New Trailer, Brakes Need Adjusting?

uechikid · 02-17-2020, 06:55 PM

We have a new bullet 269RLSWE. I installed the Tekonsha P3. I read the instructions and have watched the video from the company on features and how to adjust it.
I’m not able to adjust it to any where near the point of getting the tires to chirp. The only thing I can think of is the brake on the trailer weren’t adjusted correctly at the factory.
Anyone else have to adjust their brakes on their brand new trailer?

**sourdough** · 02-17-2020, 07:01 PM

I've not had to, but, did you check that with the selling dealership before taking off? I've owned a P3 and they are good. Are you set up correctly? How are you trying to get the tires to "chirp"?

uechikid · 02-17-2020, 07:24 PM

I set the P3 to the level of braking I think is needed, then drive at around 25mph, let off the gas and push the lever on the P3 to the left. I can get it to engage the brakes but it only slows me down a little.
Check with the dealer about adjusting the P3 or whether the brakes were adjusted at the factory?

**sourdough** · 02-17-2020, 07:36 PM

What level do you think is needed? The one needed is the one that gives adequate braking - which is a pretty wide range with the P3. Have you ran the power up?

bobbecky · 02-17-2020, 09:56 PM

Your initial setting according to the install instructions should be 6.
These are the power setting instructions, and once this is done, there is also a boost adjustment that needs to be done. Depending on the weight of the trailer, you may never get the tires to 'chirp':

Adjusting the Power to the Trailer Brakes (Prior to setting Boost)
Once the control has been securely mounted, it is necessary to set the power needed to stop the trailer during a braking event.
1. Connect trailer to tow vehicle.
2. With engine running set power (with Power Buttons) to indicate 6.0
3. Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved surface at 25 mph and fully apply Manual Knob.
3 If trailer brakes lock up:q Turn power down using Power Buttons.
3 If braking was not sufficient:q Turn power up using Power Buttons.
4. Repeat Step (3) until power has been set to a point just below wheel lock up or at a sufficient force as to achieve maximum braking power.
5. Using the brake pedal, make a few low speed stops to check the power setting. Trailer braking is initiated and terminated via the stoplight switch. When the brake pedal is released, trailer braking will cease.

uechikid · 02-17-2020, 10:11 PM

Thanks for posting the instructions. I just reread them in the manual. I'll check tomorrow to see if the initial settings are correct. I thought I went through the setup when I first installed it

Thanks..

Jfreek65 · 02-17-2020, 10:20 PM

I run the same controller and have good braking on my 2018 27res with settings around 5.0 and boost set to 2 or 3. The boost definitely does make a difference with middling to bigger trailers.

Brake adjustment is important too.

uechikid · 02-19-2020, 11:53 AM

I checked the setup of the P3 yesterday. I don't know what I did but it was setup wrong. I had it set on hydraulic and boost 1. I changed it to electric and boost 2. I'll get the trailer out Saturday and adjust the power level again.
Thanks for your help.

LHaven · 02-19-2020, 12:35 PM

I had precisely the same behavior with my new Cougar and the controller in my new F250. I swore the problem was in the controller (especially since the controller in my old truck set up correctly as far as I can recall), but the dealer checked it out over and over. I even went to the trouble of constructing a bypass harness for the trailer connector so that I could test with the manual switch on an inexpensive but known good third-party controller that I had from an older truck, and it gave me the same results.

So I brought the rig in to some local trailer experts (not my RV dealer), and they found grease had pushed past the seals on all four wheels (I had just had that fresh lube work done elsewhere, never going back there) – so they cleaned it, resealed and relubed, and told me that once the cleaning solvent evaporated, the brakes should work fine… but they never have.

Right now, my plan is to bring the rig back to the same experts before the start of this year's camping season, and have them do a complete check up on the brake system along with the annual wheel lube. If the problem isn't there, I have no idea what I'm going to do about it.

**JRTJH** · 02-19-2020, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHaven

...
Right now, my plan is to bring the rig back to the same experts before the start of this year's camping season, and have them do a complete check up on the brake system along with the annual wheel lube. If the problem isn't there, I have no idea what I'm going to do about it.

I've never seen brake shoe linings that would "function correctly" after being contaminated with grease from a "short cut called the EZ Lube system". Cleaning contaminated brake shoe lining simply won't clean the grease out of the lining material.

The only "cleaning shortcut" short of replacing the brake linings, magnet actuator and hubs is that you "might" (probably won't) get lucky and are able to clean the hubs. If you can get the hubs clean, your brakes will be OK. If you can't get the hubs clean, you risk contaminating the new brake shoes when you reassemble the axle, so it's a "judgement call" whether to replace the hubs along with the magnets and shoes or "take the risk"....

