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Old 07-06-2020, 07:17 PM   #1
twvette
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Detailing/Recovering nasty grey Filon (Fiberglass'ish stuff) ... SUCCESS !!!!

The teaser (pre on left, post on right):
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The journey with my Fuzion has not been easy for me but have been able to mostly overcome everything so far. The latest and perhaps biggest is recovering the grey Filon (fiberglass'ish) to something reasonable.

I will first admit four years of AZ sun, storing at sand dunes 1/2 of its life, and storing hooked up at a high elevation RV park the other 1/2 of its life have not been kind to it. Neither was me thinking paying a "detailing company" to maintain it "properly" at $1 per foot price it turns out. It now is fortunate to be living in an RV garage so was time to recover it or get rid of it and frankly I thought the latter was going to be the solution after some previous "basic attempts" to "wax" it or similar with some highly recommended products yielded no real improvement.

Note the below was three weeks of work for me including a lot of trial and error. I basically touched every inch at least 7 times including multiple polishing steps and far from fun since all surfaces are vertical, but the results kept me going. Its still not perfect but I got three "that's a beautiful rig" or similar at the two gas station stops I made last trip when had not heard that since close to being new.

Will start with what did not work. Expensive stuff including F11 Topcoat and Shine Armor Ceramic Spray did little even though good luck with these on maintained auto paint. Alternative stuff 303 Aerospace helped a little but it came off with first rinse. Nu-Finish and Meguiar's Marine wax added a little gloss but still not good. The one step polish/wax like Meguiar's Marine/RV and Chemical Guys one step were only ok despite them being the common recommendation you will likely find even with a good polisher. What it comes down to is there was just a lot of oxidation and previous bad wax on it so needed a true multi step "paint correction" polishing to bring it back.

OK, so here is my final recipe for success:

1. A good Dual Action (DA) polisher (I bought Torq/Chemical Guys 10FX). With this type of polisher you wont burn through anything yet get very good polish. A cheap polisher is not powerful enough either as tried one too.
2. Wash and clean very well to remove any obvious dirt and grime as dont want anything getting on the polishing pads.
3. Mothers Speed Clay 2.0 with Chemical Guys Clay Luber. Traditional clay also works well but very inconvenient and costly for as much area as an RV has. This is an optional step in general.
4. Chemical Guys V32 polish with their yellow polishing pad on high speed with multiple passes and more than typical pressure applied. Seems like creating a little heat with Filon will help avoid "blotchy" results in the end. I tried some generic pads and they did not hold up well. I tried wool pads but no better luck and much harder to clean/re-use them vs. the foam pads. You will likely want multiple pads to rotate (I went with 4) as they get really dirty so I changed with about every 10 foot section. Work carefully around graphics but I actually had no real issues as you have to go over the edges to get everything. Chemical Guys Pad Cleaner really did work well to clean all the pads with soaking in water.
5. Wipe off polish with wet micro fiber towel. Chemical Guys are the best I have found in terms of not falling apart.
6. Chemical Guys V36 polish with their orange pad on high speed with multiple passes and also more than typical pressure. Again multiple pads to rotate as will still get very dirty. I found no benefit in also doing their V34 in between or the V38 afterwards. I think this is due to filon vs. "paint" just needing a coarse and fine polish basically.
7. Wipe off polish with wet micro fiber towel.
8. Wipe graphics with vinegar and water mixture in spray bottle and micro fiber towel to remove water spots the best as well as any polish residue.
9. Wipe Filon with isopropyl alcohol spray and microfiber towel to remove any trace of polish residue, etc.
10. Your choice of wax, sealant, ceramic/hybrid, or venture into trying true ceramic coating. I went with Chemical Guys Jet Seal applied to all surfaces by hand. It needs to sit for 20 minutes but does come off easy. Also had good luck with NU-Finish. Did not like the results Meguiars RV/Marine wax surprisingly. I had very poor results with Chemical Guys Butter Wet wax. The Filon seems to have some texture and if don't get a really good coarse cut with the V32 above you will see it gets very "blotchy" after this step or in other words worse than what it looked like after polishing especially standing directly in front of the surface vs at an angle.
11. I am not to the "maintaining" step yet and even with storing it in an RV garage now I will be washing it at least every other trip, sealing or waxing it once a year or more, and using a spray like F11 topcoat or perhaps a ceramic spray in between. Will still probably need a V36 polish every few years.

The above might seem like I work for Chemical Guys LOL which I do not. Its just who I went with as had some of their more basic products for a while and most is just good stuff in my experience.

Its funny that when purchasing I was worried about it having so many black or other dark "stickers" but most of them held up extremely well, especially the glossy black ones! My front cap is paint so it held up well with the exception of the big FUZION sticker that I removed with a 3M stripe removal wheel.

I now understand why some places charge $5k+ for ceramic on an RV and could tell you my price would be much higher LOL. On that subject ceramic still needs to be maintained well in most cases and I suspect even more so on Filon.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:36 PM   #2
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Thank you very much for the excellent write up!

