Lippert Slideout Adjustment

[sourdough]

Good luck on the mod. There are several ways to skin this cat and sounds like you have a good plan. Let us know how it goes when it is completed. A thought on the uhmw; at 1/16" thick the uhmw is going to be pretty thin. Although tough it will flex and the thinner the more it will flex. I used 12" wide strips of 1/8" (which didn't put the slide out of spec) but I'm thinking just going a bit wider than the rollers might be the best width so the edges of the uhmw don't curl down.

[catmama6]

We had a 2016 Cougar. Slide problems about 3 years in. When we took to the dealer, it did need repair(a part inside had broken & needed replacement) but what i did learn is all of the dirt, pebbles, dog hair etc. slides into the slide area & gums up the works. I now sweep, dry sweep & mop the area that the carpet slide slides over so i am not pushing all of this into the bottom of the slide(inside) hope this helps.
Happy Camping,
CatMama

[Mikelff]

Originally Posted by bobnelms

Hi all,

I have a 2016 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel, 37 feet, 3 slide-outs. The kitchen and main slide-outs are rubbing terribly along the floor when extending or retracting. As I'm retired and have taken a big hit in the stock market in the recent months (along with many others I'm sure), I'm trying to save money and do things myself that I'd normally send to the shop.

Has anyone ever tried adjusting these things on their own. I'm pretty sure I'm talking about a VERTICAL adjustment (raising the whole slideout a bit).

Thanks, ahead of time, for your wisdom and experience.

Here is a possible solution:
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=64

[bobnelms]

Thank you for this, Mike. I've read it several times. My only "wonder" is why you didn't extend the UHMW sheet beyond the wearbar so that you didn't have to worry about the "ramp." Otherwise, it all made a lot of sense.

Thanks so much for sharing it.

[bobnelms]

Hi Catmama,

I wonder if you have cats? haha

Thanks for sharing this. It makes a lot of sense.

[Mikelff]

Originally Posted by bobnelms

Thank you for this, Mike. I've read it several times. My only "wonder" is why you didn't extend the UHMW sheet beyond the wearbar so that you didn't have to worry about the "ramp." Otherwise, it all made a lot of sense.

Thanks so much for sharing it.

Bob, since this “fix” was first posted, extending the UHMW beyond the wearbar is one way to go. No “ramp up” required. It is a bit more difficult and you will need to extend the slide almost fully extended to jack up the slide far enough to get the UHMW all the way up like you mentioned. You will want to measure how far up towards the front end of the slide you can secure the pieces with the screws. You will want 3-4 counter sunk screws for a good secure attachment at the front. Depending on how big your slide is, you can use as many “ski’s” as you think you need for support across the floor of your slide. My buddy went so far as to polish (NOT wax) his Skis with a plastic polish to help lessen the friction even further. They were quite shiny when he installed them. How much this helped I couldn’t tell you other than his slide goes in and out quite easily. I have not done my slide yet but plan on this project this fall. It is at least a two man job just because of the bulk of the project. Another thing to watch for is a watertight seal once the slide is closed. If not, and you travel in the rain, you might get water under the slide from the wheel well spraying that water under the slide. You don’t have the wear bar acting as a seal now that you have those ski’s raising your slide up there might be gaps. Perhaps letting the slide ramp up on the Ski’s might prevent the water issue? Something to consider. Hope this helps.

[bustersdaddy]

Sadly most of these slides, slide on a plastic block that is to usually covered with grit. For what you pay for these units they should put rollers on them.

[bobnelms]

Thanks Mike. I hear you and understand. I'll be installing another wiper seal across my slideout width to help keep out rain, debris, MICE, and insects. We were in the Florida Keys last winter and were inundated with ants. Now, whenever I park for more than a few days, I spray ant poison around all possible entrance locations (including all the jacks, etc) which did the trick in FL.

As for this repair that I'll be doing, I'll document it as best as I can (like you did) and then share results, good or bad.

[bobnelms]

Well, I promised an update on my quest to install rollers on my RV slideout, and here is my update. It won't work -- at least not on my Keystone Cougar!



If you look at the photo of the rollers, they "stick out" or extend beyond the face of the coach-floor, and would interfere with retracting the slide (which I've tried to show in my sketch. IT SEEMS THE PHOTO OF THE ROLLERS OUGHT TO BE ROTATED 90 DEG CLOCKWISE.

The rollers "stick out" 1 1/8 inches, which would mean that when I retracted the slide, there'd be a 1 1/8 inch gap at the seals around the slide -- obviously unacceptable.

So I'm out of options. I MIGHT try to install a new wear bar IN KIND (exactly the same design as what's already in there.

BTW, after going through all of this, I am enamored and impressed by Keystone's design of the wear-bar/seal. I think the geometric design is BRILLIANT. But I think it's STRENGTH is the pits.

Although it might be hard to visualize, I've also showed the wear-bar in the final photo in the installed position and condition. THIS PHOTO OUGHT TO BE ROTATED 180 DEG. When the kitchen slide is retracted, the wear-bar can be seen at the base of the floor. Don't mind the dirt, please -- I know it's disgusting. The wear-bar and the outer seal are integral with one another -- an amazing design as I said.

[bobnelms]

I wish I knew how to post photo in the right direction!!