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Old 12-17-2014, 03:55 PM   #41
Pulln
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith948 View Post
A truism to ponder...
Life is like a roll of toilet paper....The closer you get to the end...the faster it seems to go!
Man that is hilarious!
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:57 PM   #42
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what are yalls thoughts on using a hole saw next to the two hard to reach tie downs and then using some soft of knockout plate to cover the hole? A hole is the floor is not the most desirable way to solve it but dropping the tanks each time it needs to be done doesnt sound like a game winner every time either.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:14 PM   #43
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Just how often do you figure you'll be replacing the hardware?

Since the ability of the tie down to hold a load depends on the integrity of the floor, I wouldn't be too quick to cut holes in it.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:58 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulln View Post
what are yalls thoughts on using a hole saw next to the two hard to reach tie downs and then using some soft of knockout plate to cover the hole? A hole is the floor is not the most desirable way to solve it but dropping the tanks each time it needs to be done doesnt sound like a game winner every time either.
Possibly installing this type of "hole cover" would work ???

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...lack--11743044

This one is plastic, but I've got a couple on my bass boat that are aluminum..

If you do decide to use this type solution, be very careful what you cut and how deep you go. There is a multitude of "tigers" under the floor, make them "angry" and they may "bite you" where you least expect it.........
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Old 12-19-2014, 03:28 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Just how often do you figure you'll be replacing the hardware?

Since the ability of the tie down to hold a load depends on the integrity of the floor, I wouldn't be too quick to cut holes in it.

not too often i hope and did consider that as well. I think with the right knockout plate and the fact that all three bolts will go though the frame that it will be ok, I hope . Plus if I do it I'll be 6 to 9 inches away from the tie down.

Thanks for getting my back. This is exactly the kind of feedback I need.
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Old 12-19-2014, 03:30 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Possibly installing this type of "hole cover" would work ???

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...lack--11743044

This one is plastic, but I've got a couple on my bass boat that are aluminum..

If you do decide to use this type solution, be very careful what you cut and how deep you go. There is a multitude of "tigers" under the floor, make them "angry" and they may "bite you" where you least expect it.........

Thanks for the warnings and the product referral. I do plan on dropping the coroplast again and shooting some video between the tanks and the flooring with my GoPro camera before I GoAmature on my TH
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:33 AM   #47
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Pulln, Howdy;

I'm thinkin' JRTJH has a solid idea, the direction I would have gone were it
me with the question. When I worked on aircraft I was always (or at least
it seemed that way), having to work up inside some section of the body and
we used access holes that were built into the airframe to do so.
https://www.google.com/search?q=airc...w=1280&bih=673
As you can tell placement is sorta important, you want it close enough to
do the job, yet supported by the framework of the surrounding structure.
Looking at the pix you can get a good idea of how they do it.

hankaye
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:18 PM   #48
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Well unfortunately the frame that these tie downs mount to are port/starboard and they flush up to the tank so I can pass my hand under them.

Good news is that I have not drilled any 4" holes yet bad news is I am pretty sure I will have to drop the tanks to get to the bottom now. Man I hate bad news sandwiches
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:25 PM   #49
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But they taste good if your wearing rose colored glasses!!
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:44 PM   #50
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Pulln, Howdy;

You might head back to Fastenal and ask them about different types of
anchor nuts you might install so you can remove and re-install the bolts
from the top side in the future. Worth a shot... that way you only have
to drop the belly pan and tanks once.

hankaye
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:47 AM   #51
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Quote:
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But they taste good if your wearing rose colored glasses!!
Right! Only issue is that I don't have rose colored glasses with my prescribed lenses yet so it is all blurry and pink.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:56 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
Pulln, Howdy;

You might head back to Fastenal and ask them about different types of
anchor nuts you might install so you can remove and re-install the bolts
from the top side in the future. Worth a shot... that way you only have
to drop the belly pan and tanks once.

hankaye
So I ended up going with the following toggle bolts http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php. I found them in 1/4 and have a 265lb rating for drywall and 1080 lb in concrete. The toggles were easy to use so I am going to convert the deck plate holes I cut in to tie downs as well using the Brophy RR06 full swivel. I can always use the extra tie downs for small gear plus the tie down will sit more flush with the floor.

So I got a couple of extra tools and a ton of experience out of this.I appreciate everyones help in thinking out side the box with this.

Below is a picture of the finished work. I need to clean the floor some more but happy to have this weight off my shoulders and properly on the back of the TH
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:40 AM   #53
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Very nice! good job
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Old 12-20-2014, 02:06 PM   #54
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Pulln, Howdy;

Great to hear you found a solution!
Looks like a 'PRO' job, nicely done.

hankaye
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Old 12-20-2014, 03:37 PM   #55
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Thanks gents. Again I appreciate all the ideas.
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