It always helps to know what works and doesn't in the real world.

Stay safe!
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:38 AM   #3
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Thank you Todd
Excellent timing on the post for me as I just bought the kit from Chemical guys. 3 pads with cleaner, V36 optical grade cutting polish and V38 final polish, and a spray bottle of pad conditioner. I didn't purchase the DA polisher, I do have a Bosch variable speed random orbital sander, which should suffice.

I have watched the chemical guys videos and numerous individual videos on the process. The trailer has oxidation on one side, and the rest looks pretty good. I haven't used the products yet due to heat and humidity but I am looking forward to it.

Thanks again for the post
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Old 07-07-2020, 09:05 AM   #4
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WHEW !!!! I'm exhausted just reading that process from "dull to shine"....

That said, thanks for the detailed explanation of the process. I'd be very interested to see how it holds up over the long haul. Seems to me a lot of products "give immediate gratification" but over time, tend to deteriorate rapidly.... Please keep us posted on how well it holds up and how much "elbow grease" it takes to maintain that excellent finished look.....
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Old 07-07-2020, 09:28 AM   #5
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I didn't have any luck with any of the Meguairs products. Like you said, I think filon needs a fairly aggressive pad. I used Chemical Guys pads, and wool pads as well. I don't recall if I used Chemical Guys compounds. I ended up with 3M Marine Fiberglass Restorer and Wax and a Porter-Cable buffer..
I couldn't stand the thought of doing that every 6 months or even every year. Traded the Montana HC in on a slightly used Landmark, with full body paint.
Yours looks good, real good.
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Old 07-07-2020, 07:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northofu1 View Post
V36 optical grade cutting polish and V38 final polish
I found the V32 AND yellow pad WITH extra pressure to generate some heat really to be the key for good results in all my experimenting. I initially though the V36 was doing just as good of a job alone and hoped to eliminate a step as looked really good after the polish, but when adding the sealant on top it was "blotchy" and I was baffled for a while. I finally added back in the V32 step first and and the majority of the "blotchy" results went away.

Here is what I mean when say "blotchy"
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Old 07-07-2020, 07:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Please keep us posted on how well it holds up and how much "elbow grease" it takes to maintain that excellent finished look.....
I am fairly sure this will hold. The key is getting it back to being a smooth slick surface when you touch it. The Filon still is not like auto paint it seems so did still feel some roughness and I think why it is so tricky. Also it looks even better after just the polishing steps but does not have a deep gloss, but still is a good indication as the polish does not contain any silicone, oils, etc. to give you false hopes ... "it is what it is" ... pure Filon after the polish cutting steps not something enhanced artificially. But true, only time will tell.

My last trip had over 10 miles of extremely dusty dirt forest roads and also very dusty in camp for a week so it was covered. Cleaned up very easily with a quick wash which is another great sign will hold.
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Old 07-07-2020, 07:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead View Post
I didn't have any luck with any of the Meguairs products. Like you said, I think filon needs a fairly aggressive pad. I used Chemical Guys pads, and wool pads as well. I don't recall if I used Chemical Guys compounds. I ended up with 3M Marine Fiberglass Restorer and Wax and a Porter-Cable buffer..
I couldn't stand the thought of doing that every 6 months or even every year. Traded the Montana HC in on a slightly used Landmark, with full body paint.
Yours looks good, real good.
I was close to going full body paint rig also ... will certainly when get rid of this rig.

Here is actual comparison of the Meguiars all in one vs. the multi step polish Chemical Guys if anyone is curious what I mean here too. These areas were side by side so same condition essentially. Trust me, I was hoping the one steps would work just as well as would save a ton of time LOL:

Meguiars one step (Chemical Guys one step was about the same) ... nice but can get much better:
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Chemical Guys multi step V32/V36:
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Old 07-08-2020, 02:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twvette View Post
I found the V32 AND yellow pad WITH extra pressure to generate some heat really to be the key for good results in all my experimenting. I initially though the V36 was doing just as good of a job and hoped to eliminate a step as looked really good after the polish, but when adding the sealant on top it was "blotchy" and I was baffled for a while. I finally added back in the V32 step first and and the majority of the "blotchy" results went away.

