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02-06-2020, 06:20 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Radford
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
First off welcome to the forum. I’m sorry your so dissatisfied with the unit your company purchased. I must ask, did anybody look at the unit PRIOR to purchase?
What are your expectations from your dealer/Keystone? I understand your frustration, and I hope the resolution is satisfactory to both.
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Yes I looked at the unit however it was at night didn't think to look for delamination bulges on a brand new camper. I guess it's my fault for the lack of quality. What I want, is a unit without a bulging end wall, 40K should get that done don't you think?
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02-06-2020, 06:32 AM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,344
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The “lack of quality “ you talk about isn’t your fault. Flaws and such can be very difficult to see in the dark. I’m not trying to minimize your anger, But if I was spending 40K on a new trailer, I would surely inspect it under proper lighting....Just sayin.
Go back to the start of this thread, you’ll find that Keystone has used this type of rear wall for a while and not just the Outbacks. My 2012 has this type and since I am an RV tech, I have seen this construction method used by other brands.
Like I said before, I hope you get a satisfactory resolution.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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02-06-2020, 08:21 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Radford
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
The “lack of quality “ you talk about isn’t your fault. Flaws and such can be very difficult to see in the dark. I’m not trying to minimize your anger, But if I was spending 40K on a new trailer, I would surely inspect it under proper lighting....Just sayin.
Go back to the start of this thread, you’ll find that Keystone has used this type of rear wall for a while and not just the Outbacks. My 2012 has this type and since I am an RV tech, I have seen this construction method used by other brands.
Like I said before, I hope you get a satisfactory resolution.
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Thank you for your comments, irregardless of my lack of due diligence my problem is with the building process and why it is constructed in a fashion that is very inconsistent and aesthetically not pleasing to look at from the outside is beyond me. I'm not an RV tech by no stretch but have been in the construction business for over 35 years installing pre-engineered building systems. Do you think this is the best way to construct the end wall?
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02-06-2020, 10:16 AM
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#24
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,344
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I’m not going to debate what’s “better” but I will say that it has been an acceptable practice for many years and brands.
Once again I wish you all the best.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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02-06-2020, 10:19 AM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOVACRANE
Thank you for your comments, irregardless of my lack of due diligence my problem is with the building process and why it is constructed in a fashion that is very inconsistent and aesthetically not pleasing to look at from the outside is beyond me. I'm not an RV tech by no stretch but have been in the construction business for over 35 years installing pre-engineered building systems. Do you think this is the best way to construct the end wall?
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I can't speak for Keystone but here's my take on it. "Hanging" the back wall as opposed to using a "sandwich" construction is to facilitate the running of wires for the exterior lighting and interior outlets. The "buckling" you see is not delamination but is caused by expansion. I've seen this in many S&B buildings when they hang the siding too tight.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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02-06-2020, 10:35 AM
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#26
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOVACRANE
Thank you for your comments, irregardless of my lack of due diligence my problem is with the building process and why it is constructed in a fashion that is very inconsistent and aesthetically not pleasing to look at from the outside is beyond me. I'm not an RV tech by no stretch but have been in the construction business for over 35 years installing pre-engineered building systems. Do you think this is the best way to construct the end wall?
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I think my question would be if you think the pre-engineered building systems would be 1)able to be thrown on wheels behind a 1/2 ton truck, 2) withstand 50-100mph winds for hours at a time, 3) survive being pounded by a level 7 earthquake a hundred times a day while traveling, 4) survive the twisting/flexing that an RV has to withstand every time it is towed?
All that to say that the end objective of the pre-engineered building system and the RV are completely, totally different and one can't be compared to the other...they're apples and oranges. A couple of notes;
I'm not a RV designer by any means but I believe that Keystone and other manufacturers use a "floating" rear wall to be able to withstand the forces listed above. I've never seen the issue you describe on a new unit first hand but I've read of them and seen pictures of them. It is not the norm from my experience. At that point I would also make this point; as I've been researching for a new RV myself, I have discussed this method with some dealerships that sell brands that do it both ways. Free floating wall - will withstand the rigors of highway travel better and also offers the ability to remove the rear wall intact in the event wiring or interior wall failure occurs; rigid back wall; prevents any bowing or bulging that might occur due to the floating design. It does not absorb and move with all the forces encountered on the road like a floating design and will require the complete rebuilding of the entire back wall should anything occur inside it (my understanding of it).
Hopefully that kind of explains what I know about the differences.
Lastly, your experience goes to illustrate something that has been said countless times on this and other forums. 1) A good dealer is paramount. In my wildest dreams I can't imagine showing up to see a new trailer with a bulge on the back wall that big without the dealer warning me up front. If you purchased sight unseen that is something that should have been discovered by the dealer and provided to you with a summary of faults found prior to you coming to get it. 2) Don't buy sight unseen. This goes for homes, autos, RVs etc. Bad choice. I've bought 2 new vehicles without driving..both, BOTH had issues that I would have found before purchase if I had done my due diligence (auto dealers don't do PDIs). I currently have a deposit on a new 5th wheel. I will not purchase it sight unseen. The GM knows it and is fine with it. It is locked until I can get to it with the agreement that upon my pre purchase walk through that any issue of any magnitude will be reason for me to decline the purchase. I WILL inspect it in the daylight with all systems operational.
None of this is to say that I don't empathize with you and hope for a quick, satisfactory solution. Just saying that there are a lot of things that go into a situation like this. I'm not some sort of Keystone advocate either. I have just spent years trying to figure out the processes and why what happens, happens so I don't drive myself or someone else crazy.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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02-06-2020, 11:19 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Radford
Posts: 4
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I mentioned my experience with installing pre-engineered building systems only to convey that I have construction aptitude and understand the purpose of a floating wall my point is this the best way to build it if issues are destroying the outside appearance. I have a 2" bulge in a 5' area between the windows
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02-06-2020, 11:38 AM
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#28
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOVACRANE
I mentioned my experience with installing pre-engineered building systems only to convey that I have construction aptitude and understand the purpose of a floating wall my point is this the best way to build it if issues are destroying the outside appearance. I have a 2" bulge in a 5' area between the windows
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I think when a failure happens in any system (back wall, fridge, tires, etc.) the person enduring that failure always asks "is this the best way to build it"? It could be a floating wall....or a fixed wall. As I mentioned, I don't think it's normal although I won't be surprised if Keystone says it is. I believe I recall (someone correct me if I'm wrong) this same issue happening to one or more members in the past with Keystone saying it was something to be expected in that type construction. I certainly would not want it on my new trailer.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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