Air Conditioner Tips

[larrygiordano]

Hey all, We are taking our 2017 Springdale to Florida for a couple weeks (Fort Wilderness)end of June and I was wondering if anyone had any tips on keeping our air conditioner running at its best. I did a thorough cleaning inside and out, made sure all the fins were straightened, etc. What I was looking for was tips on when is the best times to run it, we'll be away from the camper most of the day. Full blast? Open a vent? Hoping to hear from those that spend more time in Florida type heat then we do (from PA) . Thanks for any suggestions keeping the family cool !

[bsmith0404]

Just set the thermostat and leave it. No secret to running the AC. The only thing I would do differently is if you are having trouble keeping it cools during the day, you can shut off rooms that aren’t being used, bathroom/bedroom and open the grill to allow the air to dump into the living room instead of pushing through the ducts. Don’t leave it like that for long periods (more than an hour or so) or it’ll ice up the AC, but you can do it to drop temps in the main room quickly.

[JRTJH]

I think the most important "owner step" in air conditioner longivity is to use an EMS and NEVER run the air conditioner in a low voltage condition. It's not only hard on the compressor operate in hot weather, it's doubly hard on the compressor when there's a low voltage condition which increases the amperage requirement AND the increased amperage also increases the temperature of the compressor, so it's being "double whammied" and significantly increases wear on the compressor internals....

Always keep the fan speed on HI or AUTO, even at night when you're looking to reduce noise so you can sleep. Many humidity/temperature conditions will cause the air conditioner to freeze up when operated on LO fan setting. That does the same "increased wear/decreased longivity" as a low voltage condition does to the unit....

Otherwise, keep it clean, change/clean the filters and keep the ductwork sealed and it should last much longer.....

[flybouy]

Exterior vents closed, even bathroom when away from trailer. Open bathroom vent when showering or when using toilet. Reduce sunlight thru the windows. Draping a toel or placing cardboard over the windows will really help. If you have ceiling vents without a fan use a "vent pillow" to block sun and help insulate. Don't turn the thermostate down below the desired temperature. It won't cool any faster and will likely result in frozen coils. Leave the fan run constantly on high. If you have "problem rooms" set up a floor fan or small fan to help circulate air.

The most important thing to do is go have fun. Enjoy your trip!

[larrygiordano]

thanks-that was my worry that I was going to freeze the coils while we were at the parks. I'm also hoping our site is shaded to help with the sun.

[sourdough]

I always use a site in full sun because I don't like all the debris from the trees getting on the truck, trailer and bbq central.

Most of the things to do have been said. Be SURE you cover those windows in direct afternoon sun. Depending on several factors you may really want that shady spot because there are times you can feel the heat just radiating through the walls of our trailer. I use Reflectix in those windows. I use a dark mesh cut from an auto windshield sun screen between the 2 layers of the bathroom skylight. One of the biggest things we have ever done for staying in FL was to use a dehumidifier 24 hours a day (only use the compressor driven type). It helps us and the A/Cs.

Another point is to never let the trailer get too warm and then make the A/Cs try to catch up, they won't until dark. Don't leave any window, vent etc. open because it only lets humidity in which negatively affects your A/Cs and you personally. Put a fan in the coolest part of the RV and direct that air into the warmer. Ours is always cooler in the bedroom and we just place a fan on top of the chest of drawers and point it to the living area. DON'T cook inside if you can avoid it. I try to cook outside all the time. If that is impossible we try to use the microwave and the induction cooktops we have with us. We have a ceiling fan that we run on a hot day. If you don't have one just place an additional fan. Run the A/C on auto and at a reasonable temp. There is no benefit to set the thermostat at 60 when it will never get below the low 70s or ??? depending on trailer.

Lots of little tricks to make things perfectly fine. Most important thing? Have fun and enjoy.

[Hblick48]

This really helps:

https://rvairflow.com/

I didn't buy one because I thought they were over priced. I did however use foam insulation and foil tape to simulate what their device does. Makes a HUGE difference both in a/C airflow, plus it's much quiteter now.

Edit: Also, remove every other fin in ceiling vents (to allow more air to pass). Also, cut down ceiling vents where they protrude into the duct. Use foil tape to seal up any potential leak points and cover where the vents protruded into the duct.

[wiredgeorge]

First, you might want to put together a signature with year, make and model of your camper and same for your tow vehicle. Makes answers have more context to your questions.

