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Old 03-18-2021, 08:08 AM   #21
mikel16
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I prefer the hardwired version. More protection against power outages/surges, it's always connected and I can monitor the amps used whit multiple appliances in use.
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:09 AM   #22
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PM me if you decide to sell it an let me know what you want for it.
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:12 AM   #23
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I have the watch dog ems in 50 amp. My trailer is 50 amp, but my pedestal at home is 30 amp. Can I still use the watchdog with a 50A/30A adapter? Will it work?
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Old 03-18-2021, 09:27 AM   #24
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I have the watch dog ems in 50 amp. My trailer is 50 amp, but my pedestal at home is 30 amp. Can I still use the watchdog with a 50A/30A adapter? Will it work?
yes it will.
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Old 03-18-2021, 09:30 AM   #25
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I prefer the hardwired version. More protection against power outages/surges, it's always connected and I can monitor the amps used whit multiple appliances in use.
Hard wired and portable work exactly the same and long as you plug in the portable.
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Old 03-18-2021, 10:45 AM   #26
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Sourdough, you have posted a lot of good stuff on this forum but your explanation on the difference between an EMS and a Surge Protector is spot on, every Newbie should read.
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Old 03-18-2021, 11:15 AM   #27
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sale at camping world

We have a new ems 50 amp from camping world. They have the best prices of anywhere.. even including buying the 30 dollar membership..

We have a Southwire brand, up right next up there with Progessive..
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Old 03-18-2021, 11:18 AM   #28
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Camping World best prices in EMS!
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Old 03-22-2021, 02:06 PM   #29
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I have the watch dog ems in 50 amp. My trailer is 50 amp, but my pedestal at home is 30 amp. Can I still use the watchdog with a 50A/30A adapter? Will it work?
Yes it will, I actually tested mine on a buddies trailer that exact way.
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:20 PM   #30
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My Thanks to Bill - 2020. Today I received his gently used 30-AMP Progressive (PT30-X) EMS surge protector.

From the manual it looks like you plug it into the box and then wait for the protector to validate that there are no errors before plugging in my 30 amp TT cord. Then the EMS has a timer to validate again that there are no errors before allowing power to flow to the TT?
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by mikel16 View Post
I prefer the hardwired version. More protection against power outages/surges, it's always connected and I can monitor the amps used whit multiple appliances in use.
I agree, power outage at park today, when power came back EMS cam up, then power went off again, a look at EMS was PE4 (leg1 voltage low). Looked as display came around to leg 1 again 101 volts, EMS doing its job!
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Old 03-29-2021, 01:02 PM   #32
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PM me if you decide to sell it an let me know what you want for it.
Just wondering who you're talking to on this one??
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Old 03-29-2021, 04:26 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Weldon View Post
My Thanks to Bill - 2020. Today I received his gently used 30-AMP Progressive (PT30-X) EMS surge protector.

From the manual it looks like you plug it into the box and then wait for the protector to validate that there are no errors before plugging in my 30 amp TT cord. Then the EMS has a timer to validate again that there are no errors before allowing power to flow to the TT?
Everyone has their own way of doing things, some have a reason, some "just do it because they just do"...

I have a specific procedure for connecting my RV to any power source and I have a specific reason for doing it this way: First, I ALWAYS turn off the pedestal circuit breakers (all of them) before plugging any of my equipment into the plugs. Then, after connecting the trailer, I turn on the circuit breaker for that outlet. I have a hardwired EMS, so I then go inside to verify that power is working and is appropriate with no issues. The reason is to prevent arcing of my shore power connector pins.

In your case, I'd turn off the circuit breakers, plug in the EMS to the pedestal and plug the trailer into the EMS. Turn on the circuit breaker and verify that the EMS is working and that there are no faults...

I wouldn't do a "2 step" process by verifying the EMS before plugging the RV into it. That's going to "power up your EMS" twice as many times as just doing it once and regardless of any problem identified by the EMS, if there is a problem, it won't allow power to the trailer, so the "two step procedure is not needed to protect anything"....

Now, why the heck do I turn everything off, then plug it all in, then turn the circuit breaker on???

If you look very carefully at a 1 or 2 year old male plug on any RV, you'll see that the three contacts are "pitted and discolored". The reason for that is the "arcing and sparking" that occurs when you plug in with a "high demand on the plug by the end appliance/trailer. Turning off the circuit breaker protects YOUR plug from that arcing and will preserve the pins longer, keeping YOUR equipment serviceable and undamaged longer....

So, when you arrive at a campground, turn off all the pedestal breakers, plug in your EMS, plug the trailer into the EMS and turn on the breaker for that plug. You'll see the EMS do its "startup routine" and then apply power to the trailer. No need to "two step the procedure".
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Old 03-29-2021, 04:47 PM   #34
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So, when you arrive at a campground, turn off all the pedestal breakers, plug in your EMS, plug the trailer into the EMS and turn on the breaker for that plug. You'll see the EMS do its "startup routine" and then apply power to the trailer. No need to "two step the procedure".



The above is what we do. The RV has residual power draws that can arc if everything is powered up drawing current when plugged in. The EMS keeps that at bay until it kicks on if you just plug everything in, let the EMS analyze then turn it all on. As you travel around you will find outlets "burned" from the arcing and those folks' plugs are going to be compromised to some degree. Letting the EMS do that saves all that wear.
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Old 03-29-2021, 04:48 PM   #35
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What John said but also turn the breakers off BEFORE disconnecting as well. If you need a visual at home turn your vacum cleaner on. Then turn out the lights. With tha vac running pull the plug. You'll see the arching between the outlet and plug.
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:46 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Everyone has their own way of doing things, some have a reason, some "just do it because they just do"...

