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10-31-2013, 09:09 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roller4Tan
Through other posts and my own experience the slides and power jacks are exempt from the battery switch. as they do not present a current draw when not in use. So your panel wiring and anything run by the remote will be hot.
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In most cases the slides and jacks are fused/breakered in the converter panel. so either the WHOLE panel or NON of the panel is disconnected with the battery discconnect switch.
In my case the tongue jack is not run through the panel so it is not disconnected by the master switch. All the rest of the 12V comes from the converter panel and is disconnected.
If the trailer is wired with the slides not going through the panel, then they could be hot with the disconnect switch off.
__________________
Outback 295RE
2004 Silverado CC/SB/ 4x4 Duramax
Pace 14' bike hauler with full living quarters
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10-31-2013, 09:13 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airforceret
Bob,
I replaced the touch panel under warranty and while disconnecting wires from the touch panel, many of the wires began sparking against one another. So apparently the touch panel wiring is exempt from the battery disconnect.
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I'm not claiming to know all of the intricacies of how your trailer 12V wiring is installed. I'm just saying that if you are not plugged into shore power, the only 12V source you are going to have is the battery. If your control panel is between the battery switch and the battery, it has power all the time. Personally, I would redo it so that everything in the battery including the control panel was dead. Even though you think the panel is turned off, there are still parasitic loads that will drain a battery such as sensors, radio/TV memory, etc. The only things that have power when my battery is turned off is the breakaway switch and the tongue jack.
__________________
2011 Outback 277RL
2013 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.2L
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel
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10-31-2013, 09:30 AM
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#23
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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What I did with my Cougar (which has a factory installed 12V cutoff switch) is install a second cutoff switch on the negative lead from the battery box to the front wall distribution panel. The factory switch is installed AFTER the first 30Amp autoreset fuse. That fuse is connected to the front landing gear, slide, main convenience panel, break away switch and front landing gear lights. There may be other circuits I haven't discovered wired to that breaker also.
From that breaker, the 12V lead goes to the factory installed cutoff switch and from there to the second 30Amp autoreset fuse which then goes to the 12 volt fuse panel in the converter.
So, in essence, on my Cougar, turning off the battery cutoff switch only disconnects those components that are routed through the converter panel. I believe that's why the front landing gear, slide, etc have "in line" fuses hidden throughout the wiring harness. They aren't protected by the fuse panel in the converter.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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10-31-2013, 11:05 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry
Number 3. All of the overheard 12V lights in the living area, kitchen are controlled by wall switches, the bedroom overheads are not.
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And they put the light right over the bed in our passport where I can't reach it without climbing on the bed.
__________________
Kristi & Jeff
2014 Cougar 313 rli
2013 F350 king ranch
2014 passport 2650bh (sold)
2009 GMC 2500HD 6.6L 4X4 (sold)
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10-31-2013, 05:31 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Okla
Posts: 363
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On our vantage, the switch to control the slide is very low to the floor, where a small child could easily reach it. Seems like an accident waiting to happen and a huge liability issue to me, especially when you consider how much little kids like to play with switches.
Would make more sense to have it high up on wall, next to the control panel. I would think it would have saved wiring to put it there too, since that shares a wall with converter and is closer to slide. Where factory put it is just inside the door, on opposite side of trailer from both converter and slide, and about 2 feet above floor.
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10-31-2013, 08:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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On my Hideout the shore power cord pushes into it's opening behind the spare tire mounted on the rear bumper. Can't move the tire or it will be in front of the furnace vent. Only choice is to carry the spare tire in the truck bed or fight the cord.
__________________
Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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11-01-2013, 05:08 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theeyres
On my Hideout the shore power cord pushes into it's opening behind the spare tire mounted on the rear bumper. Can't move the tire or it will be in front of the furnace vent. Only choice is to carry the spare tire in the truck bed or fight the cord.
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Having to work around the spare tire to get the power cord in and out would get to be a PITA pretty quick. Have you considered converting to a detachable cord?
__________________
2011 Outback 277RL
2013 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.2L
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel
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11-05-2013, 09:30 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mishawaka, Indiana
Posts: 238
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Well in my humble opinion, if it says "battery disconnect" then it really should do just that... or relabel it as "work on it at your own risk as this does not entirely remove the battery from the electrical circuitry of this unit"
__________________
Roger and Dawn
Mishawaka, Indiana
2013 Cougar 280RLS / 2012 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
2001 Wrangler (Moab Rock Crawler) / 2008 Can Am Outlander 400 4x4
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11-05-2013, 10:21 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airforceret
Well in my humble opinion, if it says "battery disconnect" then it really should do just that... or relabel it as "work on it at your own risk as this does not entirely remove the battery from the electrical circuitry of this unit"
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And a correctly located battery switch will do exactly that. The exception is that the breakaway switch is connected directly to the POS post because you want it functional even if you are towing with the switch turned off. Another item that stays connected to he hot terminal is a power tongue jack, if you have one on the trailer. There's no reason really for doing that either way, I've just never seen the jack connected any way but directly to the positive terminal. Neither the jack or the breakaway switch are going to have any relevance to the interior 12V systems in the trailer.
__________________
2011 Outback 277RL
2013 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.2L
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel
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11-05-2013, 06:05 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry
And a correctly located battery switch will do exactly that. The exception is that the breakaway switch is connected directly to the POS post because you want it functional even if you are towing with the switch turned off. Another item that stays connected to he hot terminal is a power tongue jack, if you have one on the trailer. There's no reason really for doing that either way, I've just never seen the jack connected any way but directly to the positive terminal. Neither the jack or the breakaway switch are going to have any relevance to the interior 12V systems in the trailer.
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I agree completely, however if your Jack has a light and switch on it, make sure the light is turned OFF!! I always double check the jack light to avoid a dead battery.
__________________
Outback 295RE
2004 Silverado CC/SB/ 4x4 Duramax
Pace 14' bike hauler with full living quarters
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11-09-2013, 05:36 PM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 62
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Found an interesting one today while attempting to winterize. Here were my low point drains:
Notice how "accessible" the hot water low-point drain is? I must have not noticed it last year and just dumped cold and then did my normal winterizing (blow out & then pump antifreeze) since I was at a campground and winterized as we were packing up. It's a good thing it worked out and nothing burst, but I guess the antifreeze mixed with the water well enough to do its job. I decided to go ahead and take the time to fix it instead of rolling the dice again, plus do an upgrade while I was at it:
I still need to tape it up, but it's somewhat hard to even see the cut and the whole setup is *much* more user friendly now. All they needed was a 8" piece of red PEX instead of a 5" piece, and I wouldn't be writing this. I also would have been able to finish winterizing today.
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11-23-2013, 12:46 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Garland, Texas
Posts: 6
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Think about a house. It is built with a wiring diagram but that is an electrical drawing not mechanical so you do not know haw the wires are physically routed. I think RVs are the same, they have a wiring diagram but not a physical layout for running the cables. About the breaker, wire plug issue, who knows what they were doing.
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