I don't know of anyone who will suggest that brake shoes can be "cleaned and will be OK"....

My suggestion would be to buy new brake assemblies (built up backing plates with everything already assembled) and pull off the old parts, have the hubs resurfaced (if they are thick enough) or replace them if they can't be resurfaced, and once you get them back from the machine shop, repack the wheel bearings, replace the seals and reassemble the axles, adjust the brakes and then follow the "guidelines to "burnish" the new brake shoes to the new hub surface. Only then will you get "maximum braking effort from grease contaminated brakes.

Brantlyj · 02-19-2020, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHaven

I had precisely the same behavior with my new Cougar and the controller in my new F250. I swore the problem was in the controller (especially since the controller in my old truck set up correctly as far as I can recall), but the dealer checked it out over and over. I even went to the trouble of constructing a bypass harness for the trailer connector so that I could test with the manual switch on an inexpensive but known good third-party controller that I had from an older truck, and it gave me the same results.

So I brought the rig in to some local trailer experts (not my RV dealer), and they found grease had pushed past the seals on all four wheels (I had just had that fresh lube work done elsewhere, never going back there) – so they cleaned it, resealed and relubed, and told me that once the cleaning solvent evaporated, the brakes should work fine… but they never have.

Right now, my plan is to bring the rig back to the same experts before the start of this year's camping season, and have them do a complete check up on the brake system along with the annual wheel lube. If the problem isn't there, I have no idea what I'm going to do about it.

Once you get grease or oil on the pads they are done. Replace the pads and you should be good.

**flybouy** · 02-19-2020, 02:58 PM

Agree with the contaminated brake linings are trash. Their next stop should be in a recycle or trash bin.

LHaven · 02-19-2020, 04:47 PM

I'll have to check the invoice to see whether they replaced the linings when they did the cleaning last year. Right now it's inaccessible for a week. I'm not a motorhead, so stuff like that on an invoice is likely to just fly over my head.

Logan X · 02-19-2020, 06:04 PM

To the OP- if you want to check to see if your brakes are working, jack up the wheels and pull the emergency brake cable. The wheels should not spin if the brakes are adjusted correctly.

LHaven · 02-19-2020, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Logan X

To the OP- if you want to check to see if your brakes are working, jack up the wheels and pull the emergency brake cable. The wheels should not spin if the brakes are adjusted correctly.

As long as you realize that the wheel stopping is not an indicator that the brakes are adjusted correctly. Brakes that can stop a tire turning freely won't necessarily stop a wheel under weight and load. In both the OP's case and mine, the manual brake controller button produces a small stopping force, but nothing like what it ought to be.

The test I really ought to do is to hitch everything up, sit in the bed of the truck, and pull the emergency brake cord while the rig is moderately underway, but I haven't had the courage to do that.

uechikid · 02-19-2020, 07:21 PM

I think if I’m going to go to the trouble of pulling the trailer out and jack it up, I might just as well take the wheels off and and actually check the brakes.

**chuckster57** · 02-19-2020, 07:37 PM

You can pull the break away pin and then put the TV in drive, We use the forklift at work.

Brantlyj · 02-19-2020, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

You can pull the break away pin and then put the TV in drive, We use the forklift at work.

I thought I read that having the pin pulled for more than 10-15 seconds will burn up the magnets. Guessing that was incorrect information?

**chuckster57** · 02-19-2020, 08:03 PM

I haven’t had that happen yet. When we do an axle service we will lift the trailer so the tires are off the ground. First thing we do is pull the pin to verify all brakes are in fact working. I have had the switch Melt but during this service Is the ideal time to find it. Usually a short will cause this, but I have yet to melt a magnet.

**JRTJH** · 02-19-2020, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHaven

As long as you realize that the wheel stopping is not an indicator that the brakes are adjusted correctly. Brakes that can stop a tire turning freely won't necessarily stop a wheel under weight and load. In both the OP's case and mine, the manual brake controller button produces a small stopping force, but nothing like what it ought to be.

The test I really ought to do is to hitch everything up, sit in the bed of the truck, and pull the emergency brake cord while the rig is moderately underway, but I haven't had the courage to do that.

If you've got a sliding rear window, you can tie a length of cord on the breakaway switch plunger, route the cord through the open rear window and into the front seat. Drive normally and when you're up to the desired speed, in an area where you can make an "emergency stop" without fear of any other vehicles around you, simply pull the cord and see what happens. You should stop, and it ought to be a "quick stop"....

That said, I wouldn't try it above about 10 or 15 MPH (there's no reason to be going faster) as you may find a "control issue" if the brakes on one side lock up and the other side doesn't...

Anyway, there's no reason to "sit in the bed of the truck" to pull the plunger on the breakaway switch.

You may also like: