Awning tension

Bolo4u · 04-16-2017, 08:03 AM

I did a search but none of the posts I find related to awnings, addresses my question; and reading the owners’ manual only talks about manual retraction in the event of power loss. Here is my problem: when the awning is fully retracted and the motor reaches it limit switch and turns off, the awning at the motor end has enough tension that is has started to pull the track away from the coach. Is there a way to adjust the amount of tension/pull on the awning so when it’s retracted it’s not pulling against the track so severely? I've attached a picture of the problem at the motor end only, as the non-motor end doesn't seem to be doing the same thing.

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**chuckster57** · 04-16-2017, 08:39 AM

There is no adjustment for motor tension, and as far as I know, there isn't a limit switch either.
Looking at your picture, I would question the placement of the rail. Looks like it might be lower than the fabric roller and if it is, I think that may be the issue.

Bolo4u · 04-16-2017, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

There is no adjustment for motor tension, and as far as I know, there isn't a limit switch either.
Looking at your picture, I would question the placement of the rail. Looks like it might be lower than the fabric roller and if it is, I think that may be the issue.

The reason I say limit switch, is, once the awning is fully retracted and the vertical side rails are against the coach, the motor stops turning. Maybe not a limit switch per-se, bit something causes the motor to stop rolling.

Yes the awning rail (and specifically the part of the track the awning slides into) where it attaches is a good ~1-2" or so below the top of the roller when retracted. I'll try to get a better pic showing the angle.

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**chuckster57** · 04-16-2017, 09:36 AM

The motor quits because of the tension on it, not a lot of torque but obviously enough for your damage. My guess is the rail was place too low and the motor is pulling "up" when the awning is retracted.

**JRTJH** · 04-16-2017, 10:15 AM

I agree with Chuckster. From the picture, the awning, when in the stowed position, is higher than the awning rail. That would put "upward tension" on the screws holding the awning rail to the trailer. Sort of like putting a claw hammer under them and pulling on the awning rail. It looks like the awning, when being retracted, as it reaches the trailer sidewall, that momentary tension before the motor "bogs down", is pulling the awning rail, "up and away" from the trailer sidewall.

Bolo4u · 04-16-2017, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I agree with Chuckster. From the picture, the awning, when in the stowed position, is higher than the awning rail. That would put "upward tension" on the screws holding the awning rail to the trailer. Sort of like putting a claw hammer under them and pulling on the awning rail. It looks like the awning, when being retracted, as it reaches the trailer sidewall, that momentary tension before the motor "bogs down", is pulling the awning rail, "up and away" from the trailer sidewall.

Yes it is definitely pulling up at an angle from the awning portion of the track toward the top of the roller. I've only extended the awning once or twice, so as far as I know, this is the manner it was rolled up when I took delivery. Does it have to be rolled up with the awning going over the top vs. rolling it up so the awning is "inside out" and rolling under the roller, which would put it more level or even a slight downward angle?

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**sourdough** · 04-16-2017, 10:54 AM

My trailer isn't here but I believe my awning extends and retracts with the awning material on top of the roller.

**JRTJH** · 04-16-2017, 11:08 AM

When extended, when standing at the front of the awning looking to the rear, the awning rolls up counterclockwise. That means with the top of the awning going over the awning tube so that once stowed, the awning rail is "protected" by the awning that comes "straight out or slightly down" from the awning rail. This makes the awning a "drip cap" to cause water to shed away from the trailer.

In the picture, when stowed, any water dripping off the trailer roof would "trench against the trailer" between the awning tube and the trailer sidewall. That will eventually cause the awning fabric to rot from excess moisture that won't dry or cause increased possibility for water leakage aong the awning rail/drip rail where it's attached to the trailer.

**chuckster57** · 04-16-2017, 11:55 AM

Like John said:fabric should always be on top of the roller tube.

Bolo4u · 04-16-2017, 04:03 PM

Here are a couple of additional pics, which better show the angle which the awning is pulled up and away from the side of the coach. I don't know how it would get fixed, as the awning frame has no adjustment down and there is an approximate 1" hole drilled into the side of the coach for awning/light power, and if they moved the track up there would be holes from the first round of attachment.

