Generator size for running A/C?

[tundrwd]

Have a 2016 Keystone Bullet 27BHS, single A/C.

I'm just kicking tires right now, but wondering if anyone knows what it will REALLY take to run the A/C (not really anything else), or most general things (charge batts, inverter, TV), WITHOUT A/C?

Obviously a 2K generator would be easier to "sell" to the SO, than a 3K generator, but I really question if the 2K generator will really be sufficient.

Also - brands? I know Honda/Yamaha are "among the best", but wondering about some of the similar Generac/Champion units, which seem to be a few hundred less...

[bobbecky]

We use two Honda's, linked together when needing to run an A/C, and the rest of the time, use just one, which will run most everything else. We do switch the fridge and water heater to gas only operation when on generator. A 3,000 watt unit will run an A/C, but I personally find the 2,000 watt generators much easier to handle. I had considered a larger generator, to have been hard mounted in the bed of the truck, but decided I would rather have a storage box than a generator taking up that space, as the generator would not be used very often, and the smaller units give us quite a bit of flexibility during power outages. There are a number of very good brands and size options to consider, so shop around and get what will best work for what you see as needed.

[chuckster57]

General rule of thumb is 3500 watts for A/C. It's not the load running but the start up load that requires a lot. Some people have changed the start capacitors but if it's new it might mess with the component warranty.

[nellie1289]

this will run it for a fraction of the cost, just as queit, and many other things in your trailer. Highly recommend!

https://www.costco.com/Champion-2800...100302560.html

[mfifield01]

Originally Posted by nellie1289

this will run it for a fraction of the cost, just as queit, and many other things in your trailer. Highly recommend!

https://www.costco.com/Champion-2800...100302560.html

I agree and have the same generator running my 15k A/C. Once the converter has charged the batteries up, I can run it in ECO mode during A/C startup.

[fourfourto]

Anyone know how many watts for side (home type) that's on the summerland mini 1750rd

[mfifield01]

Originally Posted by fourfourto

Anyone know how many watts for side (home type) that's on the summerland mini 1750rd

Depends on what you run. I would get this to test: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...YQZHBTF8S4RP55

Here are my numbers from testing:

Converter with 1 week between power - 101w and dropping fast
Water Heater with cold water - 1350w
Microwave - 1340-1360w
A/C with Auto - (Constantly rises) starts at 1150, after 15 minutes it's at 1433w
A/C with Lo - About the same maybe 40 watts lower
A/C with Hi - about the same as Auto
Fridge - 340w

[Thunder_SS]

Here's my experience...

I have a Generac 2200W, and I have done a lot of testing, both math and real world...

My 15k AC takes 16.5 amps to start and 12 continuous and invertor takes 4 amps to run (according to the manual).

So if we do that 2200 watts+120 volts = 18.3 amps. I can start my AC and than turn my invertor back on, but it will not start the AC with the invertor already running.

In the end it all in the amps (start up and continuous)

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[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by nellie1289

this will run it for a fraction of the cost, just as queit, and many other things in your trailer. Highly recommend!

https://www.costco.com/Champion-2800...100302560.html

I have the non-parallel version of that generator, going on our third season with it. It will start/run our 15K BTU AC unit just fine, run the converter, inside and outside fridges all at the same time.

At first startup, I turn all the breakers off, let the generator warm up and stabilize, then flip on the breaker for the AC, let that run for a bit and turn on the rest of the breakers.

It is a great generator and at the price, from Costco is well worth having.

I am almost 63 and can load it in the bed of the truck by myself.

-Brian

[fourfourto]

Originally Posted by mfifield01

Depends on what you run. I would get this to test: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...YQZHBTF8S4RP55

Here are my numbers from testing:

Converter with 1 week between power - 101w and dropping fast
Water Heater with cold water - 1350w
Microwave - 1340-1360w
A/C with Auto - (Constantly rises) starts at 1150, after 15 minutes it's at 1433w
A/C with Lo - About the same maybe 40 watts lower
A/C with Hi - about the same as Auto
Fridge - 340w

you have a rooftop a/c short of buying a meter just wanted to know watts of a/c wall unit.Ill look for the plate on unit if its not covered?

[Steve S]

I have a few gensets but just before I went to Alaska I bought a new 4500 watt Yamaha EF4500iSE with the remote. It's a little bit of over kill but when I'm on the road with miles in between nothing and nothing it's nice to know that I can run everything without blowing fuses and breakers. While traveling in the winters I can run a big space heater, tv, fridge, all the lights etc and it's never had to go up to the max rpm to keep up with the demands.
In the summer it has no problems running the AC and the rest of the trailer plus it's dead quiet.
All of my camping is off grid and away from people as that's the way that I like things to be so spending the extra and having a well known brand name that just won't give up on me is well worth it in my mind.

