Dead Water Heater

[JKreative]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

That WH should easily last 20 years or more if properly cared for..

** If the pics posted showing the front of the WH are from your unit it looks like brand new from what I can see.
** Minor surface rust means nothing and is found on most of the WH units because folks never wipe them down after draining. etc

That WH is very very easy to troubleshoot... Its is very reliable in both 120 VAC and 12 vdc/lp modes of operation

Where is the unit "Rusted Out"??????

I would also not install anything else but what is in the unit.. The SW6DEL series beats any Atwood WH hands down

I would also highly suggest reading the manual on operation of the unit and watch this series of videos that explain some of the basics of that unit..

https://youtu.be/CO3XnDkJ1wU?si=iHDEfljMB54dSyK8
https://youtu.be/ilEt4PROv2A?si=onmgrN_gTeuZpHFP
https://youtu.be/OJFJjIgNV74?si=q5c8Ku-ctfaaJV7N
https://youtu.be/RAhQgCTnNcA?si=bIryJ6SWBqY8r38J
https://youtu.be/PCLo5engFkg?si=ux3L3TP1e2y7wgms

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...ser-Manual.pdf

Thank you so very much for your detailed response! This is why I love this forum!

20 years is great news! The photos are of my actual unit. I know now that I misspoke about being “rusted out”. I am so glad to learn the quality of the unit compared to other brands. Thank you again and I’ll be sure to watch all of your shared links!

[NH_Bulldog]

Another consideration is that if the water heater is in bypass (you need to be able to access the rear of the water heater from inside the RV), and you used electric mode on an empty water heater, the elements could very well be toast at this point. It will require a bit of work, but all easier and cheaper than replacing the entire unit. I have a similar gas/electric unit on my 30A service (water heater electric is 120v), and it has performed great with no issues

[JKreative]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

+1 on this reply...sorry I was replying before on my phone and stopped at the thought of nothing coming from the relief valve.



I'd post the reason you state it is non functional. If nothing is coming from this valve and you have the city water on, and all the faucets off...then I believe you have a bypass plumbed in and the tank is not getting anywater. DEpending on the plumbing, a HW heater can be bypassed but the hot and the cold water in the sink(s) work still. I'd take off the drain valve and turn on city water to ensure the tank is getting water. Then when the water runs clear cap that and open the HW at the sink in the trailer.


I do open up the relief valve when draining the HW tank AFTER IT IS COOL or after I have sanitized the entire system.


The worse think would be to install a new tank and find out is it some blown fuse/power/etc.

Hi and thank you for your response! I followed the instructions on this video but had no luck. I could not get any water out of the valve. City water is on and water comes from hot and cold faucets.

Also, I failed to mention that the ON/OFF switch on the unit is stuck in the ON position and cannot be pushed to OFF.

[JKreative]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

Another consideration is that if the water heater is in bypass (you need to be able to access the rear of the water heater from inside the RV), and you used electric mode on an empty water heater, the elements could very well be toast at this point. It will require a bit of work, but all easier and cheaper than replacing the entire unit. I have a similar gas/electric unit on my 30A service (water heater electric is 120v), and it has performed great with no issues

Thank you! I will try to access the rear and report back.

[NH_Bulldog]

Originally Posted by JKreative

Hi and thank you for your response! I followed the instructions on this video but had no luck. I could not get any water out of the valve. City water is on and water comes from hot and cold faucets.

Also, I failed to mention that the ON/OFF switch on the unit is stuck in the ON position and cannot be pushed to OFF.

It's ok that the switch on the unit is stuck in the "on" position, since it is one of two switches required to have it work in electric mode. The switch on the inside control panel you posted a picture of is the second one. Countless number of people have pulled their hair out because they never knew about the switch in the water heater itself and thought they had a dead water heater because the inside switch was on and it wasn't heating on electric.

But first things first, access the back side of the water heater to check the bypass. It should be accessible behind a panel under the kitchen range or from the side under the kitchen sink

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by JKreative

Also, I failed to mention that the ON/OFF switch on the unit is stuck in the ON position and cannot be pushed to OFF.

On the one hand, that shouldn't impede operation of the heater and there's no pressing need for the OFF setting. On the other hand, the "stuck" may indicate an overcurrent problem elsewhere in the heater that welded the switch. When you do get it operational, you may want to check DC amps in, just to make sure.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by LHaven

On the one hand, that shouldn't impede operation of the heater and there's no pressing need for the OFF setting. On the other hand, the "stuck" may indicate an overcurrent problem elsewhere in the heater that welded the switch. When you do get it operational, you may want to check DC amps in, just to make sure.

Outside switch for the heating element is prone to sticking because it’s outside and doesn’t get used a lot. I don’t have the inside switch in my trailer, I have to go out to the water heater and turn it on/off. I don’t really like to use a breaker as an on/off switch.

[johnnyRV]

Suburban water heaters have a steel tank which requires an anode to prevent tank corrosion.These need to be replaced at least once a year. AZ or other places of hard water at least every 6 months. and the tank flushed with water.



The outside on/off switch can get stuck and prevent operatoin in electric mode. easily replaced. be aware you are working with 120v at this switch


To properly refill a water heater once drained. Open the pressure relief valve turn on city water and wait until water comes out of valve and close. This sets the correct air gap in the water heater.


There is a check valve on the back side of the hot water outlet that can fail and prevent flow.


If the water heater was ran on electric without water in the tank it can fry the heating element.


Hope this info helps

[chuckster57]

"To properly refill a water heater once drained. Open the pressure relief valve turn on city water and wait until water comes out of valve and close. This sets the correct air gap in the water heater."

Do you have the documentation stating that?

If so I will stop doing it the way I was taught over 13 years ago.

[johnnyRV]

From suburban manual
One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket
at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design.
However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater.
To replenish this air pocket:
1. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water to
flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will develop.
Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping
of the P & T Valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may
elect to install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between
the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.
Contact your local dealer for assistance


\My process works the same and is the procedure I was taught a few years ago as a certified RV Tech

[chuckster57]

Read lines 5 and 6

I believe it says to CLOSE the pressure relief valve BEFORE turning on the water supply.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by johnnyRV

There is a check valve on the back side of the hot water outlet that can fail and prevent flow.

On a 2017, maybe not. My 2019 had no check valves, and as a result, anode sediment was actually migrating out the in-port and fouling my toilet intake screen and bathroom cold faucet. I had to have one added.

[jxnbbl]

In reading all these replies...I suspect water is not getting into the water heater- Correct?


I have never bled a water heater in my life and agree with the last few posts....but if you have a filled water heater and/or are filling the water heater (city water turned on and faucets closed)....either water or air should be coming out of the relief valve.


This has to be solved/corrected first.

[cougar23]

Sounds like water heater by-pass valves are closed for winterizing.

[TXiceman]

I do not recommend using the P/T valve to bleed the unit. Every time you lift the valve, that is one more chance that the valve will not repeat properly and will leak. The AL e is not an on- off valve but it is a safety device.

Once you have the bypass valve in the proper position, and the spigot or pump on, open a hot water faucet and run water until ther is no more air.

Ken