Wheel Chock

[LewisB]

Originally Posted by rlh1957

XChocks when applied correctly and securely keeps either tire on a tandem axle from moving forward or backward and are a perfect replacement or addition to block chocks. Depending on chock, the plastic have been known to allow rig to move as they can move or slide on gravel or other surface.
X-Chocks will and do supply stabilization as well as safe chock of wheels, especially on inclines.

This is dangerous advice that is simply wrong.

• The manufacturer's specifically tell the user to NOT use x chocks as the sole means to chock wheels, especially on an incline.
• I agree that the cheap plastic wheel chocks can be easily driven over and are not much better.
• As a test, set up your X chocks as you typically do, then get in your truck and pull forward. You will likely be shocked at how INEFFECTIVE they are as wheel chocks.
• As a subsequent test, let about 10 psi of air (small amount) out of one of the tires and repeat the test.

I'm not bad mouthing X chocks as stabilizers! A lot of people love them. I'm saying don't park your RV on an incline and depend on X chocks to keep it from rolling. If you do, keep the phone number for your insurance agent handy in your wallet!

[LHaven]

I've come to the conclusion that there is no foolproof one-step chocking mechanism.

On our old manually-leveled TT, we used the plastic chocks on a rope. They worked just fine for 20 years, though they sometimes tended to stick under tires before departure.

When we got our new Cougar, we discovered that the factory levelers were pretty aggressive. When we were level, the chocks were nowhere near the tire edges anymore, and if we corrected for that, we often sat the rig down on both chocks hard prior to departure. The day I broke a toe trying to remove a chock, I started looking for alternatives.

We got a set of x-chocks. We learned pretty quickly that the distance between the tires varied depending on how the rig had been parked and leveled, much more than the chock handle could compensate for, and it was unreasonable to have to set the adjusting nut every time we set up camp, especially since the long threaded rod made a socket wrench impossible and the X mechanism fouled a box wrench.

We moved on to the Fastway, which I thought would solve all our problems. Instead, we quickly realized it had exactly the same problem as the plastic chocks, just on the opposite sides of the tires. However, it was an easier process to adjust a Fastway to a different length every time we leveled (though sometimes it takes several attempts to get the length right); and again you have remember to readjust before letting the rig back down or (let me tell you) you aren't going to pop this device by pulling on the cable (maybe with a bumper jack). It doesn't help that you can't pull straight up because of the skirting (goes for stepping on them at arrival as well).

We finally realized our only reasonable option was to place the plastic chocks at unhitching, level, then place the Fastway and remove the plastic chocks for our stay. (If we don't remove them, they are loose, and our dogs consider them a pull-toy.) Then we do the reverse on the way out, making sure we place the plastic chocks widely enough not to get pinched. In short, we have found no foolproof one-step process.

The whole concept of using chocks just for rig stability when occupied seems moot on a rig with such aggressive levelers that the wheels aren't even really functional anymore.

The OP also asked whether chocks have to be placed on both sides. I used to take this shortcut, until the day that we unhitched our rig on a brand new, visually level, smooth concrete pad, only to have the entire rig start slewing in an arc around the chocked wheels, sliding on its nose jack. Now we chock both sides before unhitching, every time.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by LHaven

I've come to the conclusion that there is no foolproof one-step chocking mechanism.

On our old manually-leveled TT, we used the plastic chocks on a rope. They worked just fine for 20 years, though they sometimes tended to stick under tires before departure.

When we got our new Cougar, we discovered that the factory levelers were pretty aggressive. When we were level, the chocks were nowhere near the tire edges anymore, and if we corrected for that, we often sat the rig down on both chocks hard prior to departure. The day I broke a toe trying to remove a chock, I started looking for alternatives.

We got a set of x-chocks. We learned pretty quickly that the distance between the tires varied depending on how the rig had been parked and leveled, much more than the chock handle could compensate for, and it was unreasonable to have to set the adjusting nut every time we set up camp, especially since the long threaded rod made a socket wrench impossible and the X mechanism fouled a box wrench.

We moved on to the Fastway, which I thought would solve all our problems. Instead, we quickly realized it had exactly the same problem as the plastic chocks, just on the opposite sides of the tires. However, it was an easier process to adjust a Fastway to a different length every time we leveled (though sometimes it takes several attempts to get the length right); and again you have remember to readjust before letting the rig back down or (let me tell you) you aren't going to pop this device by pulling on the cable (maybe with a bumper jack). It doesn't help that you can't pull straight up because of the skirting (goes for stepping on them at arrival as well).

We finally realized our only reasonable option was to place the plastic chocks at unhitching, level, then place the Fastway and remove the plastic chocks for our stay. (If we don't remove them, they are loose, and our dogs consider them a pull-toy.) Then we do the reverse on the way out, making sure we place the plastic chocks widely enough not to get pinched. In short, we have found no foolproof one-step process.

The whole concept of using chocks just for rig stability when occupied seems moot on a rig with such aggressive levelers that the wheels aren't even really functional anymore.

The OP also asked whether chocks have to be placed on both sides. I used to take this shortcut, until the day that we unhitched our rig on a brand new, visually level, smooth concrete pad, only to have the entire rig start slewing in an arc around the chocked wheels, sliding on its nose jack. Now we chock both sides before unhitching, every time.

The above is exactly what made me start using chocks on both sides.

[CaptnJohn]

I've done it all. The Fast Away I gave away. X chocks stay home in the garage. 4 $6 HF rubber chocks and 6 point hydraulic jacks and all is good. A little wiggle when the washer spinning an out of balance load is acceptable.

[DAMILLER_SR]

Great advice

[flybouy]

As it is with so many things RV, what works great for me may be junk for thee. So many variables from user error to a product that isn’t designed for that trailer. It’s like reading the reviews on Yelp or Amazon, use a bell curve and thro out the the glorification and the rants as the truth most likely lies in between.

[adeakins]

Originally Posted by Canonman

Never seen this style before. I think there are much easier to use chocks available, i.e. the harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-..._psugg_q=chock
I use these ground chocks when loading and unloading the Cougar. If we're staying a few days and I want more stabilization I will add the "X" chocks.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel...ag=googhydr-20

I have a version of this style. Used them in my prior and current 5’er. I prefer this style because they prevent even the smallest wheel movement which ground chocks won’t.

[geeman]

I have never liked X Blocks
I have also made a custom set of cedar blocks with recessed nut and no wreck needed. Love them and nothing moves.

As to the more important question of are chicks needed. Yes. If you have used any type of x-block or blocks you will find once in a while that when you come to tear down, the blocks are somewhat lose. This is due to the tires cooling down and losing diameter. I have even made it a practice to check or to tighten after as couple hours. Would never want to TT to roll...chock it.

I have seen numerous blocks of both types simply hanging between the tires the next day over the years....hello rollaway.

Be safe and Camp On!

[BrooksFam]

Originally Posted by geeman

.................

As to the more important question of are chicks needed. Yes. ……...

Be safe and Camp On!

Freudian slip??

[geeman]

Originally Posted by BrooksFam

Freudian slip??

YES, chicks are needed too!!

As are the chocks.....