Here is what I mean when say "blotchy"
Attachment 28516
Yeah I know that look. It looks like it's smeared.
I have probably $500 worth of car polish and the 3M was the best of the bunch for me. I have some of the Chemical guys Butter Wax if I want a short lived deep gloss. We just returned from 2,000 mile road trip. I washed with Meguairs Ultimate Wash and Wax, the yellow snotty stuff, and used New Finish on the front cap to clean it. I've been using Klasse One Step with decent results on our cars. Sometimes top with Pinnacle carnuba. When the weather cools off here I might do that on the 5th. Not sure how long it will last though.
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:20 AM   #10
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Took some time today to attempt to bring back the passenger side of coach, oxidation is bad on this side. This is my first time compounding/buffing and first time using Chemical guys product. It came out pretty good considering it's hot (but shaded) and very humid.
I will have to go over the slide again as it did not get 100% of the oxidation. Really happy with it. Hit the other slide with the V38 and it came out really nice. Totally worth the time and effort. Supposed to be dry and cool on Sunday will finish it then.
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:35 AM   #11
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Slide 90% compound cut once. Front of coach pass through door only.
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:39 AM   #12
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Took some time today to attempt to bring back the passenger side of coach, oxidation is bad on this side.
Yours does look like similar condition mine was to start with including the water lines, etc. Once put a sealant/wax on top after the polish can then really start to tell if got all the oxidation, etc. off as if not will get that "blotchy" look I had at one point.
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Old 07-27-2020, 12:08 PM   #13
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Very interesting. Just purchased the 3M restorer and have not received yet. So you were able to lap onto the graphic decals but just stayed off as best you can? Or did you polish up to the graphics by hand?

I assume the graphics would not take kindly to the cutting compound....
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Old 07-27-2020, 12:27 PM   #14
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It didn't seem to affect my decals. I do need to cut more off the one side of the trailer. Cooler drier weather would be nice.
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Old 07-27-2020, 03:51 PM   #15
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Even the heaviest cutting compounds I tried still seemed like not much more than wax. I think the pad has just as much influence on cutting too. The wool will be the most aggressive and then there are the different colored foam pads most have switched to. The pads also don't seem that much different, but I did get much better/deeper cut when finally got the yellow foam pads vs. the orange using the same compound and also felt a bit more heat being generated (but I also increased my pressure and slowed my speed down a bit).

In other words, it seems to be very small differences from least to most aggressive cut compound. Only in a few spots where my graphics already seemed to be a bit more damaged already did I notice it seem to slightly fray the edges when going over them with the polisher. I think the key here is to lighten up on pressure when get close to the graphics and the dual orbit type are likely much more friendly than others. I was very concerned about this too but in the end it was almost a complete non issue. Stay off the graphics as much as possible and just hand wax/coat them if in good shape ... 1/2 my rig is graphics.
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Old 07-29-2020, 11:55 AM   #16
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Coleman Light 1805RB

Twvette -

Great post as I'm also a fan of Chemical Guy's products as well and own the Torx 10FX and all the other items you indicated. I've been working on the front cap of my 2018 Coleman 1805RB which exhibits the notorious oxidation issues. I'm working on one area at the moment but found that I had to wet sand it first and started with V32 and then Orange pad. I did follow-up with the Butter Wax but wondering if that was a mistake. In direct sunlight it looks splotchy but in the shade it's almost a mirror. Will try following up with the V36/38 and white pad and then Jet Seal to see how she looks in the sunlight again. Thanks for the tips and I'll post more updates soon.

Pic one is an area not corrected and shows the full oxidation. Pic two shows the area wet sanded and polished and the final is just wide angle of the entire front cap
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Old 07-29-2020, 02:50 PM   #17
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Tennessee_Rebel - Looks good! I suspect I too could have really benefited from a wet sand but I was way too nervous to give that a try. My front cap took the most sun too with a lot of graphics on it, but luckily its also my only painted area underneath rather than Filon. Once got the really bad graphics off it looks good now but front caps sure could benefit from a clear bra or similar when new as still just gets beat from going down the road.

The "blotchy" is tough to see in pics and comes and goes with different angles and lighting. I tried just stopping at V32 and did not work well for me so added back in the V36 and then sealed. I would give the yellow pads a try with V32 and additional pressure/passes on the polisher ... that was really the key on mine to not be "blotchy". Did the V36 on the orange pads.
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Old 09-23-2020, 03:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Once put a sealant/wax on top after the polish can then really start to tell if got all the oxidation, etc. off as if not will get that "blotchy" look I had at one point.
Thanks for the all the advise. I started on my trailer this week as one side gets more sun and was getting ugly. I had tried Maguires in the spring was disappointed. So ordered up the Chemicals guys kit and a few extra pads. I’ve made 2 passes with V32 to get it even. Hopefully tomorrow I will be on to polishing!
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Old 09-24-2020, 10:54 AM   #19
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No problem. i also went back and touched up my first area where I was still learning that was extremely blotchy a couple weeks ago. With multiple passes/going slow with V32 on yellow pad and extra pressure cleared it. Still did the V36 on orange pad and then Jet Seal. I sure wish they had like a V30 as this Filon seems to be tough stuff to get a really good base correction. I might reach out to them at some point as even if they could come up with some additive that has a little more coarse grit to it to add would be nice.
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Old 09-24-2020, 12:10 PM   #20
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The Chemical Guys products work very well and helped greatly with my front cap. However due to the well known issues with the gelcoat/uv protection flaws I gave up polishing it constantly and went with a vinyl wrap fix. It actually turned out fantastic and only set me back $500
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