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02-07-2022, 08:23 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 4
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Upgrade from 200i to 400i?
We have a 22MLS on the way, but I can still make adjustments to the build for a few days. I am seriously considering the upgrade to the 400i. Here's what I've broken down for ballpark costs to make the upgrade later.
Xantrex Freedom x 2000 watt inverter - 600.00
Additional 200 watt solar panel - 250.00
Upgrade charge controller (15 to 30) - 100.00
Battery shunt - 150.00
Total here is 1100.00, that doesn't include any extra connectors, wiring, etc. It also doesn't include labor, I'd probably do the upgrade myself. I don't believe the AC loop would be in the 200i package, so I'd be missing that.
My dealer says cost to do the factory upgrade is 1,680.00. It's a chunk of change, but when I look at how much the parts would cost me and the likely cleaner factory install, it looks like a fair deal.
I'm curious if there's something to this I'm not thinking of, opinions welcome.
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02-07-2022, 09:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Eugene
Posts: 314
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The first question should be… why? What are you looking to achieve and is that money going to accomplish your goals.
Lots of us here have spent 1k and up to 14k on solar setups. If you want to be solar only. That upgrade won’t do it.
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02-08-2022, 03:12 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 6,333
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Keep in mind that you are purchasing an entry level RV which will benefit not at all in resale with this equipment. Better that you should do the install so you can remove it when it is sold down the road. New owners most likely won't be interested.
__________________
Jim in Memphis, Wife of 51 years is Brenda
2019 F450 6.7 Powerstroke
2018 Mobile Suites 40RSSA
2021 40' Jayco Eagle
2001 Road king w/matching Harley sidecar
2021 Yamaha X2 Wolverine 1000
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02-08-2022, 08:17 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,758
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The other consideration if you financed the purchase would be the actual cost after payoff. You don't state if this is your first camper or not. If it's your first then you will be incurring a lot of costs after your delivery. The "rv starter kit" the dealer gives you is useless junk.
What's your objective and what's your expectation of what you will be able to do with the solar set-up? As stated above, the solar is not adequate to run the entire camper. That's a lot of money IMO just to say "I have solar panels" while setting under a shade tree plugged into a power pedestal.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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02-08-2022, 08:27 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norwood, CO
Posts: 685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines
Keep in mind that you are purchasing an entry level RV which will benefit not at all in resale with this equipment. Better that you should do the install so you can remove it when it is sold down the road. New owners post likely won't be interested.
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What Jim said.
Plus.....In today's reality the job you would do will be miles ahead in terms of quality than what the factory would do. Seriously. Check out almost any source on build quality right now.
Would cost you less and you would be sure of the quality of the work.
__________________
German Shepherd Guy
2018 Keystone 26RBPR
2014 Suburban 2500, 6L with 3.73 rear
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02-08-2022, 08:34 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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If you've ever worked on a rv you probably noticed that those workers must get paid by the foot to wire/plumb EVERYTHING & can't tell the difference between a 1/2" hole saw from a 3" hole saw or a hammer. I WOULD NOT have them do any reconfiguration of anything, you'll do a much neater, better, workable job yourself & most likely cheaper.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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02-08-2022, 02:55 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 4
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Thanks all, I appreciate the thoughts. We do have a desire to do some boondocking, and need cpap, that's probably worth mentioning. I do like doing my own work - it's definitely part of the joy of having 'toys'.
Decisions, decision.
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02-08-2022, 06:46 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 457
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Solar is the best upgrade I have done for Boondocking!
I have 300w of solar, wish I had 400w. I have 4 6volt batteries, wish I had 6. (Well, wish I had Lithium) Have a 3000w inverter, 2000 watt would have been just fine. The 3000w was on sale for nearly the same price as the 2000, but the 3000 uses more power whenever it’s turned on.
I also agree, probably better to have the system removable if needed for resale.
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02-12-2022, 01:30 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 7
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Solarflex
We bought a 2022 5th wheel with the 400i Solarflex package. It’s pretty much useless for boondocking. The converter/charger won’t charge lithium batteries. The 400w of panels aren’t adequate. Replaced the converter/charger. Working now to beef it up with more watts on the roof and another MPPT charge controller. We’ve always “solarized” our rv’s and basically will end up making a new system out of the installed equipment. Do your own work is my advice. 2000w inverter is adequate for boondocking imo and we use Xantrax inverter/chargers. This trailer came with an inverter only. I had expected more from a Future Solutions design.
