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Old 09-03-2020, 07:49 AM   #21
Tom N OH
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We started out with a 1985 Yellowstone travel trailer that had a gas only water heater with a standing pilot light that had to be lit manually. EVERY time we used that thing, it took me a half hour of holding the knob on the gas valve to “Pilot” to get gas flow all the way to the WH at the very back of the trailer before I could get that pilot lit. The “good” old days.....
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Old 09-03-2020, 08:15 AM   #22
wiredgeorge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom N OH View Post
We started out with a 1985 Yellowstone travel trailer that had a gas only water heater with a standing pilot light that had to be lit manually. EVERY time we used that thing, it took me a half hour of holding the knob on the gas valve to “Pilot” to get gas flow all the way to the WH at the very back of the trailer before I could get that pilot lit. The “good” old days.....

Had an older Lance truck camper that required a match to light the pilot light on the water heater (or one of those long lighters for a fireplace). No trouble with propane flow as it was on the other side of the camper about 7' away.
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Old 07-11-2022, 04:04 PM   #23
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Igniter not "clicking"

I was reading through this thread because I have a similar issue. Just getting the trailer ready after sitting in storage, so I know I have to have the water heater cycle through a few times. But I've cycled the heater 15 to 20 times and nothing. I know I'm getting LP flow; the stove and fridge both ignite. I can get a whiff of LP by the heater but I don't get any ignition and I don't hear any "clicking" when it attempts to cycle.

Any thoughts before I take it down to the shop for service?

Thanks in advance.

Robert
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Old 07-11-2022, 04:47 PM   #24
chuckster57
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Make and model of W/H would help. Some have a mini 2A fuse on the control board.
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Old 07-11-2022, 05:03 PM   #25
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Sorry... it is the same type as what was originally being talked about in this thread... Suburban SW6DEL.
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Old 07-11-2022, 05:10 PM   #26
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The control board is on the back side and the igniter wire plugs into it.

I would verify that the igniter wire is plugged in, and after that you need to check the gap on the electrodes.
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Old 07-11-2022, 05:20 PM   #27
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The "backside"? The igniter wire is siliconed into the housing. Do I have to pull the entire water heater out to get at it? I've attached a couple of pics.
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Old 07-11-2022, 05:46 PM   #28
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There should be access inside. It may be a panel with screws, it could be behind a drawer.
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Old 07-12-2022, 06:15 AM   #29
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Took a look this morning. There is no easy access panel.

The control board is on top of the water tank behind a panel that is stapled. It's the back of the bench seats. I'll have to see if there is a way to pull that away from the frame without destroying the panel.
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Old 07-12-2022, 07:26 AM   #30
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Can you take the cushion off, the platform may be screwed down in the corners.
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Old 07-12-2022, 10:34 AM   #31
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I attempted to remove the panelling... no access behind it.

I did find out there is access through the storage door just beside the heater. Two screws holding down a half-box. Remove those screws and slide out the half-box and you can get access to the control board.

The board was shot. Put in a new one and everything fired up perfectly. A little disappointing for a 2018 model to have the control board crap out.

Thanks for all the assistance.
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Old 07-12-2022, 10:54 AM   #32
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OEM< igniter boards are often not that great.. The best replacement.. IMMO is one made by Dinosaur
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Old 07-12-2022, 11:31 AM   #33
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Quote:
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OEM< igniter boards are often not that great.. The best replacement.. IMMO is one made by Dinosaur
I agree 110%
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