Air for winterizing?

[Oilfan97]

What are people's thoughts on using compressed air to blow out the water lines for winterizing?

I've seen instructions that say to use air.....I've seen instructions that don't....I've heard people say it's risky etc.


*Edit


For the record, I will be using anti-freeze either way. I'm just not sure about blowing the lines out first.

Gets down to -40 up here.

[RollaMo]

It is a personal preference.
Some will use air, some won't.

If you DO, then just don't go crazy with the pressure.

[RV Vacation]

Originally Posted by Oilfan97

What are people's thoughts on using compressed air to blow out the water lines for winterizing?

I've seen instructions that say to use air.....I've seen instructions that don't....I've heard people say it's risky etc.

Great campfire topic creating lots of pros and cons.

Before the addition of on board "Winteration" and "Low drain" controls, using air to blow out the water lines followed by hand pumping in RV anti-freeze, was highly recommended.

Of course there were, and are, those who think the more air pressure the better and kablewie goes the water line(s).

For us 'oldtimers' who can still remember, hand-pumping RV anti-freeze in to water lines, goes a bit smoother with the lines first purged of water. [ahhh, those were the days.]

Thanks for the memories and happy camping.

[wiredgeorge]

If I lived in the frozen north, I would drain my hot water tank, leave the anode out and shut off water to the tank using the bypass valve. I would then run antifreeze via my water pump through the system and add antifreeze to the P traps under sinks and tub. Blowing out the lines is more suitable technique for places that don't see prolonged cold weather (like Texas!).

[TXiceman]

We have always winterized with air. Be careful to blow all the water faucets, toilet valve and drains with air. Open the water heater and leave it open and bypassed. Open and leave open the water pump strainer. Fill all the P-traps and toilet bowl with RV antifreeze.

Ken

[Max23]

This will be my first year doing it myself. Plan is to drain all low points. Use air to blow it out, drain low points again, just to be sure, air through the black flush as well. Then pump anti freeze through the whole thing. Winters can be very unforgiving up here and to me, relying only on air would be risky as there is only one chance to be sure because as cold as it gets, not thorough will be breaks in the system in the spring. My biggest fear is just forgetting a spot. Like the outside shower or something. Ya I'm remembering now, but......... lol.

[dutchmensport]

I don't understand why folks blow first, then add the antifreeze. It makes better since to add the antifreeze displacing the water, then blow the antifreeze out. This way the lines are emptied and the water is removed.

But for what it's worth, use a low pressure. Set your air compressor to about 40 psi (which is more than adequate) and attach the hose.

You want to attach one of these (Click here) to your water inlet where you attach your garden hose. Then connect the air compressor hose to the blow out plug. If you get the type of blow out that's a valve stem (like in a car tire), then someone has to stand there and hold the hose on the stem. It takes 2 people. So, get the blow out that hooks directly the to air compressor hose.

Again, I recommend doing the RV antifreeze first, then blow out the antifreeze. You'll be very protected for winter that way.

[Max23]

Why would you want to add anti freeze then blow it back out? A bit counterproductive I would say. Leaving it in there protects everything completely. I understand not blowing it out first as your adding anti freeze behind it so what's the point you might say. My thought is, not saying I'm right by Amy means, not at all, but my thought is if you don't get the water out first, you dilute the antifreeze more with any areas holding water. I don't know again. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible. Don't know that there us a right way or wrong way. As long as you get the whole system and don't forget any spots.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Max23

Why would you want to add anti freeze then blow it back out? A bit counterproductive I would say. Leaving it in there protects everything completely. I understand not blowing it out first as your adding anti freeze behind it so what's the point you might say. My thought is, not saying I'm right by Amy means, not at all, but my thought is if you don't get the water out first, you dilute the antifreeze more with any areas holding water. I don't know again. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible. Don't know that there us a right way or wrong way. As long as you get the whole system and don't forget any spots.

I agree on using air followed by RV antifreeze. A lot of folks report using air only but my thoughts are for the cost of the antifreeze I'll sleep better knowing my FW pump is protected. On our unit that has an outdoor kitchen it takes about 2 gal of antifreeze. I buy 3 gal and when finished I place the remaining jug on the floor next to the toilet. This way when I check on the camper over the off season I'll have antifreeze to add to the toilet if needed. I do not leave the WH anode out as I don't want to have critters use it as a water bowl or a nesting place.

[hlh1]

I blow out the system with 40 psi then hook a hose up to the water pump and draw in the antifreeze and run it out into the entire system. I also pour antifreeze into the black tank, that's never dry, and the gray tanks via the sinks.

