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Old 12-31-2020, 10:46 AM   #1
ColoradoWilc
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Question What do I need to know about using my new Honda 2200i with my Keystone Bullet 1900RD?

I spent $1000. Hope it was a wise investment. Can it run my refrigerator and lights and perhaps a plugged-in laptop? I can not find any easy list of energy requirements for the air-con, refrigerator, microwave, water pump/heater/ and lights. I wish a list existed that said "for these electrical components of your model of RV, this is the inverter generator you need." Help.
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:23 AM   #2
nied
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Does this help?
APPLIANCE AMPERAGE CONSUMED
Roof Air Conditioner (Continuous) 13 - 15
Convection Microwave 16
Electric Water Heater 10
Microwave 10
Converter 55 Amp Output 5 - 13
Space Heater 10-15
Refrigerator 3 - 4
TV or VCR 1
Hair Dryer 9
110 Volt Light 1
Curling Iron 3 - 4
Toaster (2 slice) 7 - 13
Coffee Maker 7
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:28 AM   #3
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In a word, Yes; you can run your 110vac accessories plus charge your batteries using your generator. As long as you stay below the 1800 watt capacity of the Honda. For example, your microwave probably uses 1000watts to operate. So you couldn't use your 1000 watt hairdryer at the same time. You need to look a the tags on your appliances and accessories and just make sure you don't exceed the 1800 watt output for the Honda.
You can look on line at the specific manufacturer and model for the A/C to get the specs on that as well as the M/W. Most everything else you list runs on 12vdc from your batteries. You use the generator to recharge your batteries. there is a converter in your Bullet that converts the 100vac of the generator to the 12vdc to run the 12 volt accessories.
You bought what most would consider the Cadillac of generators with the Honda.
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:38 AM   #4
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If you have an EMS, it has been said said that it won’t let the trailer power up and will show “open ground”. There are videos on the fix.
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:49 AM   #5
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Get yourself one of these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-RV-12...oAAOSwgrBd8rL2
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Old 12-31-2020, 01:00 PM   #6
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Old 12-31-2020, 01:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoWilc View Post
I spent $1000. Hope it was a wise investment. Can it run my refrigerator and lights and perhaps a plugged-in laptop? I can not find any easy list of energy requirements for the air-con, refrigerator, microwave, water pump/heater/ and lights. I wish a list existed that said "for these electrical components of your model of RV, this is the inverter generator you need." Help.
Your good, unless you want to run your AC. If so you'll need the companion to join them together. I have two of the 2k versions and have been using them for 5 yrs with no problems. They're expensive, but you wont ever have to by another generator. Just make sure you start them up and let them run a few minutes a couple times a year and add Stabil to the fuel.
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Old 12-31-2020, 02:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoWilc View Post
I spent $1000. Hope it was a wise investment. Can it run my refrigerator and lights and perhaps a plugged-in laptop? I can not find any easy list of energy requirements for the air-con, refrigerator, microwave, water pump/heater/ and lights. I wish a list existed that said "for these electrical components of your model of RV, this is the inverter generator you need." Help.
The electrical requirements for your model trailer are not specific to the trail but rather the appliances. You should have been given a packet of manuals for the appliances when you purchased the trailer. If not, you can search on the internet using the make and model number to find most any manual. Every appliance should have on it's label the wattage of the appliance when in use.

If it's listed in amps use Ohm's Law to convert. 10 amps X 120 volts = 1,200 watts. Therefore, simple math to find amps given watts would be 1,200 watts/120 volts = 10 amps. The converter (the device that charges the battery and supplies supplemental 12v dc) will be constantly drawing power. Now take your appliance ratings (how many watts or amps) each one draws and write that down. Then take the RUNNING wattage rating of the generator and write that down. Generators are rated at MAX watts and at RUNNING watts. The running watts ios as the name implies the maximum watts that should be used constantly. The maximum watts is how many watts the generator can supply for a brief period such as when a motor first starts.

That generator is rated for 1,800 watts continuous (that's 15 amps) so any combination of appliances up to 1,800 watts can be used at any one time.
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Old 12-31-2020, 05:57 PM   #9
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When we have dry camped in the winter while out in the desert, I usually run just one of our Honda 2000 watt generators. We have the trailer set up with the fridge and the water heater set to gas only, no 120 volt AC. We don't run the Air conditioner. When we want to use the microwave, especially first thing in the morning after starting up the generator, after not running it all night, we flip off the breaker that powers the converter, because it is using a lot of watts to recharge the batteries. I also flip the ECO switch to OFF which causes the generator to run at higher RPM. Once we are done using the microwave, the ECO switch is flipped ON and the breaker for the converter is turned back on. We've done this for years and have never had a problem.
We have a hardwired EMS, and just use a grounding plug in the generator receptacle, and never have the EMS not allow power through.
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Old 12-31-2020, 07:21 PM   #10
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I’ve been running two of the Honda 2000 units since 2014... you made an excellent purchase... I recommend you immediately start mixing either Seafoam or Stabil into your gas can and only use that..l

By doing so you will minimize the chance of any carb issues with your new unit..l have not had any issues running my EMS with the Honda’s...

