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Old 12-12-2020, 09:53 AM   #1
twvette
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Diamond plate on garage walls coming off ...

The diamond kick plates around my Fuzion 420 garage are getting really loose and seem close to falling off now. I have watched the screws slowly come out as they have just stripped out of the the thin wall material they were screwed into. Have not looked at it much so don't know if any were into studs or if there was silicone or similar also used. Anyone gone through theirs and had luck with just bigger screws (seems temporary fix), adding wall anchors, and/or just using a bunch of silicone or similar (hmmm, not sure if really a good idea if might damage wall panels long term). Just looking for any experiences before I attempt something ...
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Old 12-12-2020, 04:31 PM   #2
Camping family
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The diamond kick plates around my Fuzion 420 garage are getting really loose and seem close to falling off now. I have watched the screws slowly come out as they have just stripped out of the the thin wall material they were screwed into. Have not looked at it much so don't know if any were into studs or if there was silicone or similar also used. Anyone gone through theirs and had luck with just bigger screws (seems temporary fix), adding wall anchors, and/or just using a bunch of silicone or similar (hmmm, not sure if really a good idea if might damage wall panels long term). Just looking for any experiences before I attempt something ...
I’m thinking use a rivet
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Old 12-12-2020, 05:28 PM   #3
infantryofficer81
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Originally Posted by twvette View Post
The diamond kick plates around my Fuzion 420 garage are getting really loose and seem close to falling off now. I have watched the screws slowly come out as they have just stripped out of the the thin wall material they were screwed into. Have not looked at it much so don't know if any were into studs or if there was silicone or similar also used. Anyone gone through theirs and had luck with just bigger screws (seems temporary fix), adding wall anchors, and/or just using a bunch of silicone or similar (hmmm, not sure if really a good idea if might damage wall panels long term). Just looking for any experiences before I attempt something ...
I've got the same unit, and the same problem. I've used wall anchors and they seem to hold more securely. I do use slightly larger wall anchors whenever I replace the original screws. Like you, I need to examine things a little closer to see if any of them actually hit the wall studs.
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Old 12-13-2020, 08:32 AM   #4
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Same problem, went around with a stud finder and tried to hit all of them. I think wall anchor is probably the better solution. Not a lot of studs in there. Once better secured, I've been contemplating a bead of clear silicone on the top to keep dust and dirt from packing behind the plate.
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Old 12-13-2020, 12:51 PM   #5
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Know that you're not alone. Our 2017 Impact 312 is doing the same thing.
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Old 12-13-2020, 01:22 PM   #6
jr2194
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Same here!

My 2017 371 Fuzion also had this issue... I went with the anchor method... so far so good.
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Old 12-14-2020, 12:28 AM   #7
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WE have a 2010 Raptor and same problem with the trim plates in the garage and the shower liner. Used push pins of a size to fit the wallowed out holes and they have held well after many years and miles. Wing type fasteners would also work if short enough. This is caused by flexing while traveling on our insane roads.
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:38 AM   #8
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Is there any reason you would ever need to remove it?

I would probably pull it off and smear the snot out of it with liquid nails, permanently gluing the diamondplate to the wall.
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:57 AM   #9
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Is there any reason you would ever need to remove it?

I would probably pull it off and smear the snot out of it with liquid nails, permanently gluing the diamondplate to the wall.
My only concern with a "permanent installation" is the potential need to get behind it to repair moisture/water damage. The exterior walls are a "one piece laminated construction". On the exterior is FILON, glued to 1/8" luan (or in some upgraded trailers, two layers of 1/8" luan) glued to 1.5" styrofoam, glued to 1/8" luan interior wall.

If there's any reason to need access to the lower part of the wall, having "permanently installed plastic diamond plate" to chisel off the wall to get behind it would be more "damaging than helpful"...

