Dometic Fridge will not work on LP

[anuccite]

Brand new Premier 26RB TT. Works fine on Electric....
Dometic DM2852
30-40 Seconds after unplugging from electric "check Light" comes on and stops cooling.

I hear it click like it's attempting to light, but I never see flame.

I checked all the fuses in breaker panel, and the 2 in the access panel outside.

I also checked to make sure the final cut off knob was on (in access panel)

I have an appointment next Friday for a camping world to look at it. But If there anything else I can check before I make the 1.5 hr trip each way?

Am I missing some valve that they maybe didn't show me? I have LP to water heater and furnace and outside kitchen.

[yolo2rv]

hello, Are your LP tank valves open? If they are open light your stoves to bring the gas up through the lines. wait a few minutes shut off your stoves, switch your fridge to auto and it should fire up.

[sourdough]

Where is your fridge in relation to the other appliances you mentioned (furnace, outside kitchen, HWH)? Is the fridge further away? If so light the kitchen stove and let it run on all burners then try switching the fridge to LP. If that doesn't work and everything else does, is the fridge in a slide? Look under the slide and make sure the LP line isn't kinked or knicked.

[JRTJH]

The refrigerator "flame" is about the same size as the old-fashioned pilot light size flame. As such, it uses a minute amount of propane and it takes "almost forever" to purge all the air out of the lines before the refrigerator will operate properly. Your trailer has the stove/oven/refrigerator in a slide. There is a flexible propane line under the trailer that allows for the slide to move in and out without kinking the propane line. There may be a problem with that line, but if the stove is operating properly, chances are it's OK. That leaves the small 3/8" tubing from the stove to the refrigerator that's probably filled with air that is likely the problem.

The sequence for refrigerator lighting is this:

First, priority is given to electricity. So, if you're on shore power the refrigerator will "ALWAYS" select electric operation. You can over-ride this by choosing LP rather than AUTO on the eyebrow control panel. If you select LP, the refrigerator ignition sequence begins. The control board will open the gas valve, call for three ignition attempts. If the flame sensor "senses" ignition, the control valve remains open and the refrigerator cools on LP. If the flame sensor does not "sense" ignition before the third attempt, the gas valve closes, the refrigerator "fault" light illuminates and the refrigerator stops cooling.

Typically, it takes up to 4 or 5 complete "three cycle failures" until all the air is purged out of the lines. You may have only tried one or two times and still have air in the lines. My suggestion would be to keep trying. It's likely the trailer was checked out before you purchased it and the refrigerator was working at that time, so it probably isn't a failure but rather is something simple.

One last consideration, is your refrigerator slide extended? If it's not, you may have a kinked LP hose under your slide. The refrigerator should operate with the slide in either position, but if the hose carrier (big spring/folding plastic support) under the trailer is broken, the hose may kink with the slide pulled in. That would cause the failure you're having.

After several more "lighting attempts" let us know the results you get.

Good Luck,

[Steve/]

I normally run my stove which is next to my frig to make sure I have gas/pressure.
Then troubleshoot frig.

[Owl]

I had the same issue a couple of years ago until I thought to run the stove first and no issues since.

[anuccite]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The refrigerator "flame" is about the same size as the old-fashioned pilot light size flame. As such, it uses a minute amount of propane and it takes "almost forever" to purge all the air out of the lines before the refrigerator will operate properly. Your trailer has the stove/oven/refrigerator in a slide. There is a flexible propane line under the trailer that allows for the slide to move in and out without kinking the propane line. There may be a problem with that line, but if the stove is operating properly, chances are it's OK. That leaves the small 3/8" tubing from the stove to the refrigerator that's probably filled with air that is likely the problem.

The sequence for refrigerator lighting is this:

First, priority is given to electricity. So, if you're on shore power the refrigerator will "ALWAYS" select electric operation. You can over-ride this by choosing LP rather than AUTO on the eyebrow control panel. If you select LP, the refrigerator ignition sequence begins. The control board will open the gas valve, call for three ignition attempts. If the flame sensor "senses" ignition, the control valve remains open and the refrigerator cools on LP. If the flame sensor does not "sense" ignition before the third attempt, the gas valve closes, the refrigerator "fault" light illuminates and the refrigerator stops cooling.

Typically, it takes up to 4 or 5 complete "three cycle failures" until all the air is purged out of the lines. You may have only tried one or two times and still have air in the lines. My suggestion would be to keep trying. It's likely the trailer was checked out before you purchased it and the refrigerator was working at that time, so it probably isn't a failure but rather is something simple.

One last consideration, is your refrigerator slide extended? If it's not, you may have a kinked LP hose under your slide. The refrigerator should operate with the slide in either position, but if the hose carrier (big spring/folding plastic support) under the trailer is broken, the hose may kink with the slide pulled in. That would cause the failure you're having.

After several more "lighting attempts" let us know the results you get.

Good Luck,

Great info Everyone...... Here is what I did this AM.

My stove is also in the Slide next to the Fridge....

I started the Stove (which took a few seconds to get going)
I removed shore power to test Fridge... No dice.
I found where LP connects to slide, Pic below (if it works) Flexible line to slide, Copper once in slide
I found an access panel between stove and fridge (hoping there was a shut off in there.) No dice
I then threw a meter on the LP valve and reset the fridge for another cycle. Valve got power, and I could also hear it click on, I can also hear the ignitor clicking away in the access panel....

After about 30 seconds it quits, and goes into check.....

I tried this about 10 times hoping the lines as suggested just needed to be purged....

[anuccite]

Also, No where I can see the copper tubes do they look damaged,

[chuckster57]

If you can get the wind guards off, check the gap between the igniter and the burner. Your looking for about 1/4”. Too close or too far away will cause issues, and the tip needs to be about 1/2 way across the burner.

[anuccite]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you can get the wind guards off, check the gap between the igniter and the burner. Your looking for about 1/4”. Too close or too far away will cause issues, and the tip needs to be about 1/2 way across the burner.

I didn't want to take too much apart...... But this looked odd to me...

there is about 1/2 in gap there.

[chuckster57]

That gap at the orifice tube to burner is fine. It’s the igniter/flame sensor that I’m referring to.

[Steve/]

The picture with the meter leads, the little brass knob is the final shut off you have been turning?
The gap look about right,same as mine.

[anuccite]

Originally Posted by Steve/

The picture with the meter leads, the little brass knob is the final shut off you have been turning?
The gap look about right,same as mine.

Yes, It was in the correct position when i checked it.

[chuckster57]

Now that I'm on my desktop computer, looking at the picture of the orifice, it looks like its loose.

[anuccite]

Brought it in to CW, turns out the control board is bad. They are ordering one.

[chuckster57]

Glad they figured it out.

[Steve/]

Thanks for posting follow up.

[anuccite]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Glad they figured it out.

The LP valve was opening, because I was able to light it with a stick lighter..... I figured it was under warranty.... I'd let them square it away

[sourdough]

You know.....control boards..

My trailer is just over 3 years old and I've had to replace the "control boards" on the furnace and water heater....guess I will wait for the fridge, except ours is a Norcold and it has been super.

Glad you got it fixed.

[chuckster57]

Like rolling the dice. One works for 15 years and the next one works for 15 minutes.