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Old 06-19-2019, 06:16 PM   #1
MattHelm21
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Chalking?

I’m not sure how to characterize this? Does anyone have any ideas what’s going on here? I did not notice this in the fall but did this spring, two+ years into ownership on the side of the RV which is exposed to the sun in the afternoons. The dark areas appear to be where the sides are bonded to the frame structure. I’ve also taken a cleaning wax and worked on a spot(the oval you can see in one of the pictures) which made it better or at least darker to match the area over the frame.

Just to be clear, the passenger side shows no signs of this and the shine and wax is intact. In short, any ideas what the cause is and the best way to remediate before it gets worse?

One more thing, I frequently come out in the morning and with the dew, that side of the trailer is completely wet only where the side attaches to the frame.
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:24 PM   #2
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Condensation is typical where the aluminum structure is located. I have often suggested that owners check their trailer in the early morning to "mark where the aluminum is located" if they want to install a bracket or a shelf on the outside of their RV.

So, that said, here's a "theory" on what "might be happening": Your trailer sidewalls attract condensation almost every morning. That water carries with it traces of pollution from the atmosphere. As the sun dries the dew on the trailer, that pollution has "stained the FILON siding".... Might not be what's happening, but I've had vinyl siding on our house "stain" from "water with iron it it as the sprinkler hits the side of the house" and I've had "black streaks on my trailer that were from "dirty stuff on the TPO roofing" that washed down the sides, leaving stains. Fortunately, the "dirty sides" if cleaned regularly, don't "bake into the FILON".... It looks to me that maybe you've got some "pollution filled dew" that's baked into your FILON.....

Maybe, maybe not, but worth taking a look to see if maybe.....
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:29 PM   #3
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It looks like with enough work and reapplication of wax, it will clean up. I’m just not sure I’m up to the task anymore. Not to mention I don’t work well 13 feet in the air any longer.

Any ideas what product to try? The cleaning wax seems to have made a start but I was thinking a polishing compound and rewaxing might be necessary. I just don’t want to create more damage trying to repair it.
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:31 PM   #4
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Oxidation obviously. How often do you clean/wax the trailer? How is it stored - inside or enclosed? Those answers tell you how you have to attack the issue.

I am facing the same issue. I keep my trailer inside but it sits in FL for about 5 1/2 months and then our short trips. I used to think a thorough wash, wax and applying 303 would keep it at bay. This year, I applied 303 to the back but did not have the time/opportunity to do it to the side that always has the sun. And there you have it....just what you have.

In the past I've used Meguires 51? compound for the light stuff followed by a paste wax. After this last trip (it's not bad) I'm going with the same Meguires and paste wax, let it cure and follow up with 303. What I will do in the future is apply 303 about every 3 mos. even if it is in enclosed storage. The 303 soaks in and needs to be replenished pretty often.

Lots of our folks use lots of different things that work for them....and I'm still looking for the "perfect" coating that let's me not do it anymore....but, I don't think that exists.
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:36 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by MattHelm21 View Post
It looks like with enough work and reapplication of wax, it will clean up. I’m just not sure I’m up to the task anymore. Not to mention I don’t work well 13 feet in the air any longer.

Any ideas what product to try? The cleaning wax seems to have made a start but I was thinking a polishing compound and rewaxing might be necessary. I just don’t want to create more damage trying to repair it.


I'm right there with you. The product I listed previously is not an abrasive and works well. I use it with a buffer (low speed) with a gray or blue non abrasive pad. Since I tore up my shoulders and bicep muscles at the end of 17, waving the buffer around is really problematic. I've talked to the dealership about having it buffed out and waxed - it's $10 ft. for the box. My problem is what they will use to do it and the guy they just hired from Jack in the Box to do it........
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:36 PM   #6
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Mine sits outside all the time. Unfortunately, washed and waxed only twice a year(probably not enough) and given the northeast, not at all in the winter. No cover.
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Old 06-08-2020, 08:36 AM   #7
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Update: Something worked

Its been a while since I posted this thread. I just completed a repair I think is worth adding in case someone runs into the same situation I did. Its not for the faint of heart but the results, if not perfect, are amazing. First, credit where credit is due, a member of a facebook group which includes primarly Keystone toy haulers responded to a Fuzion owner having the identical problem I posted above. His solution is unique and with scepticism and little to make things worse, I decided to give it a go. Following the procedure I tried a small area about 1 square foot. Satisified with the outcome, I began doing one to two square feet a night completing the affected side from the slideout to the rear. This weekend, I went all out and finished the affected side and ramp door. Before posting the procedure, I'm going to post some pictures taken of the same area after the repair in order to compare apples to apples:
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Old 06-08-2020, 08:42 AM   #8
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These really don't do justice to the work so I'm going to add two more:
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Old 06-08-2020, 08:54 AM   #9
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Finally, the how. Again, I don't take credit for this. As previously pointed out, this is oxidation of the Gelcoat likely dew to facing the sun in combination with the morning due which sits between the bonded frame until it evaporates each morning.