[terrythetech]

In My Cougar up here in Minnesota/Wisconsin temps also get that low. In over 7 years I have never had a problem with sub-zero freezing by blowing out our water lines with a small air compressor that I set to 30 psi and connect it to the water supply garden hose connector. I open each line separately to blow them out 1 at a time. Then I open the low point drains and let them blow out as well. I then pour some rv antifreeze into the sink and toilet drains. If there is no water to freeze and expand there can not be anything to cause trouble. I also removed the hot water sacrificial rod and left it out as well. opening the bypass and closing it to get the water out of anything that can cause issues. I leave all the faucets open until spring. Don't forget to get rid of the water in the shower and the outside shower as well. No problems in 7 years.

[Camping family]

I look at it this way. The cost of antifreeze is a lot cheaper then the cost to repair or replace pipes. My opinion is air is fine if you live in a warm climate and temps in winter don’t get down and stay down below freezing for days. Me I run antifreeze through my lines. Drain low point lines. Drain hot water heater and leave anode loose. Leave all faucets open making sure to add antifreeze in the drains and black tank. Don’t forget outside shower if you have one and outside kitchen if you have water to it. Our winters are not that bad but I just don’t take a chance. Takes one good cold snap to have problems.

[bigrockk]

Originally Posted by Oilfan97

What are people's thoughts on using compressed air to blow out the water lines for winterizing?

I've seen instructions that say to use air.....I've seen instructions that don't....I've heard people say it's risky etc.
*Edit
For the record, I will be using anti-freeze either way. I'm just not sure about blowing the lines out first.
Gets down to -40 up here.

I live where it gets down to those temps as well, for years I have used air first (Compressor set at 25psi, 30 max) and then antifreeze, so far so good!

[rcashdollar]

I live in Colorado and I blow and then add antifreeze to the P traps. I’ve never had a problem.

[coastn]

I also live in Colorado but at 11,000 feet in the High Country. Never have blown the lines. My reasoning is why displace water with air and then displace air with anti-freeze? Have used anti-freeze for 20 years with 9 rigs and have yet to have a problem. 2-3 gallons of anti-freeze is low cost insurance vs. a mistake in blowing the lines anyway. Just jinxed myself.

[t001xa22]

One extra thing I would like to add: I learned this the hard way, of course. On my unit with the Dometic 300 series toilet, I did the air blowout and antifreeze add, but forgot to allow for the water line feeding the flush foot valve. Next spring, I started season make-ready, and guess what I found: the flush valve housing had split open. I was lucky that it just required a valve replacement, but lesson learned.

[kkmet]

I blow the lines after draining the hot water tank (HWT) and opening up the low point drains. Before I bypass the HWT i close the low points and use compressed air regulated to 50 psi. there are check valves in the tank fill that need to be blown out. I then bypass the the HWT and open the furthest water valves and let the spitting and spurting begin. I work my way backward to the closest. ***(Including flushing the toilets, outside shower, etc)*** Then do it again. Low point drains opened back up again I let the air run for about another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add Pink stuff to all p-traps and toilets.

I make sure that all of the fresh water tank valves are open and leave them just cracked. Drain the last goodness out of grey and black tanks into a 5 gallon bucket and you are good to go.

WASH YOUR HANDS and have a beer. You're done. 30 minutes ish tops.

Cougar 366RDS

[Yvon Royer]

I thought it would be easier using air and it worked the first year I must have missed a bit of water in the toilet flush valve so I had a water leak the first time I used it at camp the next year. I’ll save you a description of the inconveniences suffered during the trip. So it’s antifreeze only for me now.

285EFS Cougar 5th Wheel
Andersen hitch

[DDuncan51]

I've been using air for over 20 years. I live in a part of the country that can and usually does get down well below 0 degrees F. As pointed out, don't use too much pressure. I set mine at 40 lbs. Also, make sure you either run the water pump dry or, as I do, disconnect and blow out the water pump separately.
You'll need a pretty damn good compressor to maintain 40 lbs. Mine won't, so I watch the gauge, if it gets down to 20 I shut off the air line and let it pump up to 40. Kind of slow, but I don't like the bad taste the antifreeze leaves in my mouth.

[oldnjrver]

I can see merit in all the approaches described so-far.
As for me, I blow out my lines with 40 psi air.

Then open the low point drains, followed by another squirt of air.

I then bypass my water heater, re cap the low point drains and pump in the antifreeze, opening each faucet for sinks and drains, and finally flush the toilet, until my last jug of antifreeze is empty.

From what I've read any significant amount of water in the lines will seriously reduce the effectiveness of the anti-freeze.

After 6 winters, I've had no problem.

A close friend of mine was told all that he needed to do was blow out the lines with air.. That didn't work out so well for him. He had to deal with leaks after the first time he tried air only.

He now religiously pumps in the antifreeze.

Thats what works for me..

Safe travels and all the best