Stabilizers

jsmith948 · 05-17-2017, 04:40 AM

Our 5er is a Cougar 282 RESWE. We have read on here many threads/posts regarding after market stabilizers such as J.T. Strongarm - Steatdyfast - and BAL. These all seem to work by employing diagonal bracing. My DS fabricated a telescoping brace for our trailer that is attached to the top pivot point of the right rear stabilizer jack and the bottom pivot point of the left stabilizer jack. The telescoping tubes are locked in position by two allen head set screws through a collar on the fixed tube. This home made device works well, but is a little inconvenient in that I have to crawl under the rear of the trailer to lock/unlock the set screws.
In the case of the commercially available stabilizers, is it necessary/recommended that they be added to both sides of the trailer? Or, is bracing one corner adequate? Looking at the various ads, it is hard to determine whether the pricing is for 2 bars for just one corner or is it for a "set" of bars for both sides of the front of the trailer?
Probably a dumb question, but, you don't know what you don't know.
Curious what others on here have done -thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

**JRTJH** · 05-17-2017, 05:51 AM

There are many different "theories" employed by owners of RV's when it comes to how to stabilize a trailer. Some have created very impressive "Rube Goldberg" devices, some have used part of a BAL system, some modify a Steadyfast system and other's rely on tripod jacks or many other types of devices.

As for the BAL system, which is what I have on my trailer, and I'm very well satisfied with it, BAL ships each "box" as a pair of stabilizer bars. I bought three pairs, one set for the right landing gear, one set for the left landing gear and one set to diagonally mount in the rear. In the back, I have one bar that attaches to the lower end of each stabilizer jack. Each bar extends to the top center of the rear of the coach. This diagonal approach stops motion in both fore/aft and lateral directions.

So, to answer your question, if you order the BAL system, each box comes with two bars and attachment fittings for each end of both bars (4 attachment fittings). Self tapping screws are also included

ADDED: If you read the questions/answers on Amazon's site, you'll get more information than I've found in any store listing, including the BAL site. At one time, BAL's site had a link to download the installation instructions, you might also check there.

Here's Amazon's link: https://www.amazon.com/BAL-23216-Loc...stabilizer+bar

and the BAL site: http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con.../lockarm.shtml

The install link is about halfway down the page.

Desert185 · 05-17-2017, 10:03 AM

I used this one. We like the results.

http://www.steadyfast.com/

collins590 · 05-17-2017, 04:49 PM

Are your trailer stabilizers the scissor type jacks or the electric stabilizers? Id like to see how you mounted the two on the front if you have a picture.

**JRTJH** · 05-17-2017, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by collins590

Are your trailer stabilizers the scissor type jacks or the electric stabilizers? Id like to see how you mounted the two on the front if you have a picture.

All three of the posters in this thread have fifth wheels. They are "landing gear" not scissor jacks.

Double b · 05-18-2017, 03:53 AM

Only thing I can add to this thread after recently installing the "Ultra-fab eliminator stabilizer system" is take a look at the bar end fittings.

Two things to look at,
1) is what type of end is it? is it a ball joint type or fixed flat plate. fixed like the style I installed increase the efforts to retract and extend the landing gear. If you have motorized this could effect the longevity of the electric jacks.
2) the clearance in the hole in the rods ends to the bolts. Again the unit I installed has about 1/16 of clearance between the bolt and the hole. So again more movement unless you get under and tighten all the bolts regular.

Now that I have installed my system, if I ever do it again I will look at these concerns when picking what we go with.

Now as to weather this upgrade works? Like night and day. No movement or swinging when anyone rolls over at night, let alone when someone gets up to go to the washroom. I think momma will be more frisky now....

jsmith948 · 05-18-2017, 06:03 AM

Thanks for the replies. So far, I like the way that Steadyfast attaches at the base of one leg and the top of the opposing leg. Seems like the lower angle would brace better and I like the "machinist tool" looking locking T's. However, I'm not sure that bracing one corner of the 5er is enough. The JT Strongarms and the BAL seem to be close in their approach to mounting. I wonder if the welded T handles and/or the hex head bolts will rattle off during transit? I actually like the idea of using the same wrench on the stabilizer bolts as is used on the scissor Jacks and X-chocks. If the hex bolts on the Bal do go missing they would be easy (and less expensive) to replace. It will probably come down to $$ - and the BAL stabilizer bars seem to be the best bang for the buck.
I know I am over thinking this (character flaw) but we recently stayed in Ely, NV and the 35 mph winds with 45-50 mph gusts during the evening had our 5er doing the Boogie! We decided to add the stabilizers after I went outside and watched the 5er moving side to side due to the "give" between the landing gear tubes.
Thanks again for the responses.

