Internabond or ?

[Socaldave]

Doing some maintenance on my roof and noticed some slight tears where the roof membrane laps over the side. What's the best fix in this situation?

[JRTJH]

Those don't look like "tears or cuts in the TPO membrane"...

Rather, the lower one, next to the aluminum molding is caused by the butyl putty tape (or clay putty tape) used at the factory. It's laid in place on the back of the aluminum molding and then, as the molding is screwed to the trailer sidewall, the putty tape and TPO membrane "seal together". What you see there is the cracks from the putty tape separating, probably from road vibrations". You can clean off the excess above the cracks and, if it appears that the putty tape under/behind the aluminum is intact, just run a bead of DICOR non self leveling sealant along the top edge (where you removed the cracked sealant putty).

The top part looks like, for some reason, someone put a bead of sealant along the corner of the TPO membrane, when it bends from horizontal to vertical. The TPO membrane under that sealant should be intact with no cuts or damage. You can use a plastic putty knife to remove the questionable sealant bead along that edge to verify the TPO is not damaged. I'd suspect that you'll find it's fine under the sealant and that only the sealant is cracked, again, probably from road vibrations and exposure to the sun. Once sealant dries from the sun, it becomes rigid and can't flex when the trailer is towed, that's the primary cause of cracks in sealant like in your photo.

I'd say just remove the sealant along the cracks, verify what's behind the aluminum molding is intact and undamaged, and reseal with a new bead of DICOR non-self leveling sealant.

The aluminum molding should have a vinyl screw cover insert that slips into a track along the molding. If you remove that vinyl screw cover, you'll see the screws that hold the molding to the trailer. Make sure they are tight and not leaking. Any loose screws should be removed for inspection, don't just retighten them. Inspect all loose screws for rust or evidence of water sitting on the screw threads. If you see any, put a dab of sealant in the screwhole to fill it, reinstall the screw. The sealant will then seal the hole to prevent water from getting into the trailer via the loose screw.

[flybouy]

I had a very similar tear from a tree limb. I cleaned it with the Eternabong spray cleaner. Also dug out the sealent on the drip tail. Applied Etrnabond tape about a 1/8" above the drip rail and covered to about 2" over the cut on bothe ends. Rolled it real good with a hand roller then sealed the perimeter with no sag. That was about 8 years ago and still holding without issue.

[Socaldave]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Those don't look like "tears or cuts in the TPO membrane"...

Rather, the lower one, next to the aluminum molding is caused by the butyl putty tape (or clay putty tape) used at the factory. It's laid in place on the back of the aluminum molding and then, as the molding is screwed to the trailer sidewall, the putty tape and TPO membrane "seal together". What you see there is the cracks from the putty tape separating, probably from road vibrations". You can clean off the excess above the cracks and, if it appears that the putty tape under/behind the aluminum is intact, just run a bead of DICOR non self leveling sealant along the top edge (where you removed the cracked sealant putty).

The top part looks like, for some reason, someone put a bead of sealant along the corner of the TPO membrane, when it bends from horizontal to vertical. The TPO membrane under that sealant should be intact with no cuts or damage. You can use a plastic putty knife to remove the questionable sealant bead along that edge to verify the TPO is not damaged. I'd suspect that you'll find it's fine under the sealant and that only the sealant is cracked, again, probably from road vibrations and exposure to the sun. Once sealant dries from the sun, it becomes rigid and can't flex when the trailer is towed, that's the primary cause of cracks in sealant like in your photo.

I'd say just remove the sealant along the cracks, verify what's behind the aluminum molding is intact and undamaged, and reseal with a new bead of DICOR non-self leveling sealant.

The aluminum molding should have a vinyl screw cover insert that slips into a track along the molding. If you remove that vinyl screw cover, you'll see the screws that hold the molding to the trailer. Make sure they are tight and not leaking. Any loose screws should be removed for inspection, don't just retighten them. Inspect all loose screws for rust or evidence of water sitting on the screw threads. If you see any, put a dab of sealant in the screwhole to fill it, reinstall the screw. The sealant will then seal the hole to prevent water from getting into the trailer via the loose screw.

It may look deceiving in the pic but that is a tear in the TPO at the top of the pic. Probably about 2" long. There are about 3 or 4 of then on the left side of the TT.

[chuckster57]

The only issue with using eternabond on the edges is sealing the edges of the tape. This repair might be better with a bead of Dicor, covering the tear.

[JRTJH]

I agree with Chuck. If that is a tear, and I have no reason to doubt what you said, I'd be reluctant to put Eternabond tape over that area. It will stick well to the horizontal part of the TPO membrane, but making the curve to vertical, there's not a lot of vertical surface to adhere to. You may be better off, as Chuck suggested, running a thick bead of DICOR non-leveling sealant and tooling it to cover the split. If you really want to use Eternabond, I'd recommend removing the entire aluminum molding, applying the tape so it will adhere UNDER the aluminum molding, around the curve and onto the horizontal surfact of the TPO. That way, you'll have the aluminum molding, its butyl putty and the screws to help keep the "short vertical surface more secure" as well as having more tape down the side of the TPO.

Just be cautious about using Eternabond on corners with short surfaces to bond to.....

[NH_Bulldog]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I cleaned it with the Eternabong spray cleaner.

Freudian slip?

[peanut]

I have been taken to task previously, on this forum, for my enthusiastic support of Eternabond. Despite more than one innuendo or aspersion cast in my direction, I still heartily recommend it. That is a perfect use for Eternabond. You can always run a bead of Dicor around the edge of any application if it makes you feel better. I did on some of my applications (when applied over 5 years ago) but none have failed yet - - edged/sealed with Dicor or not.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

Freudian slip?

I think my spell checker has been smoking something!

[Socaldave]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I think my spell checker has been smoking something!

Duh..........

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by peanut

I have been taken to task previously, on this forum, for my enthusiastic support of Eternabond. Despite more than one innuendo or aspersion cast in my direction, I still heartily recommend it. That is a perfect use for Eternabond. You can always run a bead of Dicor around the edge of any application if it makes you feel better. I did on some of my applications (when applied over 5 years ago) but none have failed yet - - edged/sealed with Dicor or not.

And I have probably been one of those. In this instance the edge of the eternabond will be right at the molding. You have had success, but I have seen numerous failures in applications like this. Flat surface maybe, edge curve, seen too many failures for my liking. Based on over 10 years of inspecting and repairing eternabond patches.

In this instance, a good bead of Dicor will adhere nicely and I’m betting it will last a long time. I have seen way too many patches curl and peel back.

[Socaldave]

Thanks all for confirming my initial thoughts, Dico it is...