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**sourdough** · 04-16-2017, 04:15 PM

It very much appears to me that the awning is too high. Whether the track was placed too low or the support arms too high.....?? It might be easier to lower the arms than reposition the track. Seems like there are just a few screws holding the arms up and they are inside the arm so hopefully out of sight and the old ones could be sealed.

**chuckster57** · 04-16-2017, 04:20 PM

They could mount the rail with the holes on the bottom, that would raise the bead. flip it over and cover the existing holes.

Sourdough: moving the arms is not an easy process. The tops have 4 lag screws and there are more in the fixed arm. Trying to cover the holes left over up top would be a real PITA.

**JRTJH** · 04-16-2017, 04:27 PM

I believe your trailer is "out of warranty" ??? If so, probably the best way to repair this would be to install a new awning rail above the old one, then remove the old awning rail (the area would be protected from rain because of the awning above it). Next, use epoxy to seal all the holes, finish them "fairly well" but without a lot of effort, then install a LED strip light over the area where the holes were. The adhesive from the light strip will adhere to the area, the LED strip will "hide the holes" and everything would then be protected "from above".

NOTE: The above is just a quick suggestion without knowing about any other damage or other factors that might preclude doing that type of mod.

PARAPTOR · 04-16-2017, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

It very much appears to me that the awning is too high. Whether the track was placed too low or the support arms too high.....?? It might be easier to lower the arms than reposition the track. Seems like there are just a few screws holding the arms up and they are inside the arm so hopefully out of sight and the old ones could be sealed.

Pretty sure those arms are riveted to the rig

**sourdough** · 04-16-2017, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

They could mount the rail with the holes on the bottom, that would raise the bead. flip it over and cover the existing holes.

Sourdough: moving the arms is not an easy process. The tops have 4 lag screws and there are more in the fixed arm. Trying to cover the holes left over up top would be a real PITA.

Ahh. I have only looked at them superficially and from what I saw (inside the arms vertically - looking from the ground) there didn't seem to be a lot to it. That, plus when the service manager said replacing them was "easy" - this after they bent one arm when on their lot by hitting it with another trailer or the little bobcat thing and had to replace the whole thing (arms; plus stove vent, trim, and tabs on the fridge cover). I suspect he tried to downplay it because I was in "ballistic" mode at the time.

**chuckster57** · 04-16-2017, 04:44 PM

Top of the arms are screwed. I've seen both rivets and screws on the lower portion.

Bolo4u · 04-16-2017, 06:59 PM

The trailer is still in warranty, purchased new in September 2016, getting it to the dealer (about 180 miles away, one way) for service is another issue, as it's where I stay during work 4 days a week. There are 4 lag screws at the top of each vertical fixed arm and another 4 rivets in two different spots further down, on each side, plus the large hole where power comes from the coach at the top of one arm where the motor is.

I would guess flipping the awning rail over and reusing the same holes would be an option, but it's getting it to the dealer for them to decide. Our first big trip is about 4 weeks long, beginning in July through the middle of august. I may just wait until after, that way they can repair any other issues that we may discover.

Pics are top to bottom of fixed arm, motor side only

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**sourdough** · 04-16-2017, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Top of the arms are screwed. I've seen both rivets and screws on the lower portion.

You are absolutely correct. I remembered the lag screws and the attachments down the inside of the arm, but, I also discussed with the SM what they were going to do with the rivets - so I was mistaken on that point. There's nothing to replace/move the rivets but the lag screws would probably be a different issue. Top rail may be the better option.

If the OP has until July I would seriously consider getting this repaired...especially if it's under warranty. The warranty period magically disappears before we know it and Keystone will disavow anything after that. Plus, depending on where the OP is going, that trough will collect all manner of stuff (leaves, pine needles, etc. etc.) and in a month that stuff can turn into a real mess, and at the same time rot the awning. I would be for fixing it before ANY extended trip. I've cleaned rotted, gooey, stinky crap out of my gutters after 4 weeks. I can't imagine that stuff sitting and fermenting on my awning material.

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