2018 Alpine

[Pearlboxer1]

Hello Keystone friends,

I have a 2018 Alpine and I somehow burned the electric part of my water heater. I used my icommand to switch to propane and now I get hot water. Somehow I burned the electric component to the water heater and I wanted to know if anyone knows how to access the panel in the basement by chance? I’ve tried calling the company that manufactures; however, they are closed do to the corona virus.

Be safe and thank you.
Michelle

[Big1]

you should see it on the panel along were you control the awing and slides.


Welcome to the forum.

[Gary R.]

Hello Michelle, and welcome to the forum!

On our Alpine, we have a Suburban water heater. Keystone did not install an inside switch for the electric element, just a switch for gas operation. I plan to rectify that soon.

The switch for the electric element is on the front of the heater. Remove the outside cover, and you should see a small black rocker switch in the bottom left area of the panel. Flip this switch to activate the electric. Be sure not to turn it on with an empty water heater, or the element will be destroyed.

Hopefully you will find it there on your Alpine! Have a great day!

[ctbruce]

Look here on the outside. Are you certain you do not have a switch inside also? Both would have to be on to work electrically.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Pearlboxer1

Hello Keystone friends,

I have a 2018 Alpine and I somehow burned the electric part of my water heater. I used my icommand to switch to propane and now I get hot water. Somehow I burned the electric component to the water heater and I wanted to know if anyone knows how to access the panel in the basement by chance? I’ve tried calling the company that manufactures; however, they are closed do to the corona virus.

Be safe and thank you.
Michelle

Michelle welcome.
When you say you "burned the electric" can you expound? The water heater as 120vac and 12vdc electrical connections. The 12vdc must be present to operate the control board for operation on 120vac or gas. If you operate the wh on 120vac without water in the tank you will burn out the heating element.
If you are asking how to remove a "panel" in your basement are you talking about a wood partition or an electrical distribution panel? Some clarification on this along with the model number on your wh would help us help you.

[JRTJH]

In your first comment, reading between the lines, you "HAD" hot water using the electric function and NOW YOU DO NOT have hot water with only electric. Is that true? Further, the water heater works on the LPG function, so the valving and plumbing is operational.

Along with the switches mentioned above, there is a W/H circuit breaker on the power distribution panel. Turn it completely OFF, then turn it back to ON. Don't expect that "just pushing it back to ON" will untrip the circuit breaker.

It would be my "best guess" that if you haven't "accessed anything behind the water heater" then chances are there's nothing back there (valves or plumbing) that would be causing the problem.

I'd first "reset the circuit breaker", confirm the switch on the lower left corner of the water heater face is ON and if there's an "IN-COMMAND control function" make sure it's set correctly.

Water heater elements do burn out, but typically, if there is water in the water heater tank, they are reliable and not the cause of a "sudden electric function failure"....

[Pearlboxer1]

Yes, they are both on. My mechanic told me that he’s not sure how to access the board in the basement is what he told me.
I doubled check all switches and fuses. Ugh.

[flybouy]

Do you have a VOM (volt ohm meter), and know how to use it? In Pic #4, if you're wh looks like that have you pushed the black covered buttons where it says "push to reset"? They are the "high limit overloads" (one for gas operation one for 120vac) and to reset push in and they will reset with a "click".

[Pearlboxer1]

I will try it again. We had power go out here at the resort, could that have wrecked the electric element for the water heater?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Pearlboxer1

I will try it again. We had power go out here at the resort, could that have wrecked the electric element for the water heater?

It shouldn't but depending on what happened it could.

I'd strongly suggest getting an EMS (electrical management system). They make them that plug into the pedestal and they make "hard wired" units that get permanently installed inside. They do much more than a "surge protector". They will disrupt power if there is a wiring issue, if the voltage is too low or too high, and have a delay to save the air conditioner compressor if the power goes off and on in rapid succession.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Pearlboxer1

I will try it again. We had power go out here at the resort, could that have wrecked the electric element for the water heater?

Power going out seldom "wrecks a heating element". It could cause a problem with a blown circuit breaker, a open limit switch or the contacts on the power switch in the bottom left corner of your water heater. If there was a "power fluctuation, did (do) you have an EMS wired into your RV electrical shore power system?

[ChuckS]

Wh6 don’t you measure 120VAC power at the heating element. If you have power then you know element is bad...easy fix

If you don’t have 120VAC power at heating element that’s fairly easy to TS as well...

Also.. access to water heater control board is found on blank panels inside kitchen cabinet doors if your kitchen is up front like mine.

Remove the panel and control module is right on top of water heater..

Lastly.. if you have an Intervac central vacuum in that year Alpine the water heater circuit is wired into the Interface power management overload and the overload on the central vac ma6 have tripped during power surge..

Simply cycle circuit breaker to vacuum and cycle vacuum power switch to reset

[Roscommon48]

did you turn on the electric WITHOUT any water in the W/H tank? If so, you probably burnt out the element. My guess is you need to replace the element.

Right now, if you have hot water with LP life can at least go on.

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by Roscommon48

did you turn on the electric WITHOUT any water in the W/H tank? If so, you probably burnt out the element. My guess is you need to replace the element.

Right now, if you have hot water with LP life can at least go on.

CW has the anodes on sale now through the 12th for $14.50

[larryflew]

Firstly, in MY opinion you need a new mechanic if he thinks there is a missing "board" as there are no exotic controls to your water heater. Check the things mentioned above and you should be good to go.

[Pearlboxer1]

Where would the element be located? I believe want happens is, we loss water for the day when we were out and burned the element.
Thank you.

[Pearlboxer1]

Is the element the rod thing located on the outside panel next to the power switch?

[flybouy]

First the anode previously mentioned is the sacrificial metal installed in Suburban water heaters to stop tank corrosion.

The heating element (electrode) screws into the tank and has a wire attached to it.

[McRod]

Originally Posted by Pearlboxer1

Where would the element be located? I believe want happens is, we loss water for the day when we were out and burned the element.
Thank you.

This black plastic covers the heating element that my finger is pointing out. It requires a large, 1-1/2" socket to take it out.

The second pic is the heating element that's behind the black plastic cover. Cost about $12. Pretty easy to replace. 3 screws on plastic cover, unplug it and use large socket wrench to turn it out.

You can also see the on/off switch to the left of my finger that people have been referencing.

The only "control board" in the heater is the temperature sensor board. It's small, about the size of a laptop memory chip. Also easy to swap out. They rarely go out, and that would be my last resort change if nothing else works.

If your going to swap the element out, I would do the anode rod at same time (it should be changed annually). It's right beside it (see rusted area to right of my finger). Amazon sells a kit, with the socket, element, anode rod and water sprayer pick for $55. You'd still need a separate socket for the anode rod. (1-1/16" iirc).

Any Man, Woman or child can do this maintenance/repair. It's very easy. You don't need an electrical engineering or plumbing degree. Just a few simple tools and the parts I've shown you.