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02-13-2022, 06:36 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: jackson
Posts: 1,122
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Having gone through this (thought I was getting a 200 solar flex, planning on upgrading...ended up being zamp prepped...so bought the parts to go the zamp route and installing).
You probably have a 12V fridge with no propane option, which is why I was insisting that I needed solar installed since I knew I needed the fridge to run for 4+ days on the batteries. Granted I had prewiring which I believe you will too. My findings were:
1. the 170W (each) panels were simple to install
2. The controller was easy to install and required no additional wiring.
3. I upgraded the batteries to 2 AGM batteries an an aluminum/locking battery box.
The most time was spend figuring out and attaching the battery box and I'd say it took maybe 4 hours for me to install everything (2 of the 3 panels)....which did exactly what I wanted it to do. Chill down about 3 cases of home-brew and keep it cold for an event!
With my calculations, adding the 3rd panel will give me 510W and should allow us to sustain the Harvest Host stays where generators are frowned upon (we won't be using the AC).
__________________
JXNBBL (Jay)
Jackson, NH
2021 Keystone 330BHS
2023 Ram 3500 6.7L diesel, 3.73 ratio
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02-13-2022, 07:52 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 7
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We have a propane fridge.
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02-24-2022, 08:53 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Pipe Creek
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampingCasual
We have a 22MLS on the way, but I can still make adjustments to the build for a few days. I am seriously considering the upgrade to the 400i. Here's what I've broken down for ballpark costs to make the upgrade later.
Xantrex Freedom x 2000 watt inverter - 600.00
Additional 200 watt solar panel - 250.00
Upgrade charge controller (15 to 30) - 100.00
Battery shunt - 150.00
Total here is 1100.00, that doesn't include any extra connectors, wiring, etc. It also doesn't include labor, I'd probably do the upgrade myself. I don't believe the AC loop would be in the 200i package, so I'd be missing that.
My dealer says cost to do the factory upgrade is 1,680.00. It's a chunk of change, but when I look at how much the parts would cost me and the likely cleaner factory install, it looks like a fair deal.
I'm curious if there's something to this I'm not thinking of, opinions welcome.
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Are you planning on long-term travel with this, are you planning on it being stationary, or are you planning on just boondocking with it??
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02-24-2022, 08:57 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Pipe Creek
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampingCasual
Thanks all, I appreciate the thoughts. We do have a desire to do some boondocking, and need cpap, that's probably worth mentioning. I do like doing my own work - it's definitely part of the joy of having 'toys'.
Decisions, decision.
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You might consider not going with those RV style panels, use larger wattage residential panels, even commercial panels. You can still roof-mount them, or you can make them portable if you have something to store them while traveling. They'll put out a whole lot more wattage, and you can use a larger charge controller and inverter.
I don't know how much roof real estate you have with that RV, so my suggestion would be do hinge them together and make them portable. Otherwise, from what I've seen, solar systems marketed by RV companies are more of a novelty than an actual function.
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02-24-2022, 09:02 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 4
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As I have done more research, I think two panels on the top will be nice, but additional panels I want to be portable so I can find the best sun.
I like the idea of bigger commercial panels for expansion, we all know anything for RV gets painted blue and marked up!
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02-24-2022, 10:27 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Pipe Creek
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampingCasual
As I have done more research, I think two panels on the top will be nice, but additional panels I want to be portable so I can find the best sun.
I like the idea of bigger commercial panels for expansion, we all know anything for RV gets painted blue and marked up!
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Our fifth wheel is currently stationary. I built a rack, and have almost 6,000 watts of continuous solar power. Even on a cloudcast day, we can run AC, space heaters, water heater, and pretty much everything on electricity. We use the generator, occasionally, at night, or prolonged bad weather.
That's not the kind of setup most people travel with, but it's working for us very well. What I'm saying is, these RV packages as you said, are marked up. They're novelties. People have to keep in mind that their air conditioning unit, residential fridge, TV set, all of that are going to draw more power than most packages provide.
In that case, it's better to think "outside the box".
Furthermore, we are using (2) 48-volt, 5.1KWh lithium iron phosphate rack-mounted batteries, to provide all AC and 12 volt power.
While it seems a little pricey up front, you don't have to do all that all at once, if you're doing it yourself.
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