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I’ve read a lot about the slide bars underneath the slide being the route cause and am looking into upgrading to some rollers maybe this summer when we get a stretch of non camping weekends.
I highly recomment putting rollers under these types of slides! Whatever engineer designed that much weight to "slide" on that %^%$! bar underneath should be..... I had to filter myself, sorry.
I used a stud finder to find how many aluminum supports were under our 12' slide (Croosroads SUnset Trails 291RK). each end and center so 3. I was planning to put 5 but no sense in adding where no support. It was not that bad. I found several YouTube videos. Cut the seal and jack room up about an inch and support. I used a battery powered recip saw (Sawzall) to cut that bar wide enough for roller bracket to sit flat on floor. Then I used 3" decking screws to attach rollers to floor. Lower the room onto rollers and test. Room slides out on rollers now. If I suspect the motor/gear box are starting to have a problem, I will do the upgrade. Our 2017 camper had hardly been used (4-5 times by 2 owners) when we found it on side of road during COVID. We have used it 11 times already in 1 1/2 years and plan to use it much more in the future. The rear of that bar I cut off already had just under 1/16" worn down even with little use. I also had to adjust the cables but now slides in/out much easier and less strain on motor/gearbox.
I had to pay a bit more for the rollers since when I was looking there was a shortage. But still @$25 was worth it.
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I used a battery powered recip saw (Sawzall) to cut that bar wide enough for roller bracket to sit flat on floor. Then I used 3" decking screws to attach rollers to floor.
What are the 3" screws going into? I assume there is a steel channel that spans the slide opening here?
Thanks,
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2013 Premier 22RBPR
2022 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Gasser
2019 Beta 500 RR-s (Pasta Rocket!)
2015 Honda CRF250L (Wifes)
Camping, home brewing, and dirt bikes!
Just as a follow up. New motor/gearbox showed up and got installed lastnight. Back in action. At first the left side cable clamp was hitting the motor as it came in. Slight tweak to the motor bracket(read as slightly bent it down) and all is well. I’ve read a lot about the slide bars underneath the slide being the route cause and am looking into upgrading to some rollers maybe this summer when we get a stretch of non camping weekends.
The first week I had my camper the slides worked good until I heard a bang up top . I found the turn buckles on the cables Hit together that caused a pop, the slide has never been same . They work and seal good but there is a lot of slack and no more adjustments on the cable probably stretched a cable .
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2018 1 ton 4x4 c.c standard bed GMC Denali
Anderson ultimate hitch
2015 311 Impact Fusion toy hauler
2018 Milwaukee 8 FLRTU roadglide glide ultra
2018 800 Z force spot BUGGY.
500 watts of solar enough power for boon docking.
Reminds me of my one BIL. I swear the only screws he owns are 3" drywall screws. He does have a greater variety of nails though, both 3" framing nails and 1 1/2" roofing nails.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
Thanks for sharing Danimal. I am definitely going to add rollers to ours sometime; just have to figure out where to get from and exactly which ones We need.
What are the 3" screws going into? I assume there is a steel channel that spans the slide opening here?
Thanks,
Most screws hit something solid. The slide has a floor and it felt more like wood than metal but could have been either. I do know a couple screws did not hit solid but enough did I am not worried the rollers will move. The roller brackets have holes for vertical screws but no way to access without pulling slide completely out of camper. But the floor has some kind of frame- wood I suspect between the metal outer supports.
Most screws hit something solid. The slide has a floor and it felt more like wood than metal but could have been either. I do know a couple screws did not hit solid but enough did I am not worried the rollers will move. The roller brackets have holes for vertical screws but no way to access without pulling slide completely out of camper. But the floor has some kind of frame- wood I suspect between the metal outer supports.
I’d be afraid that wiring or a water tank, propane line would be behind the steel frame.
Might be a good idea to remove a edge of the coroplast and see what the screws are going into.
Not trying to pick your work apart but I never drill into a wall without knowing what’s on the other side
I’d be afraid that wiring or a water tank, propane line would be behind the steel frame.
Might be a good idea to remove a edge of the coroplast and see what the screws are going into.
Not trying to pick your work apart but I never drill into a wall without knowing what’s on the other side
Appreciate the concern and input. The Coroplast is below the slide and I have had it off adding insulation for belly and the pipes as well as foaming holes in floor. There is 12 VDC to slide but comes in the end not where I was drilling. I am always aware and check what is behind where I am drilling. Hitting a water pipe or worse electrical wire is just not good. Nothing is behind the areas I drilled. The wires come in to side of one roller. I also wasn't drilling like looking for oil. I only drill about 1/2-3/4 of screw length and let screw do the rest for better holding power.
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