Water Heater Drawn Pan Replacement

[KennethLyon]

First, thanks to all who unselfishly give of themselves to solve our problems on this forum. Hopefully one day I can return the favor.

I have a 2007 Outback 31RQH that has been in a coastal environment, under a metal cover, for most of its life. Like others, I have my share of rusty hardware that I replace often. I noticed that the metal front section ( it's called drawn pan in the parts list ) of my Atwood GC6 water heater was rusted out in several places along the bottom. I can push through the metal and see the inside of the camper. Beings that I too have the ocassional drip from the pop-off valve, water can now enter the camper instead of just running down the side. Apparently the drawn pan is a replaceable part and I have one in hand, however, no tech at any of the 11 area dealers has ever changed one, according to the calls I made. They told me that they just replace the whole heater when they find that issue (can you spell $$$$$$?). I do all my own maintenance and this doesn't look too hard. The only thing I can't seem to discern is exactly how the drawn pan is attached to the tank and surrounding foam insulator. Are there any "gotchas" that I'm missing or need to look out for when I attempt this project? Thanks
Ken

[Festus2]

Rather than trying to remove and replace the rusted pan, is there enough of it left to cut a piece of galvanized sheet metal that would fit over it? If you can manage to drill enough pilot holes and fasten the two together with SS screws that might be an easy and much cheaper fix than what you are presently looking at. I know there isn't much room for drilling but you might try fastening it from the sides instead of the bottom. Wondering if an expoxy glue might work instead of screws????
I hope that I am thinking of the same "pan" that you are ........

[KennethLyon]

I believe you're thinking about a "drain" pan. The "drawn pan" is the black metal end of the water heater that faces you when you open the access door. It has both ends of the burner tube coming through it and has the gas valve and igniter board screwed to the front of it. It looks like if I remove the burner and valve, flue, and the pop-off valve and all the screws around the outside, the pan should come off. My only question is how it's attached to the tank and/or insulation. The replacement part doesn't look like it has any attachment points on it other than the perimeter screws. I'm going down tomorrow to look it over a little closer before I attempt the fix.

[KennethLyon]

Completed the drawn pan replacement project. The hardest part, as I suspected, was dealing with the compression rings that slip over the combustion tube ends. The old ones had to be cut off with a Dremel tool and bit. The new ones had to be walked down the tubes with a small punch and hammer a little at a time. I replaced the relief valve, drain plug, door hinges, and thermostats. The thermostats have to be changed because you can't salvage the sticky-back foam cover to re-use it. And you can't buy that seperately, it only comes with new stats. All the screws have been replaced with stainless hardware. All in all, I had less than a hundred dollars in parts and about 4 hours time. Better than the new heater plus labor ($1000) the RV repair shops wanted. If you have any specific questions, e-mail me.

[Festus2]

Thanks for keeping us up-to-date about the removal and replacement of the pan. Not only did you save yourself a considerable amount of money but also gave you the satisfaction of doing it yourself and doing it well. Congratulations!

[hankpage]

Thanks for the detailed thread. I too live near the ocean and have to stay on top of things rusting. My pan is galvanized but is also showing signs of rusting at the bottom. I was hoping that I did not have to replace the complete heater and your posts lessened my concerns of $$$$$ outlay. Thanks again and travel safely, Hank

[2011 keystone]

One more reason I like this forum. I would never had the guts to try this repair but now I no if I ever have this problem I can.
Thanks for your post and pics.
NOW get out there and camp