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Old 05-27-2022, 04:39 PM   #1
Robear
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Thinking about a 2021 Tundra purchase

I currently have a 2000 Silverado 3/4 with the 5.3 engine, towing a 2013 Cougar 25 RET travel trailer.
I’m thinking about buying a 2021 Tundra as a replacement for the Chevy.
Am I crazy or wise? I need something more reliable.
Thanks for your input. Any Tundra owners out there?
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Old 05-27-2022, 04:43 PM   #2
bsmith0404
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3/4 ton to 1/2 ton for towing….my vote is on the crazy side
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Old 05-27-2022, 05:06 PM   #3
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The Tundra is a great truck for hauling some lumber or mulch but it wouldn't be my choice for towing a heavy trailer.
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Old 05-27-2022, 05:45 PM   #4
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2000 Silverado 3/4 ton gas downgrade to Tundra?? NO!! 3/4 to 1/2 ton (marginal depending on trim) is backward for a person towing an RV.

A Tundra IS reliable. It has more resale value than any comparable Big 3 truck. They haven't yet determined how to make a good tow vehicle though.
That size trailer actually need a real HD truck - not a fluffed up 1/2 ton.

Little brother had a nice Tundra he used for a nice bumper pull. It's a "beast", can tow anything etc. Bought a lighter weight Forest River 5th wheel and that story changed pronto. Bought a HD Ford 6.7 King Ranch. Night and day difference he said.

The proposed vehicle change? No.
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Old 05-27-2022, 06:03 PM   #5
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Downgrade: Yes

But....wouldn't mind having a bit of discussion about this

That 25RET has a GVWR of 7200 lbs and under 30'
The Tundra has a minimum of 1600 lbs payload (based on 30 secs of Googling)

Trailer loaded to GVWR, tongue weight of 936 at 13%. 664 left for hitch, occupants, gear.

I was in this 1/2 ton boat - but had almost 4 more feet of trailer and 2K more of trailer GVWR. For me it was an easy upgrade to a 1-ton....although even with that load I managed to stay barely under GVWR and rGAWR on my 1/2 ton. The 25RETs length and weight seem to be a much more reasonable load for a 1/2 ton. Particularly if the Tundra is not blinged out and has more than 1600 lbs of payload.

Much ado is (rightfully) made when someone is towing a triple axle toy hauler with an F250, but if a guy can stay under payload cap, and hence his truck's GVWR, GAWRs and GCVWR - all determined by the truck manufacturer - why not?
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Old 05-27-2022, 06:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markcee View Post
Downgrade: Yes

But....wouldn't mind having a bit of discussion about this

That 25RET has a GVWR of 7200 lbs and under 30'
The Tundra has a minimum of 1600 lbs payload (based on 30 secs of Googling)

Trailer loaded to GVWR, tongue weight of 936 at 13%. 664 left for hitch, occupants, gear.

I was in this 1/2 ton boat - but had almost 4 more feet of trailer and 2K more of trailer GVWR. For me it was an easy upgrade to a 1-ton....although even with that load I managed to stay barely under GVWR and rGAWR on my 1/2 ton. The 25RETs length and weight seem to be a much more reasonable load for a 1/2 ton. Particularly if the Tundra is not blinged out and has more than 1600 lbs of payload.

Much ado is (rightfully) made when someone is towing a triple axle toy hauler with an F250, but if a guy can stay under payload cap, and hence his truck's GVWR, GAWRs and GCVWR - all determined by the truck manufacturer - why not?
The OP asked for opinions and was given opinions. NO ONE KNOWS THE PAYLOAD of the "PROPOSED THEORETICAL " TRUCK. You can "disscuss" it all you like if anyone feels like discussing it with you.
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Old 05-27-2022, 06:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
The OP asked for opinions and was given opinions. NO ONE KNOWS THE PAYLOAD of the "PROPOSED THEORETICAL " TRUCK. You can "disscuss" it all you like if anyone feels like discussing it with you.
You know......

Just forget it, you ain't worth it...although I'm sure you think you are.
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Old 05-27-2022, 09:03 PM   #8
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No discussion, just my opinion, keep the Chevy!
Also just my opinion, any rv 7k+lb GVWR - 25'+ long needs more than a 1/2 ton truck.
As already mentioned the Tundra is a great truck for the DYI guy hauling lumber or towing water craft or snow mobiles, just not rvs.
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Old 05-28-2022, 03:59 AM   #9
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My friend has a newer Tundra with the 5.7 L pulling an older 30’ Toy Hauler. He “downgraded” from an F250 because he needed something more suitable for his day to day work truck. He loves the Tundra, but hates that he lost his ability to just load up and go and now has to put careful thought into what he carries and where. He is also limited in his choice of future trailers.

