equal-i-zer near impossible to hitch with more spacer washers

[theeyres]

Maybe I missed it somewhere in four pages of responses...but have you called Equal-i-zer? When I had one on a former trailer I found them the most responsive of anybody I have ever dealt with. They bent over backwards to solve any issues I had. Give them a call. They will solve your problem.

[archer75]

I have spoken with them. They were unable to resolve my issue. I provided all the information requested and everything they had me do were things I've already done many times.

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[Tbos]

If some adjustments don't fix my issue I'm going to call. Sometimes I miss the obvious. Thanks.

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[Tbos]

This afternoon I went over to the TT to see if I could latch the coupler. I had problems unlatching last week when I brought the new one home. Normally I lower the TT all the way on to the truck before I latch it. This time the only way I could latch it was if I closed it right as weight started to be applied to the hitch ball. Same unlatching. Never had this issue with the old TT. I cleaned and regreased the ball but saw some scoring on the front near the top. Do I need to replace it?

[JRTJH]

Based on your pictures and the number of washers that are installed in your hitch, it "looks to me" like your hitch ball is angled quite a bit. If you can imagine in the drawing I've attached, the ball is angled toward the back of the coupler recess and the hitch ball is "rubbing" on the top of the coupler recess "shoulder". I'd suspect that you may have some "similar but not as bad" scoring along the bottom of the hitch ball where the coupler is rubbing on it at the front of the coupler recess. (there may not be any scoring on the bottom, but likely there's some).

Now, the question becomes: Did the scoring occur with your "old trailer" or with the "new trailer" ??? The hitch ball is the "stronger of the two" so there should be similar scoring inside the coupler recess. I believe (my hunch) that you'll find similar scoring inside the coupler if you get down below it and use a good light to examine it carefully. You will probably have to remove any grease or other lube that you've applied over time. If you don't see any scoring inside the coupler on your new trailer and you have access to it, you might want to see what the inside of the old coupler looks like.....

Now, why does the scoring occur? My guess (and this may be way off base) is because of the "tilted/angled" hitch ball riding on the edge of the coupler recess because of the angle that you're hitched. I "think" that if you don't have any damage/wear on the inside of the coupler and if you purchase a new ball and can get it to a more vertical position, you'll eliminate the scoring.

Keep in mind, this is a "hunch" based on looking at your two pictures and I might well be "WAAAAAY offbase"....

[archer75]

I have the same exact scoring.
You do have a lot of angle on yours. Have you tried moving the L brackets up a notch and removing several washers?

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[Alpine]

Here is a shot in the dark! What in the world could be scoring the "top" of the ball to that extent? Looking at the diagram JRTJH added...I see nothing that should score the top of the ball at any angle!? First thing that I would do is clean the inside of the coupler and run my finger inside looking/feeling for a manufacture defect. Anything up inside that coupler would obviously create difficulty lowering it into a proper position!

Hey, you may be rolling your eyes and shaking your head LOL! I said it's just a "shot in the dark!

[Tbos]

I'll check inside the coupler for something that could cause the scoring. Since I have only towed the new TT for about 60 miles I'm guessing it's from the old TT. Never had a problem coupling it. This one I do. I'm going to buy the wrenches I need and try removing a washer or two. Equalization is right on the money now. I hope removing a washer or two won't mess it up. L brackets are just about all the way up.

[Tbos]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Based on your pictures and the number of washers that are installed in your hitch, it "looks to me" like your hitch ball is angled quite a bit. If you can imagine in the drawing I've attached, the ball is angled toward the back of the coupler recess and the hitch ball is "rubbing" on the top of the coupler recess "shoulder". I'd suspect that you may have some "similar but not as bad" scoring along the bottom of the hitch ball where the coupler is rubbing on it at the front of the coupler recess. (there may not be any scoring on the bottom, but likely there's some).

Now, the question becomes: Did the scoring occur with your "old trailer" or with the "new trailer" ??? The hitch ball is the "stronger of the two" so there should be similar scoring inside the coupler recess. I believe (my hunch) that you'll find similar scoring inside the coupler if you get down below it and use a good light to examine it carefully. You will probably have to remove any grease or other lube that you've applied over time. If you don't see any scoring inside the coupler on your new trailer and you have access to it, you might want to see what the inside of the old coupler looks like.....

