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Old 09-06-2019, 09:16 AM   #21
GeekSquadOfUn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Easy fix: remove the freezer door to access the fridge door upper hinge. Lift off the door and put a washer on the hinge pin, Re assemble. I do it a lot to brand new fridges.
Thanks for that tip. Will do.

Much appreciated.
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:32 PM   #22
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Yes. Thanks chuckster.
I have the same problem and have been looking for a solution.
RMc
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Old 09-07-2019, 11:48 AM   #23
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You guys have convinced me

Could you provide parts lists (fans and thermistor) where and how much?

are they 140mm or smaller

thanks


I am adding fans next week, just don't know where I will get them or what size, or how many. And I am having a heck of a time finding a thermistor normally open to close somewhere between 85-120, preferably closer to 85
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Old 09-07-2019, 11:58 AM   #24
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This kit is similar to the one I used. Mine came with a programmable thermostat but I don't see that kit right now

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DOMETIC-NOR...kAAOSwi7BdI17s
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
This kit is similar to the one I used. Mine came with a programmable thermostat but I don't see that kit right now

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DOMETIC-NOR...kAAOSwi7BdI17s
Thanks

I opted for building my own kit...
a. Inside circulation
https://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-RV-Ref.../dp/B0725HQ9BN $32

b. thermistor/thermocoupler $8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Fan...item2a3efa157c

c. 140mm 155cfm IP67 waterproof fans 4ea $18
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NYQ357N...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

d. Aluminium tape and foil wrapped insulation board.

Glad you all cleared the path....I am now all in!!

I may leave the doors open and use my upgraded refrig as 3rd AC....
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Old 09-07-2019, 02:12 PM   #26
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You can also use "external" snap rings on that door pin. I don't recall removing my door to install them. Probably just needle nose pliers. The door has to be lifted enough that it easily follows the bottom track for the center flap.
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:32 PM   #27
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Not exactly sure what you mean... Snap rings slid on the bottom hinge of the left bottom fridge door to lift the door just enough?

I also thought of removing the plastic channel at the top in the middle to maybe lower it instead...
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:22 PM   #28
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Snap rings or E clips? I use a washer because it can’t fall out.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:46 AM   #29
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The 5 problems with the 315RLS Refrigerator

Symptom(s) reported: Freezer works but refrig climbs from 38ish to 50+ish

5 Issues Reported and the fixes implemented:

1. Center seal on the left hand door does not work, does not follow track. Raise the door by adding washers.

2. Lack of internal air flow/circulation: add internal fan added and wire to the light.

3. Improper external airflow over condenser: add additional fans above the condenser pulling the air to augment the 4 existing vent fans at are below the condenser pushing the air.

4a. Heat build up in the top of the fridge compartment: add insulation/insulation board and smooth seams using aluminium tape.

4b. Turbulent air flow and heat build up in top because of missing turning vane baffle. add curved turning vane baffle when performing 4a.

5. Door latch improperly adjusted (see video) : adjust latch. https://youtu.be/PWiaRU311L4
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:33 PM   #30
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Thanks for this recap, that should do it.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:01 AM   #31
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check on line look for The Cooling Wearhouse rvcoolingunit.com I used their products to vastly improve the performance of our Dometic fridge.
when you find their site kook under performance parts, we installed extra evaporator fans, a condenser fan, a fan to push hot air out of the upper vent and a lower set point thermistor to turn the fans on sooner
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:12 PM   #32
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ok i'm weighing in here because i have a Cougar 368MBI with the Dometic RM1350 and i'm having the EXACT same problem. it's been very hot here in TX and my fridge is basically exposed to the southern sun all day. i bought 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/AeroCool-Sile.../dp/B009XERK6G and i found a couple good videos on youtube about how to install them on the top vent. the only thing i'm unsure of is how exactly do i wire them into the 12v power?

should i tap them into the power wires for the existing fans so they all turn on at the same time? and how exactly do i do this?
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:05 AM   #33
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Look at the bottom rear of the fridge, you'll see a white plastic block connector. Just connect there and Bob's your uncle.