If you have 30A service, couple of tips as I have learned how to keep our camper passably cool in South Texas triple digit temps in direct sunlight. Another tip... if you leave the camper, turn off the city water while you are gone. Too many folks don't do this and find out they have a leak that ruins the floor of their camper when they return.

OK... A/C. If you have 30A service, that means only one air conditioner. That guy will need some help in Florida. As has been suggested, cover your widows. Those things can fry an egg during the summer. I have installed super dark window film in our camper. Next, the ductwork probably needs sealed with HVAC tape. All the outlets wer e probably poorly taped at the factory and air is escaping into the void above your ceiling and roof. I use an RVairflow.com gizmo that you install in the lower A/C assembly from the inside. It insures that air doesn't cross from the intake to exhaust and forces air into your ductwork. At a minimum, take off the lower grate and make sure the inside is sealed with HVAC tape. It matters a lot. Last, I carry a 14K BTU portable A/C that I exhaust out the window. I run an extension cord to the 15/20A outlet on the pedestal and have a big fan blowing behind it.

We were out last week in triple digits with no shade. Camper stayed in the 76-78F during the hottest part of the day. I also swapped out the old roof top A/C (my Cougar is a 2002 model) which was a 13.5K BTU Dometic for a Dometic 15K BTU unit. Honestly, that didn't make that big a difference as I thought it would but I did it when a couple years ago when a Dometic Brisk II 15K BTU was under $500. They are more than double that now.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by larrygiordano

thanks-that was my worry that I was going to freeze the coils while we were at the parks. I'm also hoping our site is shaded to help with the sun.

Never camped there but we've been to the Hoopdy-de-doo Review several times. IIRC from what I saw of the cg it was pretty well shaded.

[dutchmensport]

Another trick you can do to cool the camper down quicker after traveling all day is to run the air conditioner(s), but do not open the slides. Doing it this way reduces the amount of space to cool. Once an area gets cooled down, then open the first slide and wait for the temperature to equalize again and cool down. Then open the next slide, and so on.

Another tip, make sure the air conditioner is on and running in the morning, even if the camper is cool inside. Campers heat up, and heat up fast. And once they get heated up, it's almost near impossible to get them cooled. But, if the air conditioner is on in the morning, they will do a pretty good job of keeping up. Once outside temperatures get into the 90's or above, it's a battle to keep things cooled. So, the earlier in the day that air conditioner is on, is that much easier to keep it cooler longer, before things heat up and it's impossible to cool down.

Good luck!

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

Another trick you can do to cool the camper down quicker after traveling all day is to run the air conditioner(s), but do not open the slides. Doing it this way reduces the amount of space to cool. Once an area gets cooled down, then open the first slide and wait for the temperature to equalize again and cool down. Then open the next slide, and so on.

Another tip, make sure the air conditioner is on and running in the morning, even if the camper is cool inside. Campers heat up, and heat up fast. And once they get heated up, it's almost near impossible to get them cooled. But, if the air conditioner is on in the morning, they will do a pretty good job of keeping up. Once outside temperatures get into the 90's or above, it's a battle to keep things cooled. So, the earlier in the day that air conditioner is on, is that much easier to keep it cooler longer, before things heat up and it's impossible to cool down.

Good luck!

Good point about the slides in particular. I have installed 110V outlet in my slide which had previously been in the dinette bench and was kind of surprised they couldn't stuff a bit more fiberglass spun insulation in there. I imagine slide outs are about the least insulated part of a camper other than the windows.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

Another trick you can do to cool the camper down quicker after traveling all day is to run the air conditioner(s), but do not open the slides. Doing it this way reduces the amount of space to cool. Once an area gets cooled down, then open the first slide and wait for the temperature to equalize again and cool down. Then open the next slide, and so on.

Another tip, make sure the air conditioner is on and running in the morning, even if the camper is cool inside. Campers heat up, and heat up fast. And once they get heated up, it's almost near impossible to get them cooled. But, if the air conditioner is on in the morning, they will do a pretty good job of keeping up. Once outside temperatures get into the 90's or above, it's a battle to keep things cooled. So, the earlier in the day that air conditioner is on, is that much easier to keep it cooler longer, before things heat up and it's impossible to cool down.

Good luck!

