Anderson Ultimate Hitch

[RollaMo]

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

So, basically stop obsessing w a 90 degree turn, use that hitch how it’s intended and be happy?��

I've never understood the need for a 90 degree turn.

You can't even come close to that sharp with a regular travel trailer?
So why to some think it is necessary with a 5th wheel?

Plus as mentioned, it is extremely hard on you trailer tires as you will be pushing them sideways more than rolling.

[JRTJH]

As Greg posted, a "standard hitch travel trailer" is doing well to come close to 45 degrees without taking out the tow vehicle tail lights and crushing the front cap of the trailer. I agree with him, "what is this obsession with 90 degrees "because the hitch can be manipulated to achieve such an angle" ???

Every travel trailer owner I know can put their trailer where it needs to be with "a 45 degree max angle capacity"... Why then, can't a fifth wheel owner do the same thing ???

There are multiple threads on this (and any other fifth wheel forum) where owners have twisted spindles, bent/broken spring hangers, caused tread separation on their tires and other damage to their suspension/undercarriage.

No fifth wheel owner that I've talked to has ever given me a "good reason why they have to back at a 90 degree angle or why they need that capability for their rig". And, when you think about it, even with the capability to back at 90 degrees on flat ground, add a little incline or a slope to one side and you can still "crush your bed rails when the trailer gets off level"....

I'd think back to when you were in a situation where you "had to crank the rig to 90 degrees or else"... There may be a few, but every one I've been the "victim" of has always resulted in just old fashioned jockeying multiple times to accomplish the same result without the stress on my trailer suspension or my truck cab.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

So, basically stop obsessing w a 90 degree turn, use that hitch how it’s intended and be happy?��

Why are you obsessed with a 90 degree turn? It does nothing but destroy tires very quickly and puts the driver/trailer in some awkward, precarious situations. I've never found a benefit from a 90 with a trailer with the exception of an emergency...once in all my years.

[KevinGwin]

Not sure, I guess I just thought i needed to be able to do it. You all have talked me out of my obsession, so thanks! I do need to widen my driveway a bit so I can complete the turn easier when I get home. Thanks again everyone, I’ll just run the Anderson ultimate hitch how it’s intended!

[sourdough]

Many people talk about being able to do a 90 degree turn. Maybe it's to gauge the ability of their combo...I don't know. I DO know that pushing a trailer at 90 degrees does nothing but tear up tires, stress the trailer frame tremendously and leaves you very blind. Don't worry about it. Take care of the trailer and components and if it's that bad just do the little "walk" incrementally working the trailer in - your RV and tires will thank you.

[travelin texans]

My 1st big 5er (38'+) we had a very narrow driveway over a culvert so I couldn't miss or else with a very narrow street & after the 1st time attempting to back in in a very awkward 90° situation I figured out the correct way to back a 5er & could do it with ease.
You don't line it up as you would a TT, it's different, once you figure it out it's easily done, well maybe not easy but better.

[ShotgunZ71]

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

Not sure, I guess I just thought i needed to be able to do it. You all have talked me out of my obsession, so thanks! I do need to widen my driveway a bit so I can complete the turn easier when I get home. Thanks again everyone, I’ll just run the Anderson ultimate hitch how it’s intended!

I widened the end of my driveway to match the front of it for the same reason. Much easier to back in my TT and fifth wheel without tearing up grass or having to turn so sharp.

Happy Camping!

[hlh1]

I have a gravel driveway that's about 60 feet wide, just wide enough that I can go full lock on the F150 steering wheel and turn around the truck and TT going forward. The truck is at 90 degrees to the trailer and the trailer pivots on the tires in the loose gravel while pulling forward. The truck and trailer just clear each other and nothing gets the damaged. This would not work if I had the driveway paved as it would really tear at the tires.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I have a gravel driveway that's about 60 feet wide, just wide enough that I can go full lock on the F150 steering wheel and turn around the truck and TT going forward. The truck is at 90 degrees to the trailer and the trailer pivots on the tires in the loose gravel while pulling forward. The truck and trailer just clear each other and nothing gets the damaged. This would not work if I had the driveway paved as it would really tear at the tires.

You're doing this on "loose gravel" and the tires "roll the rocks like ball bearings" so they aren't as likely to be damaged in those "skid the tires turns"...

I would imagine that it's very possible that some (maybe many) of the heavy fifth wheel owners who report tire blowouts while towing that cause thousands of dollars of damage to their trailer, just might be the victim of their own demise. We all know it "can't be good for your tires" to skid sideways on concrete or blacktop roads found in many campgrounds. I wonder just how many of those "90 degree turns" are the cause of tread separation that later result in tire blowout and trailer damage ?????

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I have a gravel driveway that's about 60 feet wide, just wide enough that I can go full lock on the F150 steering wheel and turn around the truck and TT going forward. The truck is at 90 degrees to the trailer and the trailer pivots on the tires in the loose gravel while pulling forward. The truck and trailer just clear each other and nothing gets the damaged. This would not work if I had the driveway paved as it would really tear at the tires.