Easy peasy.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:07 AM   #34
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In mine, inside the bottom vent, there is a wire block with available 12v. I just fished the wires down the side of the box, being careful to keep them away from the hot parts of the fridge. Use a multi-meter to find your positive and negative poles and attach there.

Also, unless you really know what your doing for using the components you need to make this work I would search for a kit that includes the fan(s), mounting hardware, thermostat(s), and possibly a fuse with an on/off switch (mine came with that). Kits are available on ebay.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:15 AM   #35
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should i tap them into the power wires for the existing fans so they all turn on at the same time? and how exactly do i do this?[/QUOTE]

sully585,

It depends:
1. do you want them to run all the time or only after a certain temp is reached where the fans are located.
2. do you only want them to operate when the refrig is turned on.

1. I installed 4 additional fans, 2 will come on at 30c (86ishF), and the next 2 will turn on at 50c (122F)

2. mine will operate even if the refrig is not turned on.....We always have the refriq on (essentially all the time--) when the battery is on....with very short minor exceptions....and this wiring is much easier


here is the 30c https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Fan...72.m2749.l2649

but now have found on amazon (45c to 90c --113-194F)
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Normal...CB21Z1NQT04F3Z

These are normally open bimetal disc thermostats that when they reach the rated temp they close and complete the circuit. They are rated at 2amp, and my fans (140mm super high CFM) draw .7 so 3 wired in parallel would be pushing the rating..

I wired the themostats in the grd leg of my fans so when temp is hit they turn on.

at the bottom of the refrig (lower vent cover removed) there is a wiring block with 12v , always on when battery switch is on. I used it.

If you need pics and or wiring diagram , send me a msg.

dg

PS : there are 4 other issues that others have fixed with this refrig, see the link above in my post...
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:30 AM   #36
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I will probably add a switch so that just incase there is a time when we would have the battery on for an extended time without having the refrig on, I can kill the power to the fans...Thanks jsb5717
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:42 AM   #37
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Also, unless you really know what your doing for using the components you need to make this work I would search for a kit that includes the fan(s), mounting hardware, thermostat(s), and possibly a fuse with an on/off switch (mine came with that). Kits are available on ebay.[/QUOTE]

coolerguys in seattle may be a very useful source , they spent a half an hour critiquing my design. (although GeekSquadOfUn is correct : easy peesy) I am just anal ...

but they have a really cool thermostat (programmable temps) with display that installs inside the 5er so that you know what the status of the fans ...I think it was around $15....unfortunately it would not handle my 2.8 combined amps.

https://www.coolerguys.com/collections/thermal-monitors


notice your fan has a 3 pin to 4 pin adapter, they also have connectors (less than $2) that makes for a professional looking installation that is easier than soldering, crimping, or using wire nuts.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:56 AM   #38
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My kit came with this programable thermostat. I can set the min/max for fan operation and also see the current temp. It's in Celsius only but once you do the conversion to F it's easy to set up.

I've set mine to turn on at 46C (~114F) which is about when the OEM fans kick on. It's set to turn off at 41C. I've got the Thermostat probe tucked into the top of the box where it's the hottest. I'm still fine-tuning but this set up seems the best so far in kicking on just before the fridge starts to struggle. So far it's keeping the fridge temp down to under 40...usually more like 34-35F.
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Old 09-15-2019, 01:10 PM   #39
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For peace of mind I installed on the outside, to the right of the fridge, this thermometer from Acurite.

There are 2 sensors: 1 in the fridge, 1 in the freezer section.

My fans do the job well.
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:54 PM   #40
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Ok my fans are installed. I wired them to a hot 12v and put an inline switch on the positive side so I can turn them on and off when I want. Keeping fingers crossed. Only issue I had was the baffle is really high and really close to my vent so I couldn’t get the tilt I wanted on the fans. I thought about cutting the baffle out but others on here have recommended against that.
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