Need to patch a crack

f6bits · 12-01-2011, 05:11 PM

Thanks to the recent windstorm, I have a crack on the back wall of my trailer. It’s about 8” long and pretty thin. What’s the best temporary patch until I take it in for repair next month?

SteveC7010 · 12-01-2011, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdayman

Thanks to the recent windstorm, I have a crack on the back wall of my trailer. It’s about 8” long and pretty thin. What’s the best temporary patch until I take it in for repair next month?

If it is a stress crack, it will continue to grow if there is any further movement. The way to stop it from growing is to drill a very small hole at each end of the crack. An 1/8" or so will do the trick.

If it was my rig, I'd get myself a roll of white vinyl tape, maybe 1.5" to 2" wide. After cleaning the surface well with soap and then rubbing alcohol, I would cover the crack with the tape, making sure the tape is centered on the crack and at least an inch or more longer at each end. Press it down nice and smooth with no air bubbles. The less finger dirt on the adhesive, the better.

f6bits · 12-01-2011, 05:31 PM

Vinyl tape. Thanks. It’s not a stress crack. Something in the storage lot went airborne in the 60-80MPH winds and hit the trailer. Like a thin square frisbee. Thankfully it didn’t puncture the inner wall.

hankaye · 12-01-2011, 07:04 PM

sdayman, Howdy;

The drilling of the holes to keep it from spreading will still be an excellent idea.
May not be stressing now, but once you get it rolling to the dealership it may, get stressed. I'd rather be safe then sorry...

hankaye

f6bits · 12-01-2011, 07:46 PM

Drilling holes makes me cringe. I’ll cross my fingers and keep a close eye on it and drill it if it even thinks about spreading.

**flybouy** · 12-02-2011, 08:25 AM

I would drill the holes if it were mine. While it may not be under stress setting there, it will be while bouncing down the road.

**JRTJH** · 12-02-2011, 01:00 PM

I agree. Drilling a hole at the ends of a crack that is going to be repaired anyway won't increase the repair costs and fixing the hole is the same process as fixing the crack, so no "increased damage" by drilling the holes at each end of the crack. The only thing to remember is that you only have to drill about 1/4" deep. The back wall of all (to the best of my knowledge) recent Keystone products is a "floating wall" and is not "laminated" so it just hangs free. Unless you're drilling at the edges of the window, tail lights, clearance lights or other structure, you won't hurt anything by drilling a 1/8 inch hole as long as you don't go deeper than needed (just clear the fiberglass, certainly no deeper than 1/4 inch.

After drilling the stop holes, cover the area with a good quality vinyl tape. If you're going to have it repaired in the next couple of weeks, then good duct tape would work (the big box stores have it in clear and white) or you could use aluminum ducting tape (the peel back kind) but it will be much more visible than the duct tape. Don't use roofing tape (Dicor, Diseal or Everbond) as it is much too permanent and whoever repairs your wall will have problems removing it. Chances are, if you do use that type of tape, you'll have a permanent discoloration in the area unless they increase the repair area to repaint/refinish where they had to scrape the tape away.

I've seen cracks migrate 18" or more with one "bump in the road" so keeping a close eye on it might prove to be "too little too late"

f6bits · 12-02-2011, 05:32 PM

Ok, you’ve convinced me. I’ll drill a ⅛” hole ¼” deep before I tape it. *And* cross my fingers and keep an eye on it. Any wild guesses on repair cost? I have a $500 deductible. You think it’ll be over or under?

**JRTJH** · 12-02-2011, 05:59 PM

I think you're making the right decision. As for the depth of the hole, don't go deeper than 1/4" but I think that you will be able to feel when you pass through the fiberglass. It's about 1/8 to 3/16 inches thick, so go no deeper than 1/4 inch. Once the drill bit passes through the fiberglass, you'll know, and that's when you stop forward movement. Keep the drill turning as you pull it straight out. If you happen to have any problem getting the drill bit out, reverse the drill and it will back out. You may contact the fiberglass insulation and it might "bunch up" on the tip of the bit causing it to jam and not pull out. Reversing drill direction will dislodge the fiberglass and solve the problem.

As for how much it will cost, that really depends on where the crack is at, what other damage may be unseen on first inspection, hourly rates where you have it repaired, a host of other things. I've seen hourly rates as high as $125 per hour and as low as $45 an hour, so no guess how much. But you'll probably see at least 3 hours and materials. With $500 deductible, at least you know it won't cost more than that.

Good luck,

f6bits · 12-02-2011, 10:20 PM

Thanks. The crack shows me the thinness (it’s definitely not thick) of the shell, so I’ve got a pretty good idea of what I’m in for.

As for the cost, whatever it is, I hope they can get it looking near new so a casual glance won’t spot the repair. Not that I’m obsessed about resale value, but I’d rather not be reminded of the crack whenever I look at the trailer.

**JRTJH** · 12-03-2011, 10:15 AM

I know how you feel about being "visually reminded" every time you walk past the damaged area. On my truck, I "bumped" the trailer/bedrail together and scratched the plastic bedrail cover on the truck. There's no damage to speak of, but a scratch in the plastic bedrail. My wife couldn't find it when I told her about the incident, so that should describe how insignificant the damage really is, but every time I walk past the truck, I notice that scratch... Sooner or later, I'll break down and buy a new bedrail cover from Ford. I think they cost about $40 or so. I suppose, after I replace it, I'll start noticing that the other side is more sun faded ????? What to do.. What to do?

You never can keep it "new forever" so might as well just enjoy it and not worry about a few incidents along the way

f6bits · 12-03-2011, 02:46 PM

Ok, I drilled, cleaned, and taped the crack. I hope it holds, as we have three local trips scheduled this month. Again, I’ll keep a close eye on the crack after every tow.

**JRTJH** · 12-03-2011, 08:06 PM

I think you'll be OK, but as you said, keep an eye on it. If you "missed" the end of the crack by just a "tad", it could keep migrating. If that happens, just drill another hole at the end. Sometimes, a crack will look like it ends at a specific spot, but really it extends another 1/4 inch or so and the stop hole just didn't "get there" so if it continues to spread, another hole, more tape, etc.

I think you'll be OK and may find that after you're done with your planned camping, it looks just like it does now. Let's hope that's the way it turns out

f6bits · 12-07-2011, 04:24 PM

After a ~150 mile round trip, the crack has not spread. Thanks all, for the encouragement to properly bandaid the crack.

f6bits · 01-10-2012, 07:52 PM

I dropped the TT off today. The crack has not spread. Their assessment is that they’ll replace the entire back skin with a rough cost of $1500 (but covered by insurance). Their reasoning against patching is that it’d have to be painted, but being an unpainted shell, they’d have to paint the whole panel anyway, jacking up the cost and effort. Whatever. It’ll sure look nice when they’re done, though, in two or so weeks.

f6bits · 01-31-2012, 07:44 PM

I got the trailer back today. Total time out of service was three weeks (21 days). They replaced the back wall and it looks very nice. And…they relocated the cable TV hookup from behind the license plate (wacky) to just a little below the license plate on the replacement skin. For the curious, the bill was about $1800, with $500 of that being my deductible. And now to test it out this weekend at the beach. Very important testing, I assure you.

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