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Old 03-06-2023, 10:51 AM   #1
kyle.leduc
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120 outlets not working

I have an 09 keystone cougar 327 RES. Recently I have lost all 120v power to back wall of camper and passenger slide outlets. The GFCI circuit is good and the c/b for the receptacle circuit. Yet only random outlets work on the receptacle circuit. Again. All GFCI outlets are good. Anyone have a 120v wire diagram so I can chase the wires
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Old 03-06-2023, 12:27 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum

Unfortunately wiring/plumbing schematics are not published by Keystone, even us techs can’t get them. Troubleshooting can get tedious, what kind of testing have you done so far?
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Old 03-07-2023, 04:03 AM   #3
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If you have a friendly electrician, or phone guy, as them about a toner wand and signal generator. You will be able to trace your wires right thru the wall. They’re a really handy way to check wire routing. Make sure the power is off while using.

Good luck!
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Old 03-07-2023, 05:20 AM   #4
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Although this is easier when everything is working (or once they are). Due to other reasons I tucked away a diagram with all outlet locations and which on the same circuit. Ultimately this more likely be:

1. A bad breaker (easy to check) - just test the output of each breaker.
2. bad gfci (easy to check) - you already tested/reset each and they all seemed to mechanically work. - you didn't say if they were powered correctly.
3. a bad connection on one of the outlets (the RV "blade connector" came loose...if it is on the line end, then that outlet has power...on the load end, then there is no power to the next outlet.

Last is that there is a break in a wire and I'm just discounting this as it should be rare.
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Old 03-07-2023, 08:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle.leduc View Post
I have an 09 keystone cougar 327 RES. Recently I have lost all 120v power to back wall of camper and passenger slide outlets. The GFCI circuit is good and the c/b for the receptacle circuit. Yet only random outlets work on the receptacle circuit. Again. All GFCI outlets are good. Anyone have a 120v wire diagram so I can chase the wires
You say the GFCIs are good. Did you pull them from the wall & snap the back of them off? If not try that.
I had the same issue, searched for the problem for couple days, finally pulled the GFCI at the lavatory to find that the load side of that plug had arced & burnt off, the line side was still hot so the plug showed power with the voltmeter, but all the plugs downstream were dead, replaced that plug with a shallow box & used a good quality GFCI plug rather that cheap thing they used.
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Old 03-08-2023, 09:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pull Toy View Post
If you have a friendly electrician, or phone guy, as them about a toner wand and signal generator. You will be able to trace your wires right thru the wall. They’re a really handy way to check wire routing. Make sure the power is off while using.

Good luck!
This! I had a dead receptacle that I had a heck of a time figuring out. All the boxes that seemed to feed it were fine. Put tone on it and traced it with a wand in the opposite direction I thought and found a hidden box that had one wire off the blade connector.
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Old 03-08-2023, 05:27 PM   #7
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I have a couple tone generators and they make troubleshooting much easier and can be used to trace behind most walls.
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Old 03-09-2023, 05:23 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Dacheedah View Post
I have a couple tone generators and they make troubleshooting much easier and can be used to trace behind most walls.
Question on toner....what type of connectivity/conduction do you have to have to work. If the wiring is compromised at the first outlet will the tone continue beyond? Or do you have to go "outlet to outlet"
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Old 03-09-2023, 06:05 AM   #9
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Well I would just use my MM and test from outlet to outlet... I would start at the first outlet in the "daisy chain" and test from it back to the circuit breaker and BUS bars...

Once I determined first outlet was good then i would test from first outlet to next outlet in the chain.. Done it that way for decades...

Signal tracers are nice when you dont know where the wire goes to, or are looking to "pick up" a set of wires at the other end.. etc..

The issue the OP has can be tested and nailed down to where the issue is at in under an hour.. tops... with just a MM
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Old 03-12-2023, 08:22 AM   #10
Jim Burger
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I would agree with ChuckS, after tracing faulty circuit on my 2006 Keystone 5th wheel. Found one junction box installed on the Slide Out portion that had water in it. All circuits downstream of this JB did not have power. Replaced rusted failed wiring to JB and all worked fine. Good luck
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Old 03-12-2023, 03:47 PM   #11
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I would agree with ChuckS, after tracing faulty circuit on my 2006 Keystone 5th wheel. Found one junction box installed on the Slide Out portion that had water in it. All circuits downstream of this JB did not have power. Replaced rusted failed wiring to JB and all worked fine. Good luck
OP mentioned slide outlets not working and this issue is the first thing that came to my mind.
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Old 03-13-2023, 07:54 PM   #12
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It’s been a couple of weeks since this thread was started, but since a solution has been declared, I’d to add a couple of ideas not yet addressed. I like plugging in a simple circuit tester that shows open hot legs as well as open neutral legs using 2 orange lights and one red light. Knowing if a neutral or hot wire is open is helpful. An area I’ve found for a conductor to lose continuity is where Romex wire changes to flexible cord often referred to as S O cable. Keystone uses a special male to female connector to join these 2 different types of wire at each slide out. This connector is typically located within the coroplast enclosed frame center section. This type of failure will cause multiple downstream outlets that have no power.
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