I have a specific procedure for connecting my RV to any power source and I have a specific reason for doing it this way: First, I ALWAYS turn off the pedestal circuit breakers (all of them) before plugging any of my equipment into the plugs. Then, after connecting the trailer, I turn on the circuit breaker for that outlet. I have a hardwired EMS, so I then go inside to verify that power is working and is appropriate with no issues. The reason is to prevent arcing of my shore power connector pins.

In your case, I'd turn off the circuit breakers, plug in the EMS to the pedestal and plug the trailer into the EMS. Turn on the circuit breaker and verify that the EMS is working and that there are no faults...

I wouldn't do a "2 step" process by verifying the EMS before plugging the RV into it. That's going to "power up your EMS" twice as many times as just doing it once and regardless of any problem identified by the EMS, if there is a problem, it won't allow power to the trailer, so the "two step procedure is not needed to protect anything"....

Now, why the heck do I turn everything off, then plug it all in, then turn the circuit breaker on???

If you look very carefully at a 1 or 2 year old male plug on any RV, you'll see that the three contacts are "pitted and discolored". The reason for that is the "arcing and sparking" that occurs when you plug in with a "high demand on the plug by the end appliance/trailer. Turning off the circuit breaker protects YOUR plug from that arcing and will preserve the pins longer, keeping YOUR equipment serviceable and undamaged longer....

So, when you arrive at a campground, turn off all the pedestal breakers, plug in your EMS, plug the trailer into the EMS and turn on the breaker for that plug. You'll see the EMS do its "startup routine" and then apply power to the trailer. No need to "two step the procedure".
Thanks guys. I confess that I didn't give much thought (zero) about shutting the breaker off before connecting or disconnecting. Apparently a lot of people don't because the post is almost always turned on when we arrive at a spot, no matter what state or park we are in. However, I should have and will definitely take johns advice going forward. Much appreciated to all 3 of you.
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:20 AM   #37
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What EMS are you using?

Last night our Progressive Industries 30 surge protector melted down. It had been in constant use for nearly 2 years. We live in our Keystone Outback 328rl and are plugged in via heavy duty 15 amp extension cords...100 ft plus 50 foot. We are plugged in to the main cabin and have been for years. We had big winds last night but no breakers went off at the cabin. The surge protector melted and the ends on the 50 foot cord fried. RV is ok.
So...what EMS are you recommending? We need to figure this out asap..
Thanks in advance. This is THE knowledge base I look to!
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:30 AM   #38
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I'd recommend the same brand, but be sure it's the EMS not just surge protection if that's not you had already.
I'd also recommend using appropriate size wire to supply the rv, something much heavier than 150' of 15 amp extension cord. It's surprising that, depending on what you run in the rv, you haven't melted that extension cord before now, storm or not!
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:30 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cascadia View Post
Last night our Progressive Industries 30 surge protector melted down. It had been in constant use for nearly 2 years. We live in our Keystone Outback 328rl and are plugged in via heavy duty 15 amp extension cords...100 ft plus 50 foot. We are plugged in to the main cabin and have been for years. We had big winds last night but no breakers went off at the cabin. The surge protector melted and the ends on the 50 foot cord fried. RV is ok.
So...what EMS are you recommending? We need to figure this out asap..
Thanks in advance. This is THE knowledge base I look to!
Please tell me that the 15 amp is a misprint! there is so such thing as a Heavy duty 15 amp cord. You must have a min of # 10 for that distance and 8 would be better.
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:45 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cascadia View Post
Last night our Progressive Industries 30 surge protector melted down. It had been in constant use for nearly 2 years. We live in our Keystone Outback 328rl and are plugged in via heavy duty 15 amp extension cords...100 ft plus 50 foot. We are plugged in to the main cabin and have been for years. We had big winds last night but no breakers went off at the cabin. The surge protector melted and the ends on the 50 foot cord fried. RV is ok.
So...what EMS are you recommending? We need to figure this out asap..
Thanks in advance. This is THE knowledge base I look to!
First, a 30 amp PI EMS won't do much to protect against the inevitable voltage drop from 150 feet of 15 amp (16 ga) extension cord during "big winds and brownouts". That's an "open invitation" to start a fire (hopefully outside the RV) that may or may not engulf the RV once the grass and brush gets a good burn going......

I'd urge you to replace the PI EMS with a similar one. Obviously it did "its thing" and protected the trailer.... However, I'd look very seriously at what you're using to provide power to the trailer. With a 100' run, at 30 amps, the recommended ROMEX is at least 8 ga, but some recommend 6 ga for outdoor runs that distant from the source breaker.

If you're "only connected to 15 amps" then I'd use at least 10 ga ROMEX or "RV shore power extension cables" with the plugs protected from the elements (I use a 4x4 wood block to lift the plugs and cover with a 5 gallon plastic pail). A "heavy duty extension cord" is typically not heavier than 14 ga wiring or 12 ga at best. That's not sufficient for a 150' run, even at 15 amps.

Now, just to be clear, a 12 ga extension cord can be used to run 15 amps for "about 100 feet"... That doesn't mean you can run a 12 ga cord for 100' and then plug it into a 10 ga trailer power cord to run the other 50'.... The "gauge limitation" applies to the entire cord run. So, if the run is 150', the entire cord must be heavy enough to run the distance, not "pieced together" at the "limit of the lightest cord"....
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