Roof patch?

[LHaven]

DW recently had an encounter with an untrimmed tree that extended way too far into a roadway in town, and knocked off the plastic pod at the top of the awning arm. While up on the ladder replacing it, I noticed that the tree limb also did about 2-3" of damage to the very corner of the rubber roof (image).

Would I be making a mistake trying to address this with a line of caulk? I know about Eternabond tape, but I'm not enthusiastic over the choice of white or black on a tan roof, especially when it's going to show on the sidewall. Or is there another product I could use?

[chuckster57]

Clean it real good and use Dicor self leveling. Eternabond does come in a variety of colors.

[flybouy]

Eternabond does have the tape in tan.

[wiredgeorge]

LHaven, If you clean your roof you might find it is is actually white ;-) Tape it.. I disagree with Chuck a bit on this as I would use non self leveling Dicor on the edges since your rip wraps around the side edge some. If it runs, as the self leveling may, it will get goo all over the side of the camper. This can be removed with Naptha (don't ask how I know).

[cavie]

eterabond tape. Not dacore for this.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

LHaven, If you clean your roof you might find it is is actually white ;-) Tape it.. I disagree with Chuck a bit on this as I would use non self leveling Dicor on the edges since your rip wraps around the side edge some. If it runs, as the self leveling may, it will get goo all over the side of the camper. This can be removed with Naptha (don't ask how I know).

Ok. I’ll agree, non self leveling, but I don’t think it calls for eternabond tape.

[LHaven]

I had the same misgivings about the self-leveling on a vertical corner. The mini-rolls don't come in tan, so I guess I'm looking at a $50 roll of tape. (Yes, the roof is really tan, it's only two years old, and I've cleaned it twice to recaulk.)

I see Eternabond also makes a clear "Eternacaulk," but I don't know anything about it, other than they say "excellent adhesion" on EPDM and TPO.

[flybouy]

If you plan on keeping the trailer and letting the little lady tow it then the $50 roll may be a good investment.

[JRTJH]

I would clean it well with alcohol, let it dry thoroughly, then use DICOR non-leveling sealant, run a LIBERAL bead on the top surface of the TPO roofing, then a smaller bead on the vertical surface. Use a popcicle stick to "join the two beads" and make sure it's at least 1/8" thick at the bend.

I'd be reluctant to use Eternabond on a 90 degree bend like that. It "might adhere well, but it might not... If it does, you're golden.. If it doesn't, you probably won't be able to see the damage under the tape as the water "seeps in to do its damage"...

I'd stick to DICOR and make sure you keep it out of the aluminum edge molding/drip rail.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by flybouy

If you plan on keeping the trailer and letting the little lady tow it then the $50 roll may be a good investment.

Its good to have our stand up back on the stage!

[wiredgeorge]

I have had such damage and took a bit of Eternabond tape and covered the spot and THEN use some Dicor (which depends on location) over the edges of the tape to ensure seal of the tape edges; lots of ways to skin a cat but I have never found the stinking tape wanting to come off easily. If all fails, buy some Flex Seal! Goooooood stuff!

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by flybouy

If you plan on keeping the trailer and letting the little lady tow it then the $50 roll may be a good investment.

Actually, due to DW's complete lack of timely navigational skills and my own foot neuropathy, for 22 years driving the trailer forward has (for the most part) been her job, and backing it has been mine. Maintenance is all mine, though.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I would clean it well with alcohol, let it dry thoroughly, then use DICOR non-leveling sealant
I'd stick to DICOR and make sure you keep it out of the aluminum edge molding/drip rail.

I think this is the way I will go. I'm befuddled by the final advice, though, as that bead above the aluminum rail is already exactly the same caulk, which I put on pursuant to your own advice earlier.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by LHaven

I think this is the way I will go. I'm befuddled by the final advice, though, as that bead above the aluminum rail is already exactly the same caulk, which I put on pursuant to your own advice earlier.

There are two kinds of "roof rail". I thought you had the same type as me, it has the "vinyl screw cover" with a "rain gutter/drip rail" molded into the aluminum extrusion. What you have, thinking back at those previous posts, is the extrusion without the rain gutter/drip rail...

Here are pictures of both types of roof end cap/side cap. Yours doesn't have the rain gutter, so no need to worry about the sealant blocking rain drainage. That was the reason for the comment about "not blocking the gutter with excess sealant"...

[LHaven]

Yup I have a separate gutter below that. Thanks.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Yup I have a separate gutter below that. Thanks.

Sounds good. PM me if you have problems, I'll try to talk you through any issues, but it's a fairly straight forward application. Just keep the sealant off the vinyl screw cover strip and out of the rain gutter/drip rail and you'll be OK. No problem if you "smear a little excess on the aluminum, if you ever have to remove it, it'll separate from the TPO/aluminum space pretty easily....

[chuckster57]

I have found that if you spray the Dicor with Fantastik you can smooth it with your finger, without it sticking.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I have found that if you spray the Dicor with Fantastik you can smooth it with your finger, without it sticking.

Yep... I just use "lots of spit" on my finger to do the same thing... DICOR is bitter, BTW... LOL

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Yep... I just use "lots of spit" on my finger to do the same thing... DICOR is bitter, BTW... LOL

That’s why I don’t. I do use a “wet” finger on silicone.