Water heater bypass

[Bustinbeards]

We have some cold weather coming in I was going to winterize the camper. I’m guessing this is the bypass for the water heater. If I were to use rv antifreeze, I would need to flip the switch up inline with the bypass to bypass the water heater.

Next question, If I were to use air would I need to bypass the water heater?

[ChuckS]

You are correct regarding the water heater bypass to winterize... Dont forget:
.. low point drains
.. drain fresh water tank
.. Remove anode and drain water heater if Suburban, plug if Atwood
.. Reinstall
.. Air is fine to blow out everything.. dont forget to hold toilet pedal down and blow that water out as well
.. RV anti freeze - 1 cup down sink drains, shower drain and put some in toilet to keep seal lubricated
.. Some sinks and showers use a Hepvo valve instead of P trap but some anti freeze down the drain will flush any water that might be in the Hepvo valve out and prevent cracking from freezing

I personally blow out everything and the with water heater bypassed run RV anti freeze thru mine... This makes sure that water pump doesn't freeze and crack..

Using air to blow out the lines and such first means you don't use as much RV antifreeze to finish winterize. I use two gallons for my fifth wheel

Some say blowing out is all that's needed so its a preference on your part... In 45 years I've never had anything damaged after a long cold winter doing it my way

[NH_Bulldog]

100% agree with Chuck.

[JRTJH]

If RV plumbing was built so there were no "low points" or "sags in the lines" then using air would be a "sure fire way to remove the water from the plumbing lines.

BUT: Just look at your photo in the first post and you'll see a "spider web of low points" that can drain remaining water back to a low point... Just looking at your bypass valve, there's a 2 or 3 inch rise to the water heater inlet. It's difficult to "push water uphill" with compressed air, so any water left in that "rise in the cold water line" will drain back down to the valve body. If there's enough water in the vertical line AND enough water in the "rise to the cold water inlet", you could easily have enough water accumulate on BOTH sides of the valve body to freeze and crack that valve.

Like Chuck and NH Bulldog, I always use antifreeze to purge the plumbing lines after using compressed air to remove as much water as possible so it won't dilute the antifreeze as it flows into the plumbing lines. That makes for a 2 or 3 gallon winterize rather than a 4 to 6 gallon event.

[sourdough]

IMO the antifreeze method is a must if you live somewhere cold and the trailer will be subjected to that. I used antifreeze once because I thought I should (many years ago) but decided to try just blowing out the lines - that's all I've done for the last 20 years or so with zero issues. Now to qualify that; for the last 9 (whoops! 10 now) years we have been coming to FL so we don't winterize. Prior to that I put the RV in a sealed, insulated enclosure in TX that had never gotten below 36 degrees until last year.

You show you are from "central AL". I don't know where that is or what your temps are there. They are very mild in southern AL. I don't know what your plans are either so if it were me I think I would follow the above instructions and use antifreeze. You will be covered no matter what and if it does freeze hard, or you decide to travel to colder climes, you will be covered and know how to do it. Not much to it both in cost or time.

[Bamabox]

RV anti-freeze is cheap. I don’t bother blowing lines first. I use about 4 gallons. Don’t forget to use a hand pump with siphon to do the black tank flush line if you have one, and don’t forget to do the external faucet by plugging in the quick disconnect hose. I run enough to make sure there’s some anti-freeze in all the tanks. Fresh, grey, black. Don’t want any valves cracking. I think I paid $3.25 a gallon last fall. Go big or stay home.

[JRTJH]

At $3.25 a gallon, 4 gallons is $13.00. That 3 way nylon valve is $19 at an RV dealership and probably $15 online. Then there's the frustration of replacing it, cleaning up the water damage and looking for other places in the plumbing that might have frozen and split.... Antifreeze is a lot cheaper and, in the spring, a lot more convenient to just "flush and go" rather than to spend a weekend finding parts that are damaged, finding replacements and cleaning up the mess...

To each is own, but like Bamabox, it just makes sense to protect what you have rather than replace it in the spring because it wasn't protected.... YMMV

[bgrhrdt]

Originally Posted by Bamabox

Don’t forget to use a hand pump with siphon to do the black tank flush line if you have one...