**JRTJH** · 05-18-2017, 06:29 AM

We had the steadyfast system on our Holiday Rambler travel trailer and the BAL on our current Cougar. Honestly, I can't tell the difference when inside the trailer between either system. They do essentially the same thing, connect to the bottom of one jack and stabilize by diagonally attaching to the upper part of the trailer (opposing jack vs trailer chassis). Either attachment point offers the same damping of motion, so it's (in my opinion) six of one and a half dozen of the other.....

As for the BAL locking bolts, they are 3/4" and you can use the same "long reach" tool that you use on the rear jacks. I've never lost a bolt (the attaching nuts have a "friction thread" so they don't vibrate out during towing. I modified mine by removing the bolts, welding a 3/8" x 5" bolt on the top of each. That "approaches" the steadyfast type "hand crank" and makes it easier for me to walk around and tighten. Just my personal preference, the BAL system and a 3/4" socket worked well, I just like not needing tools if possible.

I wouldn't criticize any of the three similar systems, they all do essentially the same thing, any one of them would offer you significantly improved "inside stability". If "bang for your buck" is important, shop by pricing, if you've got your "heart set on a particular brand" then get that one. No matter which you choose, you'll be happy once it's installed and in use......

rhagfo · 05-18-2017, 06:35 AM

Well installed the JT's on our 32' 5er last year and all I can say is WOW! Rock solid, will be selling the pin tripod!

One of the things I don't like about the Steadyfast system is the new Landing Gear pad that comes with them it is smaller than the one currently on the 5er.

I got mine from CW on a great internet sale for $184!

Currently several sites have them for between $220 and $230 PPL Motor Homes, Camping World, and Tweety's all seem to have decent pricing.

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...stabilizer.htm

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ing-gear/69723

http://tweetys.com/jt-s-strong-arm-j...railers-1.aspx

Milocka · 05-18-2017, 11:11 AM

^^X2. Just installed the JT arms on mine, they are great! Between them and the BAL x-chocks, we are pretty solid

mj5150 · 05-19-2017, 11:33 AM

Our Raptor has six stabilizers on it, hydraulic.
We get lots of movement walking around inside.
Would these stabilizers help us out? I thought I saw/heard someone say hydraulic systems don't require these.
I am also thinking about the chocks for the tires.

-Mike

cynjon · 05-19-2017, 01:29 PM

I installed the BAL Lock Arms on my 27RKS last weekend. The main challenge was finding something substantial to attach the brackets to across the front crossmember. With some helpful recommendation from JRTJH, who has the same model, I added some steel reinforcement to the metal floor of the front storage area and attached the brackets to that. Installation of the side stabilizers was very easy, and the 4 stabilizers together do a great job of eliminating side-to-side and front-to-back movement of the camper when walking around in it. This is a "must do" upgrade, in my opinion, especially for the money.

Desert185 · 05-21-2017, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mj5150

Our Raptor has six stabilizers on it, hydraulic.
We get lots of movement walking around inside.
Would these stabilizers help us out? I thought I saw/heard someone say hydraulic systems don't require these.
I am also thinking about the chocks for the tires.

-Mike

Yes, stabilizers are the key to eliminating movement. Chocks prevent rolling, but the sprung weight above (the trailer chassis) still moves easily.

www.steadyfast.com work incredibly well to limit movement.

mj5150 · 05-21-2017, 06:24 PM

Should I put jacks on the axles, or set the frame on blocks, and get the wheels off the ground?
This thing isn't moving in the next 16-18 months, so I need it a stable as can be.
All the ones we looked at on the dealership lots were super stable, no wiggling like what we have now.

-Mike

**chuckster57** · 05-21-2017, 06:45 PM

Putting jacks on the axles will stress the suspension IMO. If the trailer isn't moving for the foreseeable future, solid blocking on the frame at several points on each side would be the best. I would get 2 sets (4 in a set) of aluminum screw jacks.

jsmith948 · 08-29-2017, 02:25 PM

An update on stabilizers:
Currently, CW has the BAL lock-arm stabilizer arms on sale for just under $68 a pair. Ordered 2 pair. Installation was relatively easy. As posted by another member, I also opted to re-enforce the thin metal floor of the front compartment (3/16x11/4" angle iron from frame rail to frame rail between the front edge of the landing gear and the front of the compartment). Bolted the mounting brackets through the angle and the floor pan. Added some additional bolts through the pan and the angle at each end and midway between the center and the ends. I used the alternative mounting method instead of having to drill holes in the fore and aft direction on the lower landing legs.
Before installing, if I pushed sideways on the trailer in the chin area, there was a good deal of movement side to side at the landing legs. Tightened the bolts on the stabilizers and there is NO movement. Very happy with the outcome.
Thanks again to all those who offered advice/opinions when I originally posted my questions

.

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