Good points. The a/C cools down a space not by blowing cold air but by transferring the heat from the inside air to the outside air. During this process the humidity is removed. It's much easier to maintain the temperature and humidity than to start off with a very hot and humid space. What some people don't understand is that in order to reduce the air temperature you must also pull the heat and moisture from ALL THE OBJECTS in the room. So everything from the carpet to the couches must have the heat and humidity must be removed.

[pawpaw]

The wife can't take the heat and likes it cold in the camper. Glad we bought a new Cougar and made sure it had the front AC option. Really kept us cool this past week with the 90 plus days and only dropping into the high 70's at night. And this was considered a cool front in SE Louisiana!! 30' camper with a 13.5 and a 15 BTU Coleman in the living area kept it sometimes too cold for me. I had to go and sit under the awning in the shade and drink cold beer to cool myself off!! Always keep window shades down to block sunlight and minimize opening and closing doors if possible. Also use fans...they can help out a lot.

[roadglide]

I would go with the air flow system 10 minute install. It’s not over priced Considering the time and effort trying the diy and getting much less performance . I have two in my RV wile in 110° Arkansas weather during July. I stayed comfortable with the proven 40% increase CFI .

[larrygiordano]

Thanks for all the info. Thats the kind of stuff they dont give you in the manual.

[Roper46]

I am currently in my 5er just outside of Savannah Ga. I have two small floor fans to circulate the air and they make a BIG difference with the heat and the humidity.

Just had a thunderstorm go thru and my EMS saved the day. With all the thunder and lightning near by it shut everything down for a couple minutes. The EMS is expensive, but in a situation like this you can be sure it will protect your unit.

[hlh1]

We were at the OBX a couple of weeks ago and had the AC freeze up. After I thawed it, it didn't freeze up anymore. Got home and found the freeze sensor nicely wrapped in it's yellow tag with instructions for installation. They never properly installed the freeze sensor... I'll install it when my knee recovers from surgery.

[jxnbbl]

We've been to FW at WDW twice over the past 2 years. The last time for 11 days and ran/walked almost every loop. Very few are "open sun" (if you haven't been there).

On the AC - I just installed an airflow system as we were with the grandchildren and using the bunk room...just to help with the distribution of the cool air and to cut down the noise from the main AC blasting.

We additionally went out during the trip and bought those "foam pillows" as we have 4 vents....I did find the it helped insulating.

Sites - Before we went I used google maps as well as some "disney tip sites" to scope out various campsites for location, ease of access etc. We were there for a VERY busy period and they gave us a site that was impossible to get into. I most likely could have backed into the site...but would have to use the site across from us and their cars/carts filled the driveway as they were away. After many attempts and others helping us (we never need help doing this)...everyone agreed it was next to impossible. I drove back to 'checkin' and they gave me a list of sites that I could have. Very accommodating but the up front "viewing" of sites I knew 2 on the list would be easy. So if your not familiar with the place and have a longer trailer. I'd recommend doing some research.

[Mikelff]

I am in the process of installing removable solar screens on the outside of all my windows. Got this off the Montana forum. Any type of window solar block, whether it’s Reflectix or whatever, should go on the OUTSIDE of your windows. Most RV’s have dark tinted windows but by adding Reflectix to the inside of your windows “double” heats your window glass. Sun going in, then reflected back out again. If it gets hot enough it can crack or shatter your glass. Thats an expensive fix. If you put it on the outside you stop the sun from ever entering through your window glass. The solar screens block 90% of the sun, and uv rays. All that heat stays outside. I can still see through my windows, though its not like looking through clear glass. They are held on with velcro on the glass and on the screen frame. Putting them up and taking them down only takes a few minutes. If you want to get the velcro off the windows, a adhesive remover takes them off just fine without damage to the windows. A regular screen frame on top and bottom keeps the screen flat and secured. I did my 41 foot 5er for less than $150. This plus the other suggestions should keep you nice and cool. Initial cool down with the slides in, then open one at a time as the temps adjust really works for me when setting up.

[CaptnJohn]

Just back from south Florida. Triple digits some days. Kept 41’ 5er at 74-76. 1st keep blinds down always. If you have the thin blinds they will need help. Don’t let the trailer get warm, stay in front of the hottest part of the day. If the camper is cool in the morning make it cold to help with the coming heat. I set both thermostats at 72 and forget them. On monthly plan I pay electric and never over $140. I thought about installing a 3rd AC but found it not needed.