I used RV antireeze throughout, except I blew out the black tank flush line with the compressor. That should be OK right?

[Lettikka]

I am new so I am learning. I am thinking about how to fill all of the lines with anti-freeze after they have been blown out. Is this done by adding anti-freeze to an empty fresh water tank then using the pump to push the anti-freeze through the system?

[bgrhrdt]

Originally Posted by Lettikka

I am new so I am learning. I am thinking about how to fill all of the lines with anti-freeze after they have been blown out. Is this done by adding anti-freeze to an empty fresh water tank then using the pump to push the anti-freeze through the system?

You don't want to put the RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. Most trailers either have a winterizing tube built directly into the water pump piping, in which case you switch it to the winterize position, insert the tube into a jug of RV antifreeze and then pump it into the system by turning on the pump and opening faucets.

Other trailers have a winterize port in the water service panel where you can scew in a section of hose, turn the knob to winterize and insert the hose into the jug.

But there are a few other things you need to do first. Most importantly would be to bypass your water heater and drain it. Bypassing it ensures that you don't waste antifreeze by filling the water heater with it. You'll also want to open the low point drains (usually red and blue capped lines) underneath your trailer. As soon as they're drained, put the caps back on.

Then depending on your winterizing system, you can open each faucet one at a time until pink antifreeze runs out. It will probably take about 2 gallons of antifreeze. Don't forget outside showers, outside kitchen faucets, and the toilet. And assuming you have a black tank flush port, you'll want to put antifreeze in there too.

Good luck and I'm sure you'll get lots of great advice on here about how to do it.

[dutchmensport]

I never understood why folks blow the lines out first, then add the antifreeze.

If the lines are full of water and maybe even sill under pressure, and the antifreeze is now being introduced, the antifreeze will push the water out, replacing those lines with antifreeze.

Blowing first leaves a void and any water remaining has a better chance of mixing with the antifreeze making it weaker. Still, after the lines pressurize again, the antifreeze will now push out the mixed diluted antifreeze. So, why do you blow it first.

Do the Antifreeze first, THEN blow out the antifreeze. This will also push ALL the antifreeze into the black and grey tanks, flushing them out, mixing with any water that might remain in them.

To answer the OP's question? If you blow the lines, you want to drain the water heater from the outside drain plug or anode rode, and then by-pass it. If you don't bypass, you'll be pumping a lot of air into the tank before it pressurizes enough to push any water. So the answer is, if you blow or if you pink-up, either way, bypass the water heater.

Blowing only, and not draining the water heater will not push the water out of the water heater. The water heater "exit" is at the top of the heater. Once the water heater fills with air, up to that point, no more water will exit, as water will be below the exit hole.

Drain it outside, bypass it inside. Then do your "thing."

[bgrhrdt]

Originally Posted by Lettikka

I am new so I am learning. I am thinking about how to fill all of the lines with anti-freeze after they have been blown out. Is this done by adding anti-freeze to an empty fresh water tank then using the pump to push the anti-freeze through the system?

Here's my Winterization Checklist. You'll need to adjust it for your particular trailer. The only thing I use compressed air for is the black tank flush line because it's easier than trying to syphon RV antifreeze through that line. For everything else I just use the water pump and RV antifreeze.

Good luck and happy RVing.



Winterize

2 gallons RV antifreeze
Blow out Black tank flush with 35 psi
Fully drain all black & grey tanks
Turn Water Pump Off
Drain Fresh Water tank and close drain valve
Place water heater to “bypass” position
Remove anode rod and drain water heater
Open hot and cold low point drains and re-cap
Switch to “Winterize” position
Place winterizing hose in RV antifreeze jug
Turn on water pump
Open faucets:
Kitchen sink H&C
Washing machine H&C
Shower H&C
Bath sink H&C
Toilet
Outside Shower H&C
Return valve at water pump from “Winterize” to “Normal” position
Turn water pump off
Pour RV antifreeze in drains (kitchen sink, shower, bathroom sink & toilet bowl)
Keep water heater valve in “bypass” position