Now, why does the scoring occur? My guess (and this may be way off base) is because of the "tilted/angled" hitch ball riding on the edge of the coupler recess because of the angle that you're hitched. I "think" that if you don't have any damage/wear on the inside of the coupler and if you purchase a new ball and can get it to a more vertical position, you'll eliminate the scoring.

Keep in mind, this is a "hunch" based on looking at your two pictures and I might well be "WAAAAAY offbase"....

I've been thinking about this a lot. With a round hitch ball the only thing I think would keep the coupler from latching should be if the ball is not as far forward and up in the hitch as it should be. With the full tongue weight on the truck it squats quite a bit. That makes the ball have even more of a downward slant. I'm guessing that could be enough to make it not fit properly and cause the coupler to not latch. Coupling right after weight starts to be applied works and then when the Equalization bars are attached everything is at the right heights and angles. Do you agree that if my assumptions are correct it is safe to tow? Do I need to replace that scored hitch ball?

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[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Tbos

I've been thinking about this a lot. With a round hitch ball the only thing I think would keep the coupler from latching should be if the ball is not as far forward and up in the hitch as it should be. With the full tongue weight on the truck it squats quite a bit. That makes the ball have even more of a downward slant. I'm guessing that could be enough to make it not fit properly and cause the coupler to not latch. Coupling right after weight starts to be applied works and then when the Equalization bars are attached everything is at the right heights and angles. Do you agree that if my assumptions are correct it is safe to tow? Do I need to replace that scored hitch ball?

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I don't think your hitch ball is "unsafe". (ugly but functional)... The "strength" of the hitch ball (when towing the trailer) is in the shank. So long as the shank is not damaged, the hitch ball is OK to use.

That said, you're correct in assuming that the reason you're having issues with locking the coupler is the position of the ball in the coupler socket. As long as the coupler flange isn't stopping the coupler from sitting down onto the ball (hitting the hitch before the ball is completely into the coupler) then the problem is probably something to do with the ball not riding far enough forward, causing the "coupler fingers" to not be able to travel far enough to engage "under the ball"...

I've got the same problem with my flatbed trailer. The coupler latch will "slip under the ball" as weight is being applied, but simply won't latch once the ball is completely inside the coupler. Like you, I think the reason is because the ball "rides" too far "back" in the coupler socket. Whether it's because of "angle" created by washers on the hitch, "slope" created by how the truck/trailer settles due to hitch weight or "mis-match" caused by the ball and coupler "shape" not quite allowing the ball to come to rest in the center of the coupler. For whatever reason, there's difficulty in getting the coupler "fingers" to slide under the ball.

I'd think that if you've found a procedure where you can simplify coupling (as I have also done) and that procedure minimizes your "hassle factor" so that you can "reliably hitch/unhitch" without having to resort to using a hammer or crowbar to get the tow vehicle free at the campground, then you've pretty much solved your dilemma.

Is the scored hitch ball unsafe? Nope, I'd use it, but I'd make sure I keep a good coat of grease on it and watch for further scoring. It shouldn't wear like that and if it doesn't continue, I think you'll be "good to go"...

[Tbos]

JRTH, thanks for your advice. I appreciate you jumping in and helping with this issue.

[JRTJH]

No problem. Enjoy your travels !!!

[Tbos]

Update, I removed a washer and I can couple with no issues. It's uncoupling that's the issue. If I happen to find the sweet spot I can uncouple but it is very difficult to find.

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[mfifield01]

I have the same Equal-i-zer on my 2810bh and had some trouble getting it off. I have found that I can usually get it out at a mid point. Basically where the tongue jack has just touched the ground, but hasn't taken all of the weight off of the ball/hitch. There's definitely a good mid point that works well for me. One other thing is to put the truck in neutral and let the trailer roll into the chocks. This can take tension off of the ball area.

[GaryWT]

If I am paying attention, I will see the handle move slightly, that is my sweet spot. If it does not open up at that point I put the truck in gear and move slightly and then it opens right up. The more you do it, the better you get at it.

[Tbos]

GaryWT, mfifield01,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try it this weekend.