Lee be aware that whether on gravel or not pushing the trailer sideways puts a tremendous amount of strain and pressure on the suspension and tires. Your 7k lb. gvw trailer is suspended in the air on axles/tires attached to spring packs attached to spring hangers, shackles/links etc. all just bolted together. Those hangers are the lightest weight metal they can get by with and are meant to hold the springs during vertical motion, they aren't engineered to withstand being pushed sideways with 7k lbs. sitting on top of them.

I would encourage you to find a better way to maneuver if possible. I've seen damaged suspensions and lots of pics of cracked hangers, broken spring packs....you name it. If it were me I would be under the trailer inspecting every component in the suspension for cracks, bends, wallowed out bolts. When I had my suspension replaced we went with all HD components with wet bolts. The owner said the weak OE components many times had cracks, bends etc. that the owner never knew about. Just a few thoughts.

[hlh1]

I will have a good look at the suspension before my next trip, just to make sure I've not messed it up.

[hlh1]

I crawled under the TT and had a look around. I found two of the small leaf straps had moved forward and off the forward side of the leaf springs. I was able tap them back onto the the springs with a hammer. Everything else looked normal to me.

[sourdough]

Excellent! Did you look those spring hangers over good? They aren't very strong. He showed me pics of a couple that had cracked down in the lower corners where they attach to the frame.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Excellent! Did you look those spring hangers over good? They aren't very strong. He showed me pics of a couple that had cracked down in the lower corners where they attach to the frame.

I looked real close at everything with a flashlight to make sure I didn't miss anything. Like John said, maybe the "ball bearing" gravel has kept me from messing anything up.

[JRTJH]

To illustrate what Danny was saying about the factory using "minimal engineering standards" when they design these things we call "rolling nightmares about to self destruct", here a photo of what the "OEM spring shackles/pins look like" and what the Mor-ryde shackles/pins with brass bushings look like...

As you can see, the "factory stuff" is much more likely to twist and bend (or even break) in "heavy side force turns" than the aftermarket heavier duty parts.. That said, if you do install a Mor-ryde kit with HD shackles, all you'll be doing is moving the "weakest link" either lower/closer to the spindles/bearings and tires or higher/closer to the spring hangers and frame rails.

There's no easy solution to try to make these "minimally engineered things" (factories like to call it "half ton towable" or "helium technology") into "indestructible tanks that can withstand anything we throw at them"....

Protecting them by not abusing them is the best compromise, at least IMO....

[rlh1957]

Most fifth wheel manf went to a rounded corner cap type years ago to help with turning cab contact.
Everyone needs to forget about 90 degree truck to 5’ver ability. The stress you put on your axels and side load on your tires will really cost you dearly.
A sharp turn like that is not as bad on gravel or grass, but solid pavement can pop tires off the rim (saw it happen), mess up axle alignment as much as hitting a curb.
Just pull forward a few inches, turn wheels slightly, align and and back in. Might take a few forward & back adjustments.

Using a double ball offset is never a good idea. Adds another stress and crack layer. Moving the weight too far forward or rearward of axle covers a whole list of new problems that could surface. “Been fine so far” isn’t much consolation after failure.
My rig has Anderson hitch mounted as specified, connector mounted forward on the king pin and I have a crew cab short bed, SRW F350. Never had sharp turning issues going forward. Never approached the hard truck to 5’ver angles everyone obsesses over.
I don’t want to tear up my camper or damage property owners drive or site.
Go in your yard or gravel lot and try to back it that sharp, then pull off and see how the wheels and axles dug up the ground. That jack-knife position is hard to unhitch from, as well as destroying tires.

Sorry I’m long winded and opinionated.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I looked real close at everything with a flashlight to make sure I didn't miss anything. Like John said, maybe the "ball bearing" gravel has kept me from messing anything up.

If you haven't already done so I'd strongly recommend, especially if you plan to continue this U turn maneuver, getting one of the heavy duty shackle/wet bolt kits John pictured & replace the thin factory shackles & plastic bushings.
It would also depend on the rock on your drive as to whether it's gravel that rolls like all bearings or crushed rock that's like glass shrades.

[Sooner]

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

I finally ditched my slider, so I could have a truck bed again. I got an Anderson ultimate hitch that goes in my B&W gooseneck mount. It obviously has the offset, and I’ve mounted the adapter forward for more clearance. I also bought the ball hitch that gives another 4” offset back from the bed receiver. Has anyone else experienced this set up, towing w the weight set back from the axle that far, is it fine? I’m able to do complete turns in my short bed just making sure it’s fine to pull down the road.

We have switched to the Anderson goose neck. We also have a short bed, and have set it up a bit behind where the king pin hitch was. We LOVE it. Going down the road with less bucking and we seem to have a smoother ride.
Much better control and turning ability. We have a tight turn (not a U turn) into the driveway where we park the 5th wheel and since this change, it is so much easier and far less stressful.