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Old 03-28-2020, 04:48 AM   #41
rabbit59
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JRTJH....understand what your saying. The frame is probably 3/16 " thick. A little more than 1/8 I'm guessing. The reason I went with grade is the bolt remaining above frame. I believe the tray allowed them to flex front and back, thus cracking ultimately. When you start and stop with minimum 60 lbs flexing above, I think that's the issue. Yes, the best fix is tacking tray front and rear to frame. They welded battery shelf. Why they didnt at least tack this tray is beyond me???
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Old 03-28-2020, 07:46 AM   #42
JRTJH
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JRTJH....understand what your saying. The frame is probably 3/16 " thick. A little more than 1/8 I'm guessing. The reason I went with grade is the bolt remaining above frame. I believe the tray allowed them to flex front and back, thus cracking ultimately. When you start and stop with minimum 60 lbs flexing above, I think that's the issue. Yes, the best fix is tacking tray front and rear to frame. They welded battery shelf. Why they didnt at least tack this tray is beyond me???
The reason they didn't "tack weld" the tray in one position is because the "engineers at Keystone" KNOW that in more than 80% of the hitch installations, the propane tray will need to be moved to allow clearance for the hitch attachments. If "they" tack welded the tray in place, everyone would be raising hell because "my dealer had to cut the tray off the damn tongue to install the hitch, What were those idiots at Keystone thinking when they welded the tray in place?"...…. On the other hand, if they installed them "permanently" with 5/16" bolts, think of all the "extra holes that weaken the tongue assembly" that would be "drilled by Keystone, knowing they were in the wrong place"... What were those "engineers at Keystone" thinking ??? Certainly, not that dealerships would "take shortcuts" and leave temporary hardware in place …..

Maybe, if Keystone "just threw the propane assembly in the front passthrough" and made it clear to the dealerships that THEY were responsible to do the job right when they remove the assembly from the passthrough ????

DEALERSHIPS (not Keystone) are to blame for trailers leaving their lot with "temporary hardware in permanent applications".... DEALERSHIPS (not Keystone) are responsible to install the hitch AND the moved propane assembly properly. It ain't happening and it ain't the "engineers at Keystone" that are to blame.

PS: They (Keystone) also doesn't install the towel bars and TP rack "where they think you want it".. Lazy workers on the line, "Just throw them in a sack under the bathroom sink"....

PSS: If you tack weld the tray in place, consider that you can't easily change to an "improved hitch" if the hitch doesn't "fit in the space you left for the hitch"... So, if you weld it in place, drill "extra large holes in the frame (weakening the A-frame) you may be making for a "bad situation" down the line when you "mod your trailer with an improved hitch"....
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Old 03-28-2020, 04:52 PM   #43
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Now that you mention it, I don't like additional holes in the frame. I would prefer a couple of squareish u-bolts around the frame. I wonder how my propane assembly is mounted...
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Old 03-28-2020, 05:19 PM   #44
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Now that you mention it, I don't like additional holes in the frame. I would prefer a couple of squareish u-bolts around the frame. I wonder how my propane assembly is mounted...
I have two utility trailers, both with storage boxes mounted on the tongue. One, the dual axle trailer I use to transport heavy items like my diesel tractor, is attached with 4 U bolts around the tongue. THERE ARE NO holes drilled in the tongue anywhere.

The other, a "light duty aluminum single axle trailer" I use to transport the slingshot behind the fifth wheel. GVW is 3000 pounds, dry weight is 760 pounds. The tongue is all aluminum rectangle tubing. I'd be extremely reluctant to drill any holes in the tongue AT ALL !!!! The box mounted on that tongue is also held in place with U bolts, inserted with the "U" under the tongue, through two holes in the floor of the box with a strap over the U bolt, then lock washers and nuts, followed with a liberal covering of the entire attachment point with silicone to seal the entire U bolt area (inside the box)…

None of my trailers have any "extra holes" drilled in the tongue. Admittedly, there are some on the steel trailer, placed there to attach the tongue jack, the breakaway switch, the wiring guides, etc. There are NO voluntary holes drilled by me, anywhere on the "weight carrying part of any trailer I own.

That includes the fifth wheel. My "vinyl post cover sewer hose box" is mounted with "HD clamps on the I beam, not holes drilled in the I beam.
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Old 07-19-2020, 09:12 AM   #45
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Very curious

I might be a little late on this one but mine had the same issue. I don't know your build date but mine was built 10/30/19 and had three snapped bolts holding the tank tray in place. I do not trust others to set up my wdh/sway control as the last time I allowed that to happen the tongue had eight extra holes where they kept "adjusting" the brackets. Did not discover this until I sold it and removed the brackets to install on the new unit.
Managed to get the stumps of the snapped screws out with little effort as they had not rusted yet. Needed them out to get them out of the area that the tray needed to be for my hitch setup. Drilled the holes from the screws just one drill size bigger to get clean material and filled them with jb weld and relocated the tray using the 1/4" self drilling and tapping screws (three per side) used to assemble carport structures with the rubber washer under them. OP's issue was extreme with the whole assembly falling off. I knew at delivery the tray was loose but still marginally held in place. 20 miles or so to home on 30 mph roads caused no such issue. Holes in the tongue do not scare me unless they are at or very close to a corner as I don't think anything I can do will bend a 6" box channel and the last tt was only 500 pounds lighter and had a 4" tongue with swiss cheese holes where they messed up installing the hitch and that never bent.
The factory might be better off using bug zip ties to hold it on until the hitch hardware is installed.
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