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06-06-2022, 06:12 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 35
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2016 Keystone Hideout 185LHS
Just wanted to share our first camper experience. We've tent camped for years but with 2 little kids, figured it was time to get a camper to make things a tad easier. So far we're happy with the purchase. It's not perfect but fit the budget and criteria. I wanted something smaller and easy to pull with bunks. I bought it with some soft spots in the very front under the pass through that I plan to fix this winter, stay tuned for that! We've got several more trips planned this year but now my TV needs a new transmission.. Stayed at Devil's Fork State Park in SC. Next is Table Rock then Keowee-Toxaway.
We also enjoyed the propane coffee maker, very nice!
When you guys go to buy parts for your camper, do you just order from a dealer or is there a place to buy online? I'm talking mainly sub-flooring, roofing material, inner/outer panels, etc.
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06-06-2022, 07:07 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,357
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Glad to hear your first trip was a success. Parts:
Sub flooring I would get from the local big box hardware store along with interior wall panels. Interior walls change when the factory runs out of what they have, so trying to match will be near impossible. Exterior metal can come from different vendors, but be ready for high shipping charges.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-07-2022, 04:49 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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^^^ Along with what Chuck said, when it comes to "big box stores," they normally stock "local code approved materials".. In wall paneling, that's typically 1/4" thick 4x8 foot sheets of finished (on one side) plywood or OSB. In RV's, most wallboard and ceiling panels are 1/8" thick. That's literally half the thickness as what's stocked at Lowe's or HD and also half the weight....
Going to a big box store can be cheaper and in many cases, they have what you need (or what you can use as a substitute) in stock, so people tend to "switch from thin to thick"...
Be aware that unlike a S&B house, an RV has a "maximum weight it can support" and every pound you put "on the walls" is a pound you can no longer use for cargo.....
In RV's, weight is not just something to think about, it's CRITICAL to maintaining functionality in towing, handling, safety, reliability as well as looking better or repairing a soft floor.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-07-2022, 06:19 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 35
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Good advice from both. I would like to find the fine balance of upgrading when repairing vs not adding unnecessary weight. I will calculate or weigh the before and after once i get there. I think the main things i will need are sub-flooring, one ceiling panel, and I'll probably re-roof the whole thing while I have it apart, that rubber roof stuff. I may replace the front wall panel if necessary. I may also take that Jack knife sofa out and just install a permanent double bed up there. I have a new skylight on order already and have a tube of Dicor and some Eternabond tape already for the repair.
The good news is I pack the heavy stuff in the truck and all the lighter stuff in the camper. It actually has a 6 lug axle (15" wheels) with a cargo capacity of 1010lbs. (4400 GVWR). Most single axle trailers I looked at were 5 lug 14" wheels and less cargo capacity.
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