De-Winterize


Do not replace anode rod in water heater yet
Check water heater in “bypass” position
Fill fresh water tank
Turn on water pump
Turn on water and open faucets one at a time until clear:
Kitchen H&C
Washer H&C
Bath Sink H&C
Shower H&C
Toilet
Outside Shower H&C
Remove Water Heater compartment cover
With plug out of water heater, turn water heater valve to “Normal” for a few seconds to flush
Return Water Heater to bypass position
Flush Water heater with wand to remove sediment
Replace anode plug in water heater
Place water heater to “Normal” position (pump runs as it fills water heater)
Bleed air out of hot water line at faucet

[ChuckS]

I use air first mainly because I am cheap and don't want to buy 4 to 6 gallons of RV anti freeze... It also gives the wife something to do and help me winterize.. She likes to be part of everything...

At almost 68 we have time to spare and aren't in a hurry these days so we do the air then anti freeze method..

I blow out the bulk of the water and then I only use two gallons for my fifth wheel... Lots of water lines including for the washer...

Tis a personal choice... I am glad I do not have a stupid ice maker to mess with..

[JRTJH]

I do the same as Chuck. Blow out the lines, start "empty" and refill them with antifreeze, then store for the winter.

My "logic" (for what it's worth) is this: Fill a bowl full of water, then put it in the sink and start pouring vinegar into the bowl. How much would "run over the sides" before you have all the water out of the bowl and only vinegar left in the bowl???

To me, it's the same with water lines in an RV. If you start with them "full of water", how much antifreeze will "dilute the water as it pushes it out of the lines" before all the water is finally out of the lines....

Now, if there was a "plug between the water and the antifreeze" so they didn't mix, once the plug reached a faucet, it's all antifreeze behind it. BUT..... ain't no plugs in plumbing lines to keep things separate....

So, in my "logic", since I'm cheap, I start with empty lines so the antifreeze doesn't dilute with water as it flows through the lines... YMMV and that's why you do it your way and I do it my way.....

[flybouy]

I also use compressed air followed by antifreeze. I theorize that the water and antifreeze mix because in the past I used antifreeze only and the water would start turning a very light shade of pink before turning the darker color of the antifreeze. I used up to 6 or 7 gallons before I was satisfied with the results.

Draining, then blowing out the lines requires about 2 1/2 gallons. Been working this way for me for several decades. If I see any emperial evidence of a better way then I'll reassess my method. Otherwise, do what works for you and I'll do what works for me. As for a "proper or correct" method show me some evidence other than "my way is best". JMHO

[JDDilly]

I only use air to blow out the lines. I started this about 15 years ago and have never had an issue. I do have an ice maker and the first year the valve cracked. After that, I pull out the refrigerator and remove the valve and store with other camper stuff in the house. It really isn't an issue moving the refrigerator since I need to clean behind it anyway. works well for us and my DW no longer complains about the antifreeze taste in out water and ice.

[Marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I also use compressed air followed by antifreeze. I theorize that the water and antifreeze mix because in the past I used antifreeze only and the water would start turning a very light shade of pink before turning the darker color of the antifreeze. I used up to 6 or 7 gallons before I was satisfied with the results.

Draining, then blowing out the lines requires about 2 1/2 gallons. Been working this way for me for several decades. If I see any emperial evidence of a better way then I'll reassess my method. Otherwise, do what works for you and I'll do what works for me. As for a "proper or correct" method show me some evidence other than "my way is best". JMHO

This is exactly how and why I follow the same method. No problems across three campers and a bunch of winters.

[bgrhrdt]

Everybody's got their own system. Whatever works easiest for you is the right method. Since the 90's I've always used RV antifreezze, and never used compressed air for anything (except since I got my Cougar I use it for the black tank flush).

It usually takes about 2 (sometimes 2 1/2) gallons of antifreeze. Never had a problem through decades of Oregon winters (and last year's big freeze here in Texas after we moved).