[busterbrown]

I own a Bullet with a Dometic A/c unit, probably the same one you have. I purchased the remote start 3100/2800 Champion last summer as the pricepoint was extremely easy on the wallet. For the limited amount of time I used it, it powered my coach with ease while the AC was starting and running. There's probably not much reserve left after taking into account the concurrent draw from converter, ac, and refridge. But it never tripped the generator. Last fall, deer camp was uninterrupted as it powered a couple of space heaters, converter, refrigerator, and TV.

I, personally, would not purchase a smaller size inverter generators unless you're going to parallel two 2000s together. The red and blue brands are definitely well built. But the Champion series is no slouch either. Look at the reviewd. It will leave some extra cash in your pocket as it's one of the highest "watts per dollar" gennys on the market.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by Steve S

I have a few gensets but just before I went to Alaska I bought a new 4500 watt Yamaha EF4500iSE with the remote. It's a little bit of over kill but when I'm on the road with miles in between nothing and nothing it's nice to know that I can run everything without blowing fuses and breakers. While traveling in the winters I can run a big space heater, tv, fridge, all the lights etc and it's never had to go up to the max rpm to keep up with the demands.
In the summer it has no problems running the AC and the rest of the trailer plus it's dead quiet.
All of my camping is off grid and away from people as that's the way that I like things to be so spending the extra and having a well known brand name that just won't give up on me is well worth it in my mind.

I bought a Yamaha EF 6300 three our for years ago for use at the track and to have some backup power at home in case of a power outage. It is quiet, reliable, and has been 100% problem free. It's not something that you are going to just pick up and throw in the back of your truck (about 240lbs when full of fuel), but I had an enclosed trailer at the time with a rear loading ramp, so it wasn't too difficult to load up. My new Toy Hauler has an onboard 5500 watt Onan, so I won't be using it much anymore....other than during a power outage I guess.

[Olsen29]

I am picking up my new premier ripr this afternoon. I have a 15 year old Honda eu2000i. During negotiations I said the generator had to run the AC. I found micro-air easy start and brought it to the to try on the dometic 15000, I had my doubts but micro-air said it would absolutely run it. I was prepared to downgrade to a smaller unit. They set it up yesterday and it does work. I will keep you updated with any problems or observations.
PS. In my 2000 jayco I changed AC units to one that was designed to be in a motor home, had a start capacitor and a high efficiency compressor. Ur worked fine. Couldn't run much else.

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[dcg9381]

I've got the champion 3500. It runs AC (and the fridge) flawlessly. The only time I've run into trouble is if you turn on the electrical heating element at the water heater. Do it on gas and you're fine.

These are fairly loud, inexpensive units that can come with wheel setups.

[B-O-B'03]

We had a power outage last night, the utility said it might be several hours before they had it restored, so I broke the Champion out of the shed, filled it with gas and it started on the first pull... Ran some extension cords around the house, to get my network, cable, phones and some lighting going... I have 3 DVRs and shows to record

-Brian

[NorskeBob]

I use a 4000 watt Yamaha when I need the AC. Honda 2000 watt when I don't

[Olsen29]

I can can confirm that my eu2000i runs my Dometic 15000 with hardly a grunt with the easy start. Tried it yesterday and while the AC was up and running I turned on the refrigerator and they work at the same time! Now I didn't let them both cycle, I am very happy with the setup, even if I have to run the refrigerator on propane. Couldn't be happier!
I plan on a big mod and tweak thread starting soon....

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[flybouy]

Ohms law states Volts X Amps = Watts therefore if you have a 30 amp connection you will have 3,600 Watts available. Supply more watts is good, less and you obviously limit the number of available appliances that can be used. How you get that 3,600 + watts is a complex formula on how much you want to spend, how often you will use it, how valuable your hearing is (running decibel levels).

[Olsen29]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Ohms law states Volts X Amps = Watts therefore if you have a 30 amp connection you will have 3,600 Watts available. Supply more watts is good, less and you obviously limit the number of available appliances that can be used. How you get that 3,600 + watts is a complex formula on how much you want to spend, how often you will use it, how valuable your hearing is (running decibel levels).

I agree. But for those of us that want to travel light it was money well spent for the easy start to be able to use a 15k AC unit with a 47 lb generator and watch TV at the same time. I can't run the AC, microwave a hot Pocket and toast a pop-tart while my wife blow dries her hair while brewing a pot of coffee at the same time.
But I can chill with a generator that I already have that runs quiet and cheap and is easy to carry.
I have 2000 watts continous power to spend. The coach has a 30 amp service so you can Not run everything at the same time. Now even the the 3000i doesn't supply that much.
I'm just saying that you can live very comfortable ANYWHERE with a Honda 2000i @47lbs if you don't have to run everything at once.
I'm not trying to sell this thing. Just sharing information because it is a game changer for me when going to race events car shows and large group camping without hookups.

Originally Posted by flybouy

Ohms law states Volts X Amps = Watts therefore if you have a 30 amp connection you will have 3,600 Watts available. Supply more watts is good, less and you obviously limit the number of available appliances that can be used. How you get that 3,600 + watts is a complex formula on how much you want to spend, how often you will use it, how valuable your hearing is (running decibel levels).

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