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Old 05-25-2022, 05:43 AM   #1
hitchikerman
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Talking bearing maintenance

Well it's time to do a bearing repack and was wondering if there's good tool to use to squirt grease through the bearing cage
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Old 05-25-2022, 06:03 AM   #2
Hblick48
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Get a bearing packing tool at any auto parts store.
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Old 05-25-2022, 06:22 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitchikerman View Post
Well it's time to do a bearing repack and was wondering if there's good tool to use to squirt grease through the bearing cage
The ABSOLUTE worst thing you could do to "squirt grease" into the hub (and through the bearing cage) is with the EZ Lube system zerk fitting on the center of the hub... That's a great way to blow out the hub rear seal...

So if that is your plan, I'd urge to change plans.

If you're looking for a "bearing packer" there are several available at most parts stores, online or even at Harbor Freight. Most are either mechanical or pneumatic for use with a grease gun. Just put the bearing in the tray, close the top and pump grease into the bearing until it comes out the "weep hole". Then remove the bearing and reinstall in the hub.

The alternative is the "Dad taught me" process of using your cupped palm filled with grease and "push the bearing into your palm, forcing grease into the bearing cage repeatedly, until the bearing is filled with grease. Time consuming for sure, but the result can be as thorough as the above bearing packer if you take your time and pay attention to what you're doing.
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Old 05-25-2022, 06:32 AM   #4
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I’ve had one like this for about 25 years. They work very well and are simple to use. I’ll admit I used it a lot when I worked as a mechanic for front wheel bearings on cars. I haven’t used it in years, I prefer the old grease in the palm method……I don’t know why, maybe it’s therapy for me.

https://www.truckid.com/gearwrench/h...BoCTtoQAvD_BwE
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Old 05-25-2022, 07:10 AM   #5
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^^^Exactyl what I use. I love seeing the new grease come squirting out the top and knowing the cavities are filled. Then I few splats of grease by hand for good measure.
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Old 05-25-2022, 07:16 AM   #6
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Here's what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-25-2022, 09:18 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bsmith0404 View Post
I’ve had one like this for about 25 years. They work very well and are simple to use. I’ll admit I used it a lot when I worked as a mechanic for front wheel bearings on cars. I haven’t used it in years, I prefer the old grease in the palm method……I don’t know why, maybe it’s therapy for me.

https://www.truckid.com/gearwrench/h...BoCTtoQAvD_BwE
I bought one of these from Orielly's and it worked great. When i replaced my seals and hubs last year, and checked/repacked the bearings at the same time, I had to make a list of stuff I would need since my TT is stored 25 mins from my house. Below is that list, in case it's useful. the entire thread is here in case the links don't work out:

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...light=bearings

Here is what i used to replace the seals and brakes:

- Red tacky grease
- Grease gun with flexible hose
- roll of shop towels (maybe 2)
- 4 new 2-lip rear seals(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMHIZ0Y...roduct_details)
- Seal puller (https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-p...ips-63039.html)
- Nev-R Adjust brakes (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLXNBT2...roduct_details)
- Channel Locks
- Flat head screwdriver
- Brake Cleaner
- Blue heat shrink connectors (14 - 16 gauge)
- Lighter or heat gun
- Rubber mallet
- 4-lb hammer
- jack (i have a 20-ton bottle jack); https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton...ack-66482.html
- jack stands
- 4-way (star) foldable lugnut wrench (https://www.harborfreight.com/14-inc...nch-95932.html)
- 150 lb torque wrench (my lugnuts are 115 ft-lbs)
- 11/13 socket; part of this set (https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...-pc-69560.html)
- extension bar for torque wrench
- wire cutters
- small wooden block (maybe 8" long, 4" wide, 1" deep for tapping seals / dust cover)
- throw away plastic bags for trash
- knee pads / kneeling pad
- bearing packer (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-H...a-568857223402)
- safety glasses
- disposable gloves

