make the outer tube square and weld plates on 3 sides of it.
Yep. I used two fender washers, a hack saw and the wire wheel on my grinder to build my "repair kit"...
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Old 01-31-2022, 10:45 AM   #33
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I will say that both sides seem equal in retracted and full out mode. The pic of the wear things helps a lot. Need to get out and do a measurement along with seeing those wear bars.
It's not "equal in full out or retracted position" rather it's whether one side touches the trailer sidewall before the other. That will cause the floor on that end of the slide to raise up before the floor on the other end raises up.

The only way I know of checking is to stop retracting the slide as the first end touches the trailer sidewall and then measure the other end. Then, extend the slide until you have 12" between a slide flange and the trailer sidewall, measure and record the other end of the slide (it should be equal).. Then fully extend the slide, and then retract it. Stop at the same 12" on one end and the other end "should be equal"... My guess is that the two measurements on the other end won't be the same 12".
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Old 01-31-2022, 11:34 AM   #34
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OP.. if you can get a helper to operate the slides and use a flashlight and observe you should be able to nail this issue down yourself …

My slide outs are hydraulic (all three) and the two main slides tip up when they first start to extend and tip up when they first start to retract

Yours are electric but same principle.. the bottom of the slide has to ride up onto a wear bar as it begins its motion and then start to level the further in our out it gets.. as it is extending the last inch or so you should see your slides “step down” off one of the wear bars and be level

If yours lift TOO HIGH on the initial step up motion then stop the slide and use a ladder or get on the roof and see how much vertical clearance is between the slide out roof to the slide out Filon wall cutout and wiper seal

If it is real tight then you have found your issue… the slide out is not adjusted properly in the vertical axis
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Old 02-01-2022, 08:53 AM   #35
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Chuck, at the very least, you have given me a great grasp of this, especially the photos. Weather is wet so not doing anything right now. (doing other stuff like putting remote start on my EU3000) But, I don't need a helper the dang fancy trailer has remote too for the slides and leveling, so I can sit right there and monitor this. I have a gut feeling that you are correct on the vertical adj being the issue. I even found the buttons on Etrailer for replacement if I need them. Look like by dropping the gear pack they can easily be replaced.


I do appreciate the help from both of you guys, thanks
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