Lap Sealant Cracked and Separated on Roof

[canesfan]

I was cleaning the gutters and noticed a section of the sealant where the rubber roof meets the front cap has cracked and separated. It is pretty significant in size. Is this where I would use Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant that I read about often? I've never done a roof sealant repair. Also, what preparations do I need to make before using it? I assume I need to clean everything well, what kind of cleaner should I use?

Or would EternaBond be a better solution?

[slow]

This should help answer your questions:

http://dicorproducts.com/catalog/roo...-lap-sealants/

including the video at the bottom of the page.

[canesfan]

Thanks for that info. Since there's nowhere near me that sells it that I can find and it's going to rain tonight and tomorrow can I put duck tape over it temporarily? Wondering if peeling the tape off will hurt the rubber. Need to cover it with something handy though.

[slow]

Originally Posted by canesfan

Thanks for that info. Since there's nowhere near me that sells it that I can find and it's going to rain tonight and tomorrow can I put duck tape over it temporarily? Wondering if peeling the tape off will hurt the rubber. Need to cover it with something handy though.

Maybe duct tape a piece of plastic sheet that straddles the existing Dicor so you do not have to clean up the duct tape adhesive where you will apply the new Dicor.

[Yak]

Just fixed the same issue on my HTT. Ordered from Ebay, I'm going to reseal everything.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/151644706011

[Alpine]

Another great how-to video.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzAjZbCEbLU

[canesfan]

Thanks for all the info. Taped a piece of plastic over it as suggested. Now I need to wait for the Dicor to get here and it to stop raining.

[Desert185]

Timely post, as I'm doing this today with Dicor and 303 in hand.

[canesfan]

Originally Posted by Desert185

Timely post, as I'm doing this today with Dicor and 303 in hand.

Wondering what you are using to clean it with? After looking at everything I'm leaning towards Dawn and a semi-stiff brush, then alcohol. If something I have on hand will do the job why spend $20 for a "special" bottle of cleaner? I get tired of buying "special" stuff that usually isn't all that special and more times than not doesn't work as advertised.

Also in one of the videos posted he was using mineral spirits. Mineral spirits is a solvent. I would not use that on or near a rubber roof, or am I wrong?.

[JRTJH]

In "some" instructional videos you'll find that mineral spirits are OK. The DICOR site suggests this, while on other sites, the recommendation is to NOT use any petroleum products.

Personally, I've always used "blue" Dawn and hot water, a good nylon bristle brush and followed with a good rinse with cool water, then a good "wait" for things to dry. Just before applying DICOR sealant, I wipe with alcohol and allow it to dry. I try to apply DICOR in the early morning (after the dew has dried) so it has all day to cure before the "nighttime humidity" sets on the surface.

While I'm under no illusions that this is the "only" or the "approved" method, it's worked for me since EPDM and TPO roofing membrane has been the "industry preference".....

[Desert185]

Dicor lists the contents to contain "petroleum distillates", so using a towel dampened with mineral spirits to clean the immediate area shouldn't be an issue. I had a gallon of alcohol in the shop, so I used that.

The process as I see it:

Clean areas where Dicor is to be applied.
Apply Dicor.
Let dry.
Wash roof with Dawn solution.
Let dry.
Apply 303 to roof.
Follow directions on 303 and dry with towel or follow directions on Youtube and let air dry. Beats me...haven't decided yet.
Do not fall off roof during this process.

[canesfan]

Thanks for all the input. Very helpful. Question - How long does this stuff need to dry before it can get rained on? The Dicor will be here on Monday, and of course it's Virginia in the Summer, so every afternoon there is a "chance" of thunderstorms. Just looked at the weather for next week and that's what it's calling for. Or I don't know if this is an option or not, can I let it set up for awhile and then cover it with plastic until it sets all the way? I have no idea how tacky/sticky this stuff is. This is thankfully the first time I've ever had to do this believe it or not.

[chuckster57]

If the surface is dry when you apply the Dicor, it should be good to go in about an hour. Temperature will affect "cure" time. I once applied eternabond in cloudy weather, sealed the edge with Dicor and it poured 15 minutes later. No leaks, but that's pushing it IMO. Once you apply it leave it alone, it is very sticky for a while.

[canesfan]

Ok thanks. I'll watch the weather and try to do it in the morning so it has time to cure before any afternoon storms. Appreciate all the help and advice. We'll see how it turns out.

[bobbecky]

Also, what wasn't said, is the Dicor sealant is non-hardening, so it never fully gets hard, but will skin over pretty quick, and that is enough to prevent any water damage from rain.

[canesfan]

Thanks for the reminder. I remember it stays somewhat "squishy".

Another question - the area I have to redo is about 2' long by several inches wide, some of the old Dicor is totally gone. Will this stuff flow into itself (so there won't be any seems) since I will have to make several passes with a tip that I'm guessing won't even be half an inch if I cut it as big as possible? Any tips or suggestions?

[chuckster57]

It will flow into the cracks. If you use a back and forth sideways motion as you progress down the seam it will all flow together and look "seamless". I normally fill the cracks and then use the above described method to cover the entire original surface.

[canesfan]

Ok, thanks again. That was pretty much what I was thinking of doing but wasn't sure if it would work or of the outcome. Now I'm hoping I got enough. I ordered 2 tubes, but after looking at it all I'm not sure that will be enough.

[JRTJH]

canesfan,

Hmmmm... Looking back, almost all the advice you've gotten is great advice: For a relatively small defect in the current DICOR sealant surface......

That said, a couple of your comments give me reason to wonder how big is the area you're going to repair. First you said, "It is pretty significant in size" and now, "I ordered 2 tubes, but after looking at it all I'm not sure that will be enough."

Just exactly how big is this "defect in the DICOR" ??? If it's 20 or 30 or 45" long and only a "crack in the sealant", then repairing it with an overlaying application of sealant will probably be all that's necessary.

BUT !!! If the defect you've got is wider, or if it involves the separation of the front cap and the TPO membrane, if the membrane has "pulled away" from the front cap, or if it's not adequately adhered to the OSB roofing sheets, or if there's "more to the story" than just what you've indicated is a "small defect in the current DICOR"..... Is there more to the story? Please, if you would, before you jump into "slapping two tubes of DICOR on your roof", take a moment and better describe what you're going to repair? Pictures if you can, and think they might help us better visualize your concerns?

Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but from "reading between the lines" I'm getting the impression that you might be dealing with a little more than just a "dried out crack in the current sealant".....

[canesfan]

JRTJH,

Thanks for the cautiousness. A couple of posts up you will see where I mentioned it's a couple of feet long and several inches wide and some of the original Dicor is gone. It does not appear the roof has pulled away from the cap. There is some small wrinkling of the rubber just where it meets the cap. I was thinking of taking a couple pictures to post. It's hot here but I'll see if I can get a few pictures. I need to check my patch job anyway in case we get a storm.