Hopefully that's it. My camper is 25 mins from my house, so I tried to remember everything.
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Old 05-25-2022, 09:27 AM   #8
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Only thing I see that isn’t on there is a 1 1/2” socket for the wheel bearing nut. You should torque the center nut to 50 lb ft to set the bearing, then back it off and finger tighten. You can also just tighten with a wrench/channel lock good and tight then back it of, which I used to do, but if you have the torque wrench, may as well do it by the book.
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Old 05-25-2022, 12:13 PM   #9
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Only thing I see that isn’t on there is a 1 1/2” socket for the wheel bearing nut. You should torque the center nut to 50 lb ft to set the bearing, then back it off and finger tighten. You can also just tight the with a wrench/channel lock hood and tight then back it of, which I used to do, but if you have the torque wrench, may as well do it by the book.
Exactly, but don't forget to hold the drum up with your hand after seating the bearing so it stays in position and doesn't slide back down causing a false feel when you finger tighten.
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Old 05-25-2022, 12:43 PM   #10
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In Millwright apprenticeship classes if I would have picked up a pair of channel locks the Instructor would have made me stand in the corner with a dunce cap on. All they are good for is to hold a hot piece of steel, according to him. Watch for little shards of steel falling off when tightening the bearing nut (while turning the hub by the way.)
One more tip from Mr. Anal: do not open the bearing box until you are ready to use it. In our shop all bearings that were mounted on a shaft had to be covered with a clean shop towel or paper towel.
Carry on...
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Old 05-25-2022, 12:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead View Post
In Millwright apprenticeship classes if I would have picked up a pair of channel locks the Instructor would have made me stand in the corner with a dunce cap on. All they are good for is to hold a hot piece of steel, according to him. Watch for little shards of steel falling off when tightening the bearing nut (while turning the hub by the way.)
One more tip from Mr. Anal: do not open the bearing box until you are ready to use it. In our shop all bearings that were mounted on a shaft had to be covered with a clean shop towel or paper towel.
Carry on...
When I was in school for machine tool, the instructor was the same way, they don’t know what they’re missing out on. It’s unbelievable how many shop towels I go through keeping things clean. Towels I throw away, other people would be grabbing to use. Don’t know iif I got that from building engines, working on avionics for the F-15, or a combination of both, but everything is always clean.
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Old 05-25-2022, 01:06 PM   #12
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I like using a grease needle. Lay the bearing on a clean surface. place the needle tip between the rollers and fill it up. Do that on each then smear some more on the outside for good measure.
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Old 05-25-2022, 03:44 PM   #13
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The simple inexpensive bearing packers are a nice tool.. I’ve thohgt od getting one for the last 50 years or so..

I still pack the old fashion way .. only takes a minute or so and gives me the extra look see at the rollers..

I also don’t clean the bearings in solvent.. never have.. I push all the old grease out with the new and that’s it..

Not really concerned about dust and such so I don’t bother covering anything.. these aren’t high tolerance precision bearings

I use a bit of crocus cloth th rough up the brake shoes and my air gun to clean all the dust and dirt out with.. I don’t use the Brake Clean or any other solvent sprays on my brakes..

Many prefer the spray and such. Works good . I have started wearing the black nitrile gloves when doing this type of work .. hands are old and too much exposure to toluene, MEK, and a whole host of other stuff from years ago.

Some folks are worried about the brake dust and such. They aren’t made of asbestos and I just hold my breath for a few seconds whilst blowing all the crap away

Red & Tacky is my preferred grease for suspension and axle bearings
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Old 05-25-2022, 03:59 PM   #14
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I use a blow gun that I modified about 50 years ago. Removed the tip of the blow gun and replaced it with 2' piece of aluminum tubing. Threaded the two ends and bent the tip end about 2" from the end at a 45° angle and screwed the original tip on it. I can stand aside and blow the dust out. Works great for other chores like blowing out dust from under the lawnmower and cleaning the shop floor.
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:54 AM   #15
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I still prefer packing them by hand. Doesn’t take that much longer and I can see if the grease is going where it should.

and yes, large crescent wrench, not channel-locks…
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:59 AM   #16
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You guys and your bias against channel locks. The spindle nut only goes to 50 ft lbs. that’s not very tight, then it gets backed off and finger tight. I would agree with you if it was actually getting torqued down. Need some people to show some love to this ingenious tool :-)
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Old 05-29-2022, 08:40 AM   #17
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Slip joint pliers, that's a plumber's tool isn't it?
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Old 05-29-2022, 09:26 AM   #18
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Old School

The best tool for that is the palm of your hand. I worked for the Timken Company for 36+ years.
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Old 05-29-2022, 02:19 PM   #19
mlk1950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The ABSOLUTE worst thing you could do to "squirt grease" into the hub (and through the bearing cage) is with the EZ Lube system zerk fitting on the center of the hub... That's a great way to blow out the hub rear seal...

So if that is your plan, I'd urge to change plans.

If you're looking for a "bearing packer" there are several available at most parts stores, online or even at Harbor Freight. Most are either mechanical or pneumatic for use with a grease gun. Just put the bearing in the tray, close the top and pump grease into the bearing until it comes out the "weep hole". Then remove the bearing and reinstall in the hub.

The alternative is the "Dad taught me" process of using your cupped palm filled with grease and "push the bearing into your palm, forcing grease into the bearing cage repeatedly, until the bearing is filled with grease. Time consuming for sure, but the result can be as thorough as the above bearing packer if you take your time and pay attention to what you're doing.
That's the way I do mine. The ole grease in the palm method.
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