I understand that your current truck is 22 years old and you NEED to change it up for a variety of very valid reasons. I just think that you would soon regret stepping down to the Tundra from the 3/4 ton. Currently there is a bubble of used vehicle prices (I recently traded in my F150 and they gave me more than I bought it for 3 years and 35,000 miles ago). So any used vehicle you buy today could very well have the value fall out from under you in the coming months, so you need to be prepared to hang on to whatever you buy.

All that being said, I would stick to the 3/4 ton market and look for as new of a truck as you can get for comparable money as the Tundra. We were truck shopping this spring and found 3/4 ton prices on 2020 and 2021 models were within $1,000 of new in many cases, so we just bought new (as much as it pained me to do so). If you can find a decent 3/4 ton for a good price, it won’t be a 2021, but you will maintain or maybe even improve your capabilities.
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Old 05-28-2022, 05:04 AM   #10
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Pretty much, what's been said is:

Will it work? Probably. It likely is just under the maximum weight limits, but there's no probably "reserve capacity" and if there is any reserve, it won't be enough to write home about.

Should it work? Not if your kids are growing, you expect an additional large pet, are considering a slightly larger trailer in your future (and with your buying habits, that means the next 22 years while you own this truck).....
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Old 05-28-2022, 05:13 AM   #11
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Believe it or not, this is NOT the Toyota Fan Club Forum. What folks have been saying; yes you may need a new truck and NO the Toyota isn't the best for towing the camper you own. With interest rates rising and the shortage of new trucks (and all new vehicles) and prices through the roof, hang in there until things stabilize and prices come back to reality.
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:40 AM   #12
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Thank you for your input. I’ll probably keep the Chevy. I agree that it’s crazy to go lighter and have to worry about payload each trip. I carry a generator and electric bikes and other stuff. The truck just turned over 100k miles on a trip this month from socal to South Dakota. Only used 1 quart of oil. Perhaps there will be a surplus of used nearly new trucks due to the high cost of fuel. Maybe pickup a bargain?
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:43 AM   #13
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The cost to rebuild/replace engine and transmission would be way less than buying new and you could probably throw in a new paint job.
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
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The cost to rebuild/replace engine and transmission would be way less than buying new and you could probably throw in a new paint job.
Agree, in fact I just had the tranny rebuilt last year. The only thing right now that’s concerning is the steering seems a bit sloppy.
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:54 AM   #15
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Easy to diagnose and not difficult to correct.
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Old 05-28-2022, 10:56 AM   #16
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Chevy trucks are like elbows, everyone has a couple. Parts are everywhere.
A Chevy Performance Parts 383 stroker and a paint job. You're good for another 100,000 miles.
https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc...s/sp383-deluxe
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Old 05-28-2022, 03:42 PM   #17
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The steering starts to feel loose on those older chevys because of the steering box. You can have a grease zerk installed on one and it’ll take away a lot of the play. Also check your idler arm and tie rod ends. You can go through the entire steering system for around $500. 100k miles isn’t anything on these newer (I know yours is 23 years old) trucks. I had a 2003 with the 6.0 that had over 150k, still ran strong and didn’t use any oil. The oil consumption you’re experiencing now is most likely the valve stem seals. They get hard when the vehicle sits, which I’m guessing yours did a lot of since you’re averaging just over 4k miles per year. Get the top end rebuilt.
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Old 05-28-2022, 04:40 PM   #18
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^ I'm thinking that 1983? 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban I should not have sold had an adjustment on the steering box with a lock nut. Seems I snugged it down once. Long time ago.
That 6.0 is one of Chevy's best.
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Old 05-28-2022, 04:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
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^ I'm thinking that 1983? 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban I should not have sold had an adjustment on the steering box with a lock nut. Seems I snugged it down once. Long time ago.
That 6.0 is one of Chevy's best.
The old ones had an adjustment on them. I messed with it on my 85 K5 as well, don’t really know how much you gained from it. I have t seen the same adjustment on the newer ones, then again, you can’t see the newer ones. I know my dad had the grease zerk added to his 06 and keeping it greased has helped. He has 120k on it now, steering is still pretty tight for the year and miles, all original steering parts still.
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Old 05-28-2022, 04:56 PM   #20
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^ I'm thinking that 1983? 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban I should not have sold had an adjustment on the steering box with a lock nut. Seems I snugged it down once. Long time ago.
That 6.0 is one of Chevy's best.
On a lot of the old reciprocating ball steering boxes there was an end play bearing adjustment. Break loose the lockout, then crank in the shaft with an allen hex then tighten the locknut. I have no idea if the OP's truck is equipped that way or not.
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