Tail Light Screws Stripped

uechikid · 08-31-2020, 01:22 PM

I noticed that one of the tail lights was pulling away from the wall. When I took the lens off I saw that two of the screws were loose. When I tried to tighten them I realized that they are stripped. I've found a lot of screws in this trailer stripped from over tightening.
So now what? Get larger screws and be careful how tight I screw them in?
Any advise will be helpful.
Thanks.

ChuckS · 08-31-2020, 02:12 PM

You could remove the stripped screw and fill with a toothpick and glue or.. and it’s what I have used with excellent result....

https://www.jbweld.com/product/waterweld-epoxy-putty

Remove the stripped screw and mask around the hole to protect the rest of the surface and apply the product listed in link above... when dry drill small pilot hole for screw to go into. Permanent repair and you can maintain original size screws

GMH · 08-31-2020, 02:14 PM

You could also get some 1/8”-3/16” round styrene or pvc from a hobby shop. Or use sprue from a model kit. Drill a hole and glue a plug in. When dry redrill for the screw and be careful not to over tighten. Or McMaster Carr may have some sort of press-in threaded inserts?

Vet4jdc · 08-31-2020, 04:03 PM

Fill holes with gorilla glue and toothpicks. After it dries completely, break of the toothpicks flush with the surface. Drill a small hole and reinstall screws.

Customer1 · 08-31-2020, 06:20 PM

1/8" Hillman Pop Toggles should be in every RVers repair kit.

Northofu1 · 09-01-2020, 08:22 AM

Same length screw, move to a #10 or #12. I would guess it's a #8

uechikid · 09-04-2020, 12:14 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I'm not wild about the idea of making the holes bigger, so I think I'll try the epoxy/jbweld and toothpicks first. I used the toothpick trick and wood glue many time around the house 9door hinges).

**JRTJH** · 09-04-2020, 03:47 PM

You need to use putty tape behind the tail light assembly to seal not only the screw holes but also that "gawful hole" Keystone cuts for the wiring to go through... If you use butyl putty tape, then really, all the screws do is hold the light in place until the butyl putty tape "makes good contact" between the back of the light and the FILON sidewall of the trailer. After about 48 hours, you'll need a crowbar to pull the light fixture away from the trailer sidewall. So, long story shorter, about all the screws do is hold the fixture in place until the butyl cures.....

uechikid · 09-04-2020, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

You need to use putty tape behind the tail light assembly to seal not only the screw holes but also that "gawful hole" Keystone cuts for the wiring to go through... If you use butyl putty tape, then really, all the screws do is hold the light in place until the butyl putty tape "makes good contact" between the back of the light and the FILON sidewall of the trailer. After about 48 hours, you'll need a crowbar to pull the light fixture away from the trailer sidewall. So, long story shorter, about all the screws do is hold the fixture in place until the butyl cures.....

Should I caulk around the light fixture too?

**JRTJH** · 09-04-2020, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uechikid

Should I caulk around the light fixture too?

Use the butyl putty tape behind the entire light fixture, attach it with the screws (in the repaired holes) and as it "tightens to the FILON skin, it will push the butyl putty out around the edges. Trim the excess away with a plastic putty knife or plastic razor blade. You'll probably need to trim it again in a couple days. once it's stopped oozing putty, then you can use a "NON-SILICONE sealant" to run a bead on both sides and the top of the light fixture base. Leave the bottom unsealed so any moisture has a path out from behind the light.

uechikid · 09-04-2020, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Use the butyl putty tape behind the entire light fixture, attach it with the screws (in the repaired holes) and as it "tightens to the FILON skin, it will push the butyl putty out around the edges. Trim the excess away with a plastic putty knife or plastic razor blade. You'll probably need to trim it again in a couple days. once it's stopped oozing putty, then you can use a "NON-SILICONE sealant" to run a bead on both sides and the top of the light fixture base. Leave the bottom unsealed so any moisture has a path out from behind the light.

Thanks for the great instructions. I’ll do that.

BrooksFam · 09-05-2020, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

...............….use a "NON-SILICONE sealant" ............

Why non silicone??

**JRTJH** · 09-05-2020, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrooksFam

Why non silicone??

NOTHING (not even more silicone) sticks to cured silicone. If you use "silicone sealant" then you'll have to scrape, clean, rub, clean, scrape again to get all the old sealant off the tail light fixture and the trailer FILON skin before you can "reseal the fixture to the trailer"... It's much easier (and simpler) to use a "non-silicone sealant" that will adhere to itself once it's cured. That way, if you develop a leak in the sealant, or need to apply more, it'll stick to what's already there.....

Imagine if DICOR self leveling sealant didn't stick to itself and you have to remove ALL the old sealant from the roof before you could repair a leak or touch up a visible screw head ????? Avoid silicone containing sealants on your trailer, you'll thank yourself next time you need to do some "leak sealing"...

**sourdough** · 09-05-2020, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrooksFam

Why non silicone??

If you've done much "repairing", sealing etc. on an RV and had to deal with silicone....it's a royal pain. I don't have any patience and that stuff sure tries it. A little stretch of silicone that WILL NOT let go....stuck. Little wiggly shreds that are seemingly embedded in the exterior no matter what you do to it. It has a place but not on the exterior of a trailer where you have to maintain those surfaces.

uechikid · 09-05-2020, 06:29 PM

I bought a tube of this to seal around the fixture. “Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear RV Flexible Sealant“. I have some butyl tape too.

**JRTJH** · 09-05-2020, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uechikid

I bought a tube of this to seal around the fixture. “Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear RV Flexible Sealant“. I have some butyl tape too.

You'll be satisfied with the result... A "hint": If you use masking tape to outline where you apply the ProFlex, then while the sealant is still "wet" carefully peel the masking tape from the trailer skin and the light fixture, you'll wind up with a smooth, even bead of sealant around the light without having to rub your finger to smooth the surface and getting it "smeared all over the trailer"....

uechikid · 09-10-2020, 02:17 PM

I sealed the tail light today. I found a running light that had butyl putty but no sealant, so I sealed it up too. Took your advise and used painters tape for a clear edge. Worked great. I almost waited too long to remove the tape. That needs to be done within a few minutes after applying the sealant.
Thanks again for all the help.

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