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Old 04-28-2015, 05:11 PM   #1
gkainz
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2010 245RL electrical issue

2010 245RL electrical conundrum ...

this is really odd. I have 2 overhead lights in the slideout. One would assume they are on the same circuit. Circuit 15 in the DC panel is marked "Slide Out" and is an orange/white wire.

both light fixtures have LED bulbs in them, and now 1 fixture illuminates normally and 1 fixture is very dim. (Edit: Tested ALL LEDs in light 1 and light 2, as well as replaced them temporarily with incandescent original bulbs).

The dim fixture (light 1) reads 7.8VDC at the wire connector at the fixture connections when any load is on the circuit. Meaning 1,2, or 3 LED bulbs in the fixture and switch on reads 7.8VDC at the fixture.

With ALL bulbs removed, the fixture reads 13.8VDC when switched on.

With bulbs installed, the switch reads 7.8VDC, bulbs removed (no load), the switch reads 13.8VDC.

The orange/white wire reads 13.8VDC at the DC panel regardless of load or no load.

Removing fuse 15 disables the fixture (light 1 ONLY).

Light 2 works normally ... except ... it's not on circuit 15. Pulling the fixture down exposes a green/white wire.

Circuit 4, Kitchen is the green/white wire at the DC panel. Pulling fuse 4 DOES NOT disable Light 2 - it continues to burn ... oops, bad choice of words ... "stays energized".

Thru trial and error, I discovered pulling fuse 2, marked Furnace, connected to yellow/white wire causes Light 2 to go out. The Fridge is also on this circuit, altho not marked as such.

So, anyone able to put all those clues together and make some guesses as what to check where?

The real oddity is Light 1 worked last season and nothing was changed over the winter.


Somewhere green/white to Light 2 is broken/cut between DC panel and before slideout, and then connected to (intentionally/accidentally or via wire damage?) yellow/white wire near or around furnace or fridge?

Bad + or - connection on orange/white wire on the way to slideout Light 1?
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:29 PM   #2
JRTJH
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It sounds like you've got a bad electrical connection to that dim light, but where that problem is located ???? Heaven only knows.

RV's use mobile home splice connectors to transition from the coach to the slide out. They look similar to the picture I'm posting. You may find them in a cabinet near the slideout, under the floor in the "basement" (above the coroplast) or hidden somewhere close to the slideout. They are used to connect/disconnect the "removable" slide during manufacture.

I've had a couple of problems in the past with these splice connectors working loose. Just wiggle them, plug them back together, and things are good to go.

It's possible that your problem is that simple???? Let's hope so.

Good Luck
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:32 PM   #3
14george
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Check cord between slide and camper for damage or pinched
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:59 PM   #4
gkainz
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Thanks. Did that 1st. No obvious pinch, rub, or other damage.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:01 PM   #5
gkainz
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Besides the dim light, even more odd to me is the other light being green/white but deenergizes with the fuse on the yellow/white circuit.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:17 PM   #6
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When I replaced the incandescent tail lights on my Springdale with LED tail lights, the wires on the umbilical (up front at the 7 pin connector) were brown, green and yellow. At the rear, connected to the lights were red, white, blue and black. So it doesn't surprise me that your wires "change color" in the wiring run. How they wire these things and how they can connect the right appliances/components to the right switches is "magic" because there's no "logic" involved....
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Old 06-30-2020, 05:05 AM   #7
gkainz
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Well here we are 5 years later and ... I FINALLY FOUND IT! In replacing my cable management tray on the slide, I opened up the wire loom looking for a plug so I could slide the wires into the new standoffs. Didn't find a plug, but I did discover a bulge in the loom with squeeze splices (and said AHA!) where I found a corroded and broken wire up in the splice. So, there were enough strands to carry some voltage but little to no amperage (before it broke completely), which caused the odd readings with the meter.
Replaced the splice with a weatherproof butt splice PLUS more shrink tubing PLUS a healthy wrap of electrical tape. Should be good for another 10 years?
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