Wax was applied to any affected Gelcoat in one to two square foot areas. Instead of supplied applicators or microfiber, the green side of a yellow/green scotch/brite pad was used(you'll need a lot of these). Using the pad, a gentle swirling action is used until you can feel the roughness of the oxidation smooth out or release. The provider of the technique described it as a conversion of the oxidation back to GelCoat but I can't say. Once there and the wax has dried to a haze, he recommended and I purchased my own 10 inch random orbital buffer from Harbor Freight(very inexpensive). You'll need extra bonnets. I eventually switched to microfiber bonnets. Using the buffer, remove the wax to achieve the results you see in the picture.

Like abrasive, I suppose there is a chance to go right throught the GelCoat but I never came close and even getting wax on the graphics and running the buffer over them did no damage. Now for the wax. The author recommended using Turtle Wax paste wax but I had so much trouble removing it, I tried Mcguiar's Flagship Premium Marine liguid wax and really preferred the results.

Best part of all. I didn't fall off the ladder.
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:04 AM   #10
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Here are two more to show contrast as I did the ramp door:



And I guess that's a wrap until the next time I need to apply wax.
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Old 06-20-2020, 09:14 PM   #11
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...and follow up with 303. What I will do in the future is apply 303 about every 3 mos. even if it is in enclosed storage. The 303 soaks in and needs to be replenished pretty often.
Nice work, Matt!

Danny - which 303 are you referencing here?

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Old 06-21-2020, 06:55 AM   #12
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Nice work, Matt!

Danny - which 303 are you referencing here?

Bill

This is the 303 I referenced:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aer...s%2C182&sr=8-4

I keep 2 spray bottles (one for DW) and a gallon refill on hand.
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Old 06-21-2020, 07:06 AM   #13
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I use the same 303 as Danny. I buy it "a gallon at a time". Much cheaper that way, $55 for a gallon or $16 for 10 ounces, which works out to roughly $160 a gallon. The gallon size lasts me about 3 years. I use it on my boat, trailer, ATV/UTV, tractor, car/truck and even the plastic shutters on the house.
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Old 06-21-2020, 10:27 AM   #14
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Ok, I know the stuff well, but I’ve only used it on the plastic/vinyl/rubber parts of the vehicles. Wasn’t sure if there was something else. Are you using it on the exterior walls along with/over top of a wax or sealant or just the 303 alone?

I’ve been using an automotive sealant on the exterior of the camper that I’ve used on my vehicles for years. Avoiding these staining streaks from the evening dew and contaminants you described is something I want to avoid. We get a lot of dew here (Florida humidity).
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Old 06-21-2020, 11:09 AM   #15
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I use 303 on the FILON walls. Something to consider if you also choose to do the same: Most automotive wash/wax products are petroleum based. 303 is water based, so if you wash with something like Maguiar's Wash and Wax, you need to let the trailer sit for a day or two for the oil in the Maguiar's to dissipate before trying to wipe on a coat of 303. If you apply it too soon, the 303 will "gel" (for lack of a better term). It's sort of like mixing water and oil. They only work well together on salad, not on FILON....
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Old 06-21-2020, 12:00 PM   #16
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^^^^^X2.

I posted about this happening to me. I used a Meguiar's wax on mine (buffer) and decided to promptly follow up with a rub down of 303 because I was unsure of the UV protection in the wax. Sprayed a small section and took the towel to buff it and it was like it was stuck on semi dried glue; no smooth sliding, gliding or anything else.... And, it made that entire little section streaky and yukky.

I had followed up waxing before with 303 but generally after several weeks, not right after I applied it. The oils in the wax had not had time to "cure" (for lack of a better term) before the 303 was applied resulting in a mess.
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Old 06-21-2020, 12:28 PM   #17
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I use a German made sealant. Well, it used to be made by Menzerna, a German company, it was called FMJ. Best dang paint sealant I ever found, and I’ve been through many. It’s now made in the US by Jescar and it’s now called Powerlock. Still, There isn’t a bug nature created that can stick hard to this sealant (love bugs don’t even get through it and etch the paint if you know what love bugs are and what havoc they can wreak on clear coats). I’ll have to look it up and see what it’s base is. It’s a six month schedule. Late April, right before the rains and bugs come and then again in sept/oct so waiting a few days won’t be a big problem. Thanks for the tips guys. Happy Father’s Day.
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