On the other hand, if you never have a need to get behind it, it's a great alternative to screws, rivets, anchors or expanding blots. To me, it all boils down to "what if"......
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Old 12-14-2020, 10:56 AM   #10
Fuzion342
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2014 Fuzion 342, I have had the same problem in the garage. I went around and up sized all the screws to a #10 from a #8. I also put a generous amount of gorilla glue in each hole and ran the #10 screws back in and knock on wood it been good for the last 3 years.
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:43 AM   #11
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My only concern with a "permanent installation" is the potential need to get behind it to repair moisture/water damage. The exterior walls are a "one piece laminated construction". On the exterior is FILON, glued to 1/8" luan (or in some upgraded trailers, two layers of 1/8" luan) glued to 1.5" styrofoam, glued to 1/8" luan interior wall.

If there's any reason to need access to the lower part of the wall, having "permanently installed plastic diamond plate" to chisel off the wall to get behind it would be more "damaging than helpful"...

On the other hand, if you never have a need to get behind it, it's a great alternative to screws, rivets, anchors or expanding blots. To me, it all boils down to "what if"......
Valid point - though I think if you need to get into one of these laminated walls for any reason, the diamondplate issue is likely least of your problems. Shame they can't just anchor it properly.
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:03 AM   #12
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2014 Fuzion 342, I have had the same problem in the garage. I went around and up sized all the screws to a #10 from a #8. I also put a generous amount of gorilla glue in each hole and ran the #10 screws back in and knock on wood it been good for the last 3 years.
You beat me to it but I also put glue (good old Elmers wood glue) on my screws and nails that seem to pop from panels in garage and that seems to do the trick.
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:04 AM   #13
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Valid point - though I think if you need to get into one of these laminated walls for any reason, the diamondplate issue is likely least of your problems. Shame they can't just anchor it properly.
Yup, I completely agree with you... But, to have to cut and pull a 6'x72" piece of diamond plate away from the bottom of the wall does a lot more damage than removing it and "digging into a 6" square to fix a problem.....
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:10 AM   #14
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Hmm . I was just drinking my coffee and sitting here thinking (always a dangerous thing as my wife says), and what about Rivet nuts?? You install in the hole by riveting in place when you are done you have a threaded insert that you can put a machine screw into and pull tight. Perhaps a drop of blue locktite and you should be good to go. I am going to try this if anymore pop on my.
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:24 AM   #15
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Hmm . I was just drinking my coffee and sitting here thinking (always a dangerous thing as my wife says), and what about Rivet nuts?? You install in the hole by riveting in place when you are done you have a threaded insert that you can put a machine screw into and pull tight. Perhaps a drop of blue locktite and you should be good to go. I am going to try this if anymore pop on my.
I'd be inclined to use jack nuts rather than riv-nuts. They offer a larger area of support and don't pull out of "hollow spaces" as easily as riv-nuts. While they can be installed without a "special tool" using the correct "jack-nut insertion tool" makes it quicker and much more "frustration free".....

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivet-n...ts/jack-nuts#1
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Old 12-17-2020, 05:39 AM   #16
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The jack nuts look like the right fastener, never knew there was an install tool- looks like a pop rivet gun.
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Old 12-17-2020, 07:52 AM   #17
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Just remember you're working with a 2" thick wall otherwise you may be able to put nuts on those bolts from outside.
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Old 12-17-2020, 10:23 AM   #18
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Just remember you're working with a 2" thick wall otherwise you may be able to put nuts on those bolts from outside.
Hahah, then be sure to use stainless acorn nuts.
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Old 12-18-2020, 04:58 AM   #19
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Looks like a pretty cheap solution, too...

McMaster-Carr link
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Old 12-20-2020, 09:23 AM   #20
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I'd be inclined to use jack nuts rather than riv-nuts. They offer a larger area of support and don't pull out of "hollow spaces" as easily as riv-nuts. While they can be installed without a "special tool" using the correct "jack-nut insertion tool" makes it quicker and much more "frustration free".....

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivet-n...ts/jack-nuts#1
I've used a LOT of these throughout my Raptor. For small shelves to adding my stairway hand railing. Just keep in mind that they do NOT fit flush on the outside and you do need to countersink the underside hole to allow for the head of the Jack Nut so your material you're putting up will lay flush with the wall. With the boilerplate in the garage, I believe that's thick enough to allow for a counterbore on the back side for the Jack Nut outside head. They HOLD REALLY WELL!

Good luck. So far my '12 Raptor has not had any issues with the boilerplate on the garage walls, keeping my fingers crossed...

Dan
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