I would not recommend trying to run your air conditioner with one 2200 unit.. you run a risk of damaging the AC unit...even though it is using either PTCR or OEM form of “soft start” ...

This link has a nice table to perhaps help you easily understand your power needs

https://www.steadypower.com/pages.php?pageid=133
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Old 01-03-2021, 07:58 AM   #11
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Some where I read a 30 amp trailer at 120 volts equals 3600 watts. To run everything in your trailer you would need a generator that would withstand the startup of your appliances
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoWilc View Post
I spent $1000. Hope it was a wise investment. Can it run my refrigerator and lights and perhaps a plugged-in laptop? I can not find any easy list of energy requirements for the air-con, refrigerator, microwave, water pump/heater/ and lights. I wish a list existed that said "for these electrical components of your model of RV, this is the inverter generator you need." Help.
Get a Kill-a-watt meter and measure whatever you want to run with the gennie. You will be pleasantly surprised to find that reality is generally better then published lists. The big electricity hogs are obvious, A/C, microwave, toaster, kettle, any resistance heater and compressor devices. Don't worry if you make a mistake the breakers will trip and now you know. With the Honda, you can add a model B and have twice the power. That is what I use for my 42' RV.
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Some where I read a 30 amp trailer at 120 volts equals 3600 watts. To run everything in your trailer you would need a generator that would withstand the startup of your appliances
Ohm's Law, Amp X Volts = Watts 30 amps X 120 Volts = 3,600 Watts.
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:27 AM   #14
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Some where I read a 30 amp trailer at 120 volts equals 3600 watts. To run everything in your trailer you would need a generator that would withstand the startup of your appliances
Actually 120V x 30A is 3,600 VA. Watts takes into account power factor. For purely resistive loads like heaters, toasters, coffee makers they are the same, but for things with motors not the same. Even as an electrician I often mix the two words but in my brain I know the difference.
For starting an AC install a soft start device, it changes the startup current so that a Honda EU2200 can start and run one AC.
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:41 PM   #15
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I try not to muddy the waters when presenting this info to someone that doesn't know.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:52 PM   #16
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Another thing to remember about the Honda 2000 watt generator is it is only capable of 13.3 amps continuous, and the Honda 2200 is capable of 15 amps continuous load, so to run anything more, you must have both a regular and a companion model of these generators to get to 26.6 amps for the 2000 watt models or 30 amps for the 2200 watt models. The companion model has the 30 amp twist lock outlet that you will need an adapter to convert to the RV plug, and it is a good idea to not use the little black plastic adapter but use a quality adapter such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Recepta...%2C266&sr=8-19
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Old 01-08-2021, 01:54 AM   #17
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If you have non-ethanol gasoline in your area use that and a stabilizer. Run it dry and drain the carb bowl.
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Old 01-08-2021, 05:06 AM   #18
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QUOTE=ColoradoWilc;427797]I spent $1000. Hope it was a wise investment. Can it run my refrigerator and lights and perhaps a plugged-in laptop? I can not find any easy list of energy requirements for the air-con, refrigerator, microwave, water pump/heater/ and lights. I wish a list existed that said "for these electrical components of your model of RV, this is the inverter generator you need." Help.[/QUOTE]

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Old 01-16-2021, 09:24 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by sonofcy View Post
Actually 120V x 30A is 3,600 VA. Watts takes into account power factor. For purely resistive loads like heaters, toasters, coffee makers they are the same, but for things with motors not the same. Even as an electrician I often mix the two words but in my brain I know the difference.
For starting an AC install a soft start device, it changes the startup current so that a Honda EU2200 can start and run one AC.
That depends on a couple of things. One being the elevation. Generators are rated for sea level (or just above) and you will get nowhere near the rated output at say 9000 feet. The other thing is the resistance of the power cord. If you can’t plug in your TT’s power cable, you had better get an adapter plug because extension cords will drop the voltage into the trailer’s converter with a load current. For example a space heater will draw down the voltage for the outlets throughout the trailer and it could be significant depending on the length of the extension cord and the size of the conductors.
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