Fuse Box Location and Fridge on 2002 Keystone Springdale Clearwater

[theweatherman]

New here, and to RVs. Please let me know if this should be posted elsewhere in the forums, or if I am otherwise not following forum protocols.

I am trying out a 2002 Keystone Springdale Clearwater 19’ travel trailer and struggling to get the refrigerator to work on electric. Can anyone tell me where the fuse box is located, or provide other thoughts on troubleshooting? Thank you.

[flybouy]

Typically it's behind a brown colored "door" that you push in to release. Often it's under the fridge but could be anywhere close to the floor in plain sight.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum
Are you looking for the fuses to the fridge or the fuse and breaker panel for the trailer?

Does the fridge work on LP? Brand and model of fridge will help us help you.

[theweatherman]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Typically it's behind a brown colored "door" that you push in to release. Often it's under the fridge but could be anywhere close to the floor in plain sight.

Thank you! Found the main fuse/breaker box. It was near the floor just left of the fridge. Reset everything and resuming tests now.

[theweatherman]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Welcome to the forum
Are you looking for the fuses to the fridge or the fuse and breaker panel for the trailer?

Does the fridge work on LP? Brand and model of fridge will help us help you.

Thank you! Was looking for the general trailer fuse/breaker box. Located that. Reset all breakers and checked all fuses there. Are there separate fuses for the fridge?

I do not have good documentation for that appliance on hand. It appears to be an Americana, made by Dometic. So far, I haven’t been able to get it to work on electric or propane. LP to the stove is working, so I assume it is not air in the lines.

[chuckster57]

Open the access panel at the bottom of the fridge outside. You should see the 12VDC from the trailer, connected to a plastic “block”. Test for 12V on both sides. After that just follow the positive wire, testing for voltage at each terminal

This may help:

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairH...roubleshooting

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by theweatherman

Are there separate fuses for the fridge?

Following the 12v from the little terminal block to the circuit board is good advice. But to answer the above question, yes there is, at least on newer dometic fridges. On my last 3, which were identical on the control side, there was a slow blow 3a glass fuse in line with the red wire. And there was a fuse (glass I think but maybe not) on the circuit board under the black plastic cover. Though I never had them fail. And finally, there is a 3rd fuse, sometimes referred to as a thermocouple(r) or a thermal fuse. It's inside of a cloth/plastic/asbestos sleeve near the chimney but not on the chimney.

Edit: I thought of another one, sort of, but it may not be on your earlier than mine dometic. Also in the outside compartment, low on the chimney (and actually on the round chimney) there can be a small round black circuit breaker of a sort. On mine there is a small push button reset. If you see one, check both sides with your DVM to be sure 12+ is passing through it. Check both sides of the thermal fuse the same way.

[jsb5717]

If the trailer is new to you and you've never used the fridge you might check:

1. If it's plugged in to the 110v plug behind the exterior lower vent
2. If the 110v breaker is on - Interior fuse panel
3. If the Thermal Fuse is tripped - on the chimney - exterior lower vent
4. also check to see if the fridge has been overheated. See below

You can locate the 110v heating rod that drops into the chimney and see if you can move it or if it's frozen in place. There are 2 heavier gauge black wires coming off of the control board that lead to the visible end of the heating rod. Find that and see if you can move it a little side to side. If you can't move it then you have a bigger problem. Read on...

I just did a full replacement of the entire cooling system on my nephew's trailer as a result of overheating that fused the heating rod to the cooling unit. Might be worth checking, along with the reset-able thermal fuse mentioned above. If the thermal fuse is tripped the fridge won't work until reset or replaced. You can always unplug the wires and jump them so see if the fridge will work.

[theweatherman]

So many thanks! I’m testing your suggestions now. Interior fuses and breakers seem fine. Getting some cooling on LP. On Auto, the “check” light keeps coming back on.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Do be aware that you must have 12 volt power to the fridge before it will work on 120 volt or propane. It powers the control board.