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Old 09-29-2019, 12:37 PM   #21
travelin texans
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyphil View Post
I just read my last reply.

My typing stinks. Sounds like I need some writing lessons.
And, English is my first and only language.
Definitely turn on the spell check feature!!!!
That last post was a bit difficult to read.
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Old 09-29-2019, 10:47 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyphil View Post
I don't know what the actual loaded weight was.
I just threw those numbers out there.
A scale would help.
It's very unusual to see specs on a 2011 Keystone trailer with original equipment 16" wheels and tires with far more than needed load capacity. According to the trailer's specs it has 5200# certified axles. Keystone hardly ever exceed the axles load capacity with that much load capacity reserves.

Those Gladiators being LRF should last a long time on that trailer provided they are not road damaged.

The valve stems and wheels need to be rated for the maximum PSI rating of the tires (95 PSI).

I think it's fair to note that one of the ST tire brands that takes a beating around the net (TowMax) lasted that long. It supports my long standing theory that sufficient load capacity reserves is sometimes all a tire needs for it to compete with other like sized tire brands.
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:26 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
I'm afraid there will no formula that will convince me of a " livetime of 6 to 10 years" on ANY ST tire. YMMV
In Europe where I live ( the Netherlands) LT tires ( called C(omercial)-tires) are used on traveltrailers, and nowadays with comfortable reserve.
Generally they last at least 6 years, and research here came to after 7 years failure ratio larger,

Michelin and other tiremakers write to let your tires be checked by a professional , every year after 6 years of use, and preventively change them after 10 years of use. Dutch VACO ( respected institute) writes the same, and dont even give that 10 years, and writes that 2 years of proffessional storing before use can be sold as new tire. So sometimes even only after 12 years after DOT date , renewing of tires.
I mean to have found the system that calculates pressure that high , with maximum reserve, but still no bumping, so livetime is as long as possible.

For ST I substract 6 loadindex steps to give the tire a deflection, so heatproduction, as if it was calculated for 160kmph/99mph, and first add 11.1 % to the weighed load or GAWR( to make real weight 90% average of weight the pressure is calculated for), before putting it in my determined extra safe formula, based on the official one ( I once got hold of and went running with)and an article of a American IR J.C. Daws , and so the pressure part of durability of tire is covered.

But also protection for UV light and Ozon, are factors, and alignment must be right so not one side of tire wears off. And you can always have a puncture.

In my former post I proved for 99% that topicstarters new tires are calculated in maxload realy for N speedrated 87mph , so only have to substract 2 LI steps.

The Goodyear Endurance , to wich I compared them, is maxspeed 87mph, but yust as the old ST calculated for 65mph in its maxload ( a bit higher to my discovered system 110kmph/?mph.)

And that is to my opinion and conclusions the reason why the old ST had such high failure-rate, and 3 to 4 years renewing became normal.
Yust a bit more speed or load or a bit to low pressure, or combination of that all , and the tire overheats.

To be able to use the pressure behind AT and not higher( not allowed anymore, in earlyer days was allowed) for the ST general you even need about 35% reserve to the GAWR.
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Old 09-30-2019, 04:37 AM   #24
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I often see these posts and the ones the follow about repairing the trailer, but I don't often see if insurance covers this type of expense or not. So for those that have had the unfortunate event happen, did you attempt to claim under your insurance, or was it just better (cost-wise) to take care of the repair yourself?
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Old 09-30-2019, 04:49 AM   #25
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'ply' rating is so... dated:-)


today it is load rating. just saying.
'These days, tire ply rating is more commonly expressed as “load range.”'


bottom line is about every 5 years get new tires.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:05 AM   #26
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Tony, many of us on this forum (Sourdough and myself for sure) have had our friendly agent take care of the repairs. Ours was the Geico agent a few years ago and he wrote the check on the spot for about $9K. I'm sure others will chime in.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:26 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Roscommon48 View Post
'ply' rating is so... dated:-)


today it is load rating. just saying.
'These days, tire ply rating is more commonly expressed as “load range.”'


bottom line is about every 5 years get new tires.
In Europe plyrating is the commonly used system still.
And picture of label that jerseyphill gave also only gives 12 plyrated.
12 plyrated is same as F-load/LRF and is calculated in maxload for 95 psi standard, though in Europe there are exeptions.

my bottom line is 7 to 8 years replacement to be on the safe side, and taking good care of the tire, the way I wrote already.

Also better for the invironment , old tires are hard to recicle.

jerseyphill, did I understand right, that your failed tires where the original from the TT and so 8 years under it before the blew.
And did you only check on crackes, or also inspected the Treath?
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:34 AM   #28
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I'm afraid there will no formula that will convince me of a " livetime of 6 to 10 years" on ANY ST tire. YMMV
If you switch to 19.5 commercial grade tires on new 8 or 10 stud hubs 6 to 7 years is the warranty.
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:00 AM   #29
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If you switch to 19.5 commercial grade tires on new 8 or 10 stud hubs 6 to 7 years is the warranty.
I suspect you have never stood by your RV looking at $9K in damage as a result of two blowouts on two of the infamous China-bombs. And yes, they were less than 2 years old. We run Goodyear 614's on the Suites and they also will be replaced at five years. It gives me a 'warm-all-over' feeling.
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:47 AM   #30
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I suspect you have never stood by your RV looking at $9K in damage as a result of two blowouts on two of the infamous China-bombs. And yes, they were less than 2 years old. We run Goodyear 614's on the Suites and they also will be replaced at five years. It gives me a 'warm-all-over' feeling.
Thankfully I have not had that experience, and thankfully my Montana came with G rated Goodyear 614's. I have considered going to 8k axles, disc brakes, BOAR 195 wheels with Continental HS3 maybe even H rated but for now am taking the cheraper route of getting our weight down. So far weight reduction is working and will reweigh tomorrow.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:23 PM   #31
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Son, you would never regret the disk brake conversion!
By the way, the blowouts were on our Raptor.
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:18 PM   #32
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Ironically, buddy just sent me this today. 4 yr old tires.

I’d also been dreaming of 8k axles, disc brakes and H tires.

And... have been frustrated with “load range” that refers to ply rating, which means almost nothing as 12 ply doesn’t mean 12 plys, rather 2 plys equivalent to 12 plys in strength.

Load index, just figuring that out and I worked in a tire store 25 yrs ago!
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Old 10-02-2019, 02:57 AM   #33
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To set the record straight, here's the specs on the 2011 Cougar 318SAB from the Keystone website:
Empty weight: 9495
Cargo weight: 2485
Pin weight (empty): 1580

That would give a GVW of 11980

With these "facts", to state that the trailer was "probably at 13 to 14 thousand lbs" would mean that the trailer was significantly overloaded as well as being supported on "9 year old OEM tires"...

At this point, maybe it's all speculation, but I'd suggest a "true and accurate weight" before going much further. Why? Even with the strongest tires available, all you're doing, if you are exceeding the trailer GVW by as much as 2000 pounds, is moving the weakest link from the tires to another structural component.

The issue, IMHO, is to keep the trailer within its "design criteria and design limitations" not to "make things OK by assuring the new tires won't blow if the trailer is significantly overloaded beyond the GVW".....

If your trailer is "loaded to 13 or 14 thousand lbs" with a GVW of 11980, you're going to have troubles again, possibly in an area that causes significantly more damage than "just a blown tire and wheelwell damage". You could possibly break a pinbox, lose an axle at towing speed, have the trailer "break in the middle" from being overloaded, or heaven knows what.... I'd urge a CAT scale weight before going any further, hopefully your estimate of 13 or 14 thousand lbs is "way wrong".....

You have definitely "solved your tire problems" with such heavy duty tires, but what have you done for the "real problem of being overloaded" ???
AFTER I READ THIS, I decided to take a close look at what I was carrying. The MOST I was carrying was about 2000 lbs. That includes everything, fresh water, stuff in pickup bed, stuff in storage areas, etc., so if my empty weight is about 9500 lbs, I was about 11,500, not 13 or 14 thousand.
Sorry about throwing that in to panic people!!
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Old 10-02-2019, 03:11 AM   #34
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I couldn't fathom carrying 2000 lbs with me (in a non toy hauler)for a trip. Not that there's anything wrong with it.
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:05 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by jerseyphil View Post
AFTER I READ THIS, I decided to take a close look at what I was carrying. The MOST I was carrying was about 2000 lbs. That includes everything, fresh water, stuff in pickup bed, stuff in storage areas, etc., so if my empty weight is about 9500 lbs, I was about 11,500, not 13 or 14 thousand.
Sorry about throwing that in to panic people!!
I'd still recommend a "true and accurate" weight by visiting a CAT scale and get some "objective weights" rather than relying on ""a close look at what I was carrying" (which is still a 'best guess' kind of weight).

The only way you'll know for sure what your trailer, truck and rig weigh, and what weight is actually on the tires and king pin is to tow it across an accurate scale.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:20 AM   #36
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The simple solution to address the issue of massive damage from tire blowouts is for the factory to install steel or heavy gauge aluminum wheel wells which would protect the body, the propane lines and electrical wiring. It's beyond ridiculous that DOT and NHSTA allow this crap to roll down the road as is.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:28 AM   #37
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I second that emotion. We need another Ralph Nader.
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Old 10-03-2019, 01:31 PM   #38
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I second that emotion. We need another Ralph Nader.
Agreed but after the success he had with the Corvair he may just get all RVs pulled off the road and then where would we be?
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Old 10-03-2019, 01:51 PM   #39
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I must have the biggest horseshoe you know where. I replaced my original tires last spring, so 8 years and the only issue I had was the valves leaked badly year 1.

They needed replacing this year, but yeah. 8 years on towkings.

Bumped up to load range E and 75mph rating. so I should be good for 10 yrs this time (kidding).
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Old 10-03-2019, 01:57 PM   #40
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8 years